Rb25De Belt Change - Timing Marks & Crank Pulley

[hutchwilco]

I'm midway through changing Stagea water pump, belt and idler & tensioner, reason being that the water pump started to weep.

1. I've got sight of the cam pulleys and when I align TDC on the crank, only the inlet cam marks align - the exhaust side cam is ONE tooth behind the mark.

I'm wondering what if any noticeable effect this would have had on the engine or the way it ran? Obviously the exhaust valves would have been slightly behind the rest of the engine.

The one problem I had with the car till now was stuttering at cruise (but it was determined not to be lockup as it showed same symptoms when out of OD) - could this contribute?

2. The other issue I have yet to solve is holding the engine still when I undo the crank pulley bolt. Manual says remove starter but it appears difficult to get to (I'm doing this on a sodden uneven driveway so jacks are difficult) and I don't have the ring tooth stopper to put in there.

cheers,

[KiwiRS4T]

One tooth out is 7.5 degrees so you should fix it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/73824-adj-camshaft-pulley-new-cam-belt/

Try Google for holding the pulley still. I read something about a way to secure it by winding a rope around it and tying it off somewhere.

They all say to use a rattle gun but of course not all of us are so blessed!

[hutchwilco]

One tooth out is 7.5 degrees so you should fix it. http://www.skylinesa...y-new-cam-belt/

Try Google for holding the pulley still. I read something about a way to secure it by winding a rope around it and tying it off somewhere.

They all say to use a rattle gun but of course not all of us are so blessed!

Cheers, I'll get it lined up. Would be nice to have an idea of what the misalignment would do/sound like when driving. But I guess I'll find out if fixing it improves anything.

I've tried quite a few google suggestions - twisted belt locked to the alternator - broke one belt.

I have actually borrowed a 12v impact wrench which would work a treat if it fitted down in the gap. So I tried removing AC radiator, only to discover that even though it was dented and bent from a crash by a previous owner, and the AC belt had been removed, it was still fully charged. Vented freon all over me - not the most pleasant!

MIght try the starter motor crank method next...

[66yostagea]

The water pump is the VL Commodore one. And I would replace the idler and tensioner pulleys also.

You need the touch of an Angel to undo the crank nut. Get a big socket and suitable bar. Place a block of wood across to stop the bar moving and give the starter ONE hit.Have done three Stags and two CA18 this way, no probs. Before you take the pulley off return it to TDC and check all your markings

[Pft shh 89]

way i did mine was just to have it in 4th gear (least mechanical advantage of you trying to roll the car, spose 5th would work even better), hand brake on and got the biggest extender i had onto my socket, wrapped with a rag (so no metal-metal contact) and hit with hammer, still took a little bit but eventually got it undone, note this was also done on a sodden old uneven driveway.

[hutchwilco]

The water pump is the VL Commodore one. And I would replace the idler and tensioner pulleys also. You need the touch of an Angel to undo the crank nut. Get a big socket and suitable bar. Place a block of wood across to stop the bar moving and give the starter ONE hit.Have done three Stags and two CA18 this way, no probs. Before you take the pulley off return it to TDC and check all your markings

yep got the pump, belt, tensioner and idler in a kit. surprisingly local Nissan dealer seemed to have the best deal $315. Super cheap was 290 something but not OEM.

Tried the starter method but it didn't work for me - possibly because of the shitty battery the previous owner bought for it.

Ended up wrapping a strop three times round the crank pulley and ratcheting up the tension between both tow hooks. Worked a treat.

Edited August 18, 2012 by hutchwilco

[0t1]

Crank pulley removal can be done with a long strong arm, put it on the big nut at an angle thats close to the chassis rail and use the starer to spin the engine just for less than a second.