Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im running a faily basic RB20 set up

GTR injectors

Splitfires

Vg30 turbo

Nistune

Z32 AFM

Stock manafold

Front mount and exhaust

Was previously running RB20det Red top cams (slightly more duration on intake than the silver top 248 vs 240)

Made 197 KW (16LB) boost

Put a set of Kelford 258s and cam gears

Played around for a bit with differnt cam seetings was chasing response ended up with 12 deg advance on intake and 0 exh.

Made 207 KW (16LB) boost

No loss in power over the entire rev range and held the power in the top end without falling off like it did before, also power and boost came on a bees dick earlier.

But yeah I see no point in putting a 6 boost on with a 2860, a waste of time really Probably get better response with a stock manafold,

After doing my cams Id recomend it, I had my limiter set a 8200, old set up car would never hit it at the track as the power would just die off so hard above about 7300 like falling off a clif.

Now it Hits it easy may bump it up a bit more :whistling: , and has a much larger powere window above 7100, it got good usable powere up untill about 7900 Which is really drifting.

After doing my cams Id recomend it, I had my limiter set a 8200, old set up car would never hit it at the track as the power would just die off so hard above about 7300 like falling off a clif.

Now it Hits it easy may bump it up a bit more :whistling: , and has a much larger powere window above 7100, it got good usable powere up untill about 7900 Which is really drifting.

What turbo did you have on that made power all the way to 8000?

What's the point of him upgrading his camshafts so he can rev higher when the turbo won't be making power after about 7k?

Nah I didnt a play with cam timinig with the factory cams, was thinking about doing it but never go around to it, then I found a set of cams for a price that i couldnt turn down, so I did it all at once.

My car before cams it made peak power at a little over 6 ish , but power started to drop off a bit after 7k and was toatlly gone by 7.5.

Am only using a factory VG30 turbo

Peak power is still at about the same spot but it the engine does not loose efficency as rapidly once over reved, at about 8100 the power is the same as with out the cams, but between 7 and 8k there is about 20 kw diffrence. Which I find very usefull at the track i just gives the engine a more useable power band.

Money would be better off spent on a turbo, But I dont want want to have my car make more than 220 Kw as I could not afford to run a car with more power due to the aditional cost in tires

Edited by murph

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The SS button head cap screw on the back? If so, good to know. I presumed it was there for basic assembly and nothing more. 
    • Hello, everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR. I have lost all power to the interior, including AC controls, the gauge cluster, turn signals, and windows. Stuff that still works includes the horn, brake lights, radio, and headlights. All fuses, in the interior and exterior boxes, tested good.  It starts and runs fine, just with no gauge power or anything stated above. No warning lights either. Things that I have tested: - Fusable link tested fine - No other fuses blown - Alternator good - IGN switch tested fine - With my power probe, I can backfeed power through the IGN pin to the plug on the back of the gauge cluster, and everything comes back on.    So my theory is something on the control side that sends the ignition power through the system isn't doing its job, or a wire is broken. (I would think that it is the ignition switch that would do that, but who knows?). The ignition relays don't fire (all relays tested good). So what tells them to fire other than the IGN switch?  I would really appreciate it if someone had some insight on this. I have tons of hours into this; I don't want to give up in defeat! I have the HD wiring diagram, but having all those wires laid out like that on one sheet of paper makes things pretty hard to follow.  Thanks for reading, and thanks for the replies.  Where should I look next? Thanks.
    • Install a MAP sensor pre and post throttle. Best data you could have for NA, then play with the bends and/or air box and see how much of inflection is created at WOT on the plot.
    • And gone to a new home  
    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
×
×
  • Create New...