Jump to content
SAU Community

Matching Paint On White R33 Help


Recommended Posts

Hello, this may have been asked a million times before, if so, sorry.

Trying to match my paint after fixing some rust on the R33 Skyline in QM1 Polar White? the paint i got looks more yellowish then it needs to be.

Has anyone had any luck or trouble before with trying to match up the paint. I need to find the right paint mix. Auotbarn dont have anything to mix and match.

You can see here in the image its quite different. Any help will be rewarded with a virtual potato...

wrong.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That looks like the holden version , serious they have a cross reference to it and the lazy person didnt ask enough questions

I ran across it twice now when i needed a rattle can to touch up my wheels the day before a show

Two places crossed it to some holden paint code ( my car is also qm1 )

It can also be the primer behind it is different ?

Bet on the first one holden colour

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Autobarn has 2 different QM1. One being more darker and one being more, well, whiter. I've got both of them and haven't had any luck in having perfect match. Autobarn's database has QM1 Polar white and QM1 P(some long name no one knows how to say in english).

My QM1 compared to Terry's N1 which is also QM1, seems to differ as well. His one being bit more creamy and my one being bit more pure white. I believe there is something more to it than just "QM1". Also a member on here apparently bought the wrong touch up "QT1", but his feedback was a perfect match.

I'd say do a full respray on your bar and keep the mixture for future reference. I'm in the same boat as you, trying to touch up my front and rear bar, but looks like a full respray of the bar will be best way to go about it. Oh and of course try to match it with your car as close as you can.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are like 3 types of QM1 for nissan skyline!!

It sucks. I just get mine paint matched by bringing in my fuel flap panel.

papyrus white

polar white

etc, so many whites!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are like 3 types of QM1 for nissan skyline!!

It sucks.

How about we all get 500ml of QM1 > meet for a BBQ > mix them all together > go home happy with about 495ml each?

Srsly, my painter had to adjust the QM1 that he made up because he'd learnt before that it varies.

He sprayed samples of QM1 on test cards and compared the test cards to my existing panels.

He said that Nissan has been making QM1 for decades.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't say no to a skyline BBQ ...

This. Terry, organise a skyline paint BBQ. Use the left over paint for a paintball day then we can all go home happy looking like our cars

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The guy showed me both the qm1 at autobarn both had a tiny shade of yellow. Also I was just thinking before that the colour is very similar to a white Holden commodore I used to own maybe I can try that same colour to see if it's matches.

Autobarn lol

They kept trying to sell me the "qm1" crossmatched from the book and i know the paint code for the rattle cans from duplicilour comes up as holden sedan not nissan qm1 the pj number is different they had to refund my money cause it wasnt even close to polar white

My advice go to a car paint store the other guys are muppets at paint matching

My money is on holden colour or early generic nissan (70-80's) which had more yellow in it

Also r34 like mine had super hard paint code qm1 same colour just different mix of clear its worthless , someday I'll grind it back to metal and redo the whole car , its extremely nice when its done but damn its a lot of work

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help everyone. If anyone else does any minor rust repairs here is what i did, i went to KGP here in Emu Plains and they matched the paint exactly in an aerosol can. And i managed to finnish the rust repair with a perfect match. So bottom line never go to Autobarn for paint help :D

here is the result of the work:

Pre Rust:

prerust.jpg?t=1346037979

Post Rust

fixed.jpg?t=1346037644

Edited by GetToDaChopa
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Autobarn has 2 different QM1. One being more darker and one being more, well, whiter. I've got both of them and haven't had any luck in having perfect match. Autobarn's database has QM1 Polar white and QM1 P(some long name no one knows how to say in english).

My QM1 compared to Terry's N1 which is also QM1, seems to differ as well. His one being bit more creamy and my one being bit more pure white. I believe there is something more to it than just "QM1". Also a member on here apparently bought the wrong touch up "QT1", but his feedback was a perfect match.

I'd say do a full respray on your bar and keep the mixture for future reference. I'm in the same boat as you, trying to touch up my front and rear bar, but looks like a full respray of the bar will be best way to go about it. Oh and of course try to match it with your car as close as you can.

Bit off topic.

My R34 has QT1 colour. It's metalic pearl white (silverish/white colour if you get my drift) - You can buy QT1 from Infiniti USA :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bit off topic.

My R34 has QT1 colour. It's metalic pearl white (silverish/white colour if you get my drift) - You can buy QT1 from Infiniti USA :)

Is your R34 a 2000 model or series 2?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just thought to come back and recorrect my remark about Autobarn. I used my QM1 Polar White that I got from Autobarn and it matches my panels. Just sprayed my spoiler and it was a great match. my front and rear bars need to be resprayed cause I think they a commodore white with the creamy tinge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
    • NO HITS PRICE DROP   ENGINE - $8.5k ONO TRANSMISSION - $1.8k ONO  
    • If it has had a code in the recent past, the code should still be there waiting to be read.
×
×
  • Create New...