Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

I'm in the market for a GTR skyline. Will be either r32 or r33. Not too sure which yet.

But what I'm wanting to know is what will be my best option of changing it from manual to auto.

As I'm in a wheel chair and this just makes it a easier option for myself.

Also does anyone know who in Sydney would build a strong auto awd box for a skyline?

Thanks in advance

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407479-manual-to-auto-gtr/
Share on other sites

The only people I have herd of ever doing this to a GTR were doing it for a drag car.

I think it would be horribly expensive to do. Why do you want a GTR out of all cars available.

Why I ask is that my good friend is in a chair also. He started off with Prelude and that was C**T of a thing for him to get his chair into. He ended up selling the bastard thing out of frustration. He then went onto a v8 statesman and wrapped that around a power pole. then a supercharged calais. Finally he has got a new GTi golf and it is the pick of the bunch. its easier to drive, easier to get a cripple conversion done (every thing is off the shelf ex Europe) and easier for him to get his chair into the car by him self.

I'm not saying not to do it but if you did I think your setting your self up for a world of pain, financially and in day to day life.

But thats just my oppinion.

Chris

Do a search. There's a company that does a turbo 400 or powerglide that bolts onto an rb26 with a gtr transfer case on the back. Its for dragracing but you can build these trannys to any specs you like. Wouldn't be any more than 5g. There's a clip on YouTube of one burning up all four wheels.

how common are stagea's in the NSW region?

as im from N.Z. and are very common but don't see much around this way,

as sydking said ya only live once , and im on my 2nd chance so im trying to have a car that ive always wanted,

thanks for all the replys tho everyone

We did have someone ask the same question a few years ago, for the same reason. Never saw a follow up though.

I think the cheapest and easiest way to do it is to start with an auto gts4 (32 is the only option in Oz, but in NZ you could get your hands on a 33). Would only be a couple of thousand and has the same attessa system and suspension as the gtr.

Then engine swap to put an rb26 in if you are dead keen for that. About $5k for a good motor plus 3-5 to fit it. Or just mod the gts4 to make 200kw (easy enough, and probably cheaper).

The only trick would be the ECU, you probably need to retain the gts4 ECU to control the auto but that may have troubles running the RB26.....might need to allow for some sort of piggyback computer like an emanage

I remember ages ago reading a mag. They did an article on putting a rb26 into an auto stages.. They was shocked that the standard gtr ecu did actually put out the signal for the auto box and everything worked sweet... Maybe won't be as hard as everyone is thinking...

Well it looks like news is getting slightly better each time.

I've always wanted a GTR skyline. And I now have the opportunity to do it. I have found a way of leaving it manual by using a duck clutch. Which has the clutch system hooked upto the gear knob. Have seen bids of it being used. But I know I'll get a lil confused sometimes.

The only trick would be the ECU, you probably need to retain the gts4 ECU to control the auto but that may have troubles running the RB26.....might need to allow for some sort of piggyback computer like an emanage

It would be worth talking to Matt from Nistune about that stuff.

Maybe a Neo from a Stag would be easier than an rb26?

Auto ECM in my 32 is a totally seperate module, lives behind the drivers kick panel (Is still in there wired up but not used). Didn't think there was any difference between auto and manual ecu's.. Happy to be enlightened.

hmmmmmmmmm............well that changes it abit,

But also does anyone know of any good machinists in Sydney, as I've been in contact with a guy in New Zealand, and hes running a turbo 300z trans in his GTR,

The bell housing from the Skyline bolts onto the 300z trans, the 300z trans is longer by about 30mm.

The four wheel drive unit from the skyline will bolt onto the back of the 300z trans, you will need to have the out put shaft of the 300z trans modified by an engineer (shortened and splinded)

he had his trans rebuilt to handle allot of extra power/torque.

he needed to shorten one drive shaft and lengthen the other.

Small modification to the floor pan to fit the transmission.

but also his gts4 was a factory automatic, so am still in need to know how i would have it wired up. nistune didnt have any answers,

So does anyone know who else may be able to help NSW

thanks all

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...