Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im running a faily basic RB20 set up

GTR injectors

Splitfires

Vg30 turbo

Nistune

Z32 AFM

Stock manafold

Front mount and exhaust

Was previously running RB20det Red top cams (slightly more duration on intake than the silver top 248 vs 240)

Made 197 KW (16LB) boost

Put a set of Kelford 258s and cam gears

Played around for a bit with differnt cam seetings was chasing response ended up with 12 deg advance on intake and 0 exh.

Made 207 KW (16LB) boost

No loss in power over the entire rev range and held the power in the top end without falling off like it did before, also power and boost came on a bees dick earlier.

But yeah I see no point in putting a 6 boost on with a 2860, a waste of time really Probably get better response with a stock manafold,

After doing my cams Id recomend it, I had my limiter set a 8200, old set up car would never hit it at the track as the power would just die off so hard above about 7300 like falling off a clif.

Now it Hits it easy may bump it up a bit more :whistling: , and has a much larger powere window above 7100, it got good usable powere up untill about 7900 Which is really drifting.

After doing my cams Id recomend it, I had my limiter set a 8200, old set up car would never hit it at the track as the power would just die off so hard above about 7300 like falling off a clif.

Now it Hits it easy may bump it up a bit more :whistling: , and has a much larger powere window above 7100, it got good usable powere up untill about 7900 Which is really drifting.

What turbo did you have on that made power all the way to 8000?

What's the point of him upgrading his camshafts so he can rev higher when the turbo won't be making power after about 7k?

Nah I didnt a play with cam timinig with the factory cams, was thinking about doing it but never go around to it, then I found a set of cams for a price that i couldnt turn down, so I did it all at once.

My car before cams it made peak power at a little over 6 ish , but power started to drop off a bit after 7k and was toatlly gone by 7.5.

Am only using a factory VG30 turbo

Peak power is still at about the same spot but it the engine does not loose efficency as rapidly once over reved, at about 8100 the power is the same as with out the cams, but between 7 and 8k there is about 20 kw diffrence. Which I find very usefull at the track i just gives the engine a more useable power band.

Money would be better off spent on a turbo, But I dont want want to have my car make more than 220 Kw as I could not afford to run a car with more power due to the aditional cost in tires

Edited by murph

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...