Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking for an alarm system that I can use to alarm fuel pressure, EGT, oil pressure.

Not interested in guages, Just want a system that buzzes loudly and shines a light when something is wrong.

Ideas???

Edited by Tektrader69
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407367-engine-alarms-for-motorsport/
Share on other sites

Paul (mountainrunner on the forum) makes exactly this for a good price, Engine Monitor II

Has a series of digital and analogue inputs, and outputs are lights and buzzer.

You set the warning point for each input. Also has a shift light as a bonus.

Really good system, and about 1/4 the cost of an ecu with dash.

I already have a MOTEC M800 and an AIM dash BUT to the best of my knowledge those three functions are not supported.

Will look at the engine alarm module. Thanks Duncan.

Any idea on price?

Edited by Tektrader69

so the AIM dash doesn't have external alarm option?? Can't you use a pwm on the motec to turn on a light/buzzer under certain conditions? Just seems like it would be a heap of wiring to have the inputs going to 2 devices. I know I can do this with my IQ3 dash

Its pretty easy to install. I do have a wiring table you follow to do it. Plus I'm a phone call away if you have any problems.

The external alarms are really good when you are on track, I built this thing for myself with keeping my engine safe at track days being the primary focus. Thats also why it has the alarm hold functions, external page select and alarm acknowledge buttons (I put these in the centre console on that little verticle surface where your fingers hand when you put your left arm on the arm rest, that way you don't have to look for anything while driving its at your finger tips).

Cost for the unit is $499

Alarm accessory kit $59 (buzzer, 2 stage shift light, alarm light, ack and page select buttons)

Sensors depends on what extra's you need. I have made the unit to be as flexible as possible. If you have sensors already there you can just sniff off them and put the calibration into the monitor. The inputs have been designed to be fail safe and high impedence so any other system will not notice the connection.

Plus you got to love the mapping of Oil Pressure to RPM, and Fuel Pressure to Boost, so you get the alarm as soon as there is a problem, not once those pressures have totally died.

so the AIM dash doesn't have external alarm option?? Can't you use a pwm on the motec to turn on a light/buzzer under certain conditions? Just seems like it would be a heap of wiring to have the inputs going to 2 devices. I know I can do this with my IQ3 dash

I have to admit I havent really drilled down into either the Motec or AIM data to see if they are capable of the alarms I need. I intend to run the CAN to give me all the normal engine measurements the ECU needs to function correctly. I spose I should pull my finger out and read the books. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...