Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just looking for any recommendations on what I should need to safely track my new gtr.

What I'm really wondering is if it will be safe to take it to the track on occasions with out any sump baffles, or oil restrictors in the head?

Engine has been rebuilt by previous owner, basically everything N1 spec, pistons, crank, water and oil pumps ect. Car has 2860-5's, pfc and is making just over 300kw/atw.

What's your opinions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407525-tracking-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

I run mine (N1 motor) with the oil overfilled to the first hump on the dipstick, no issues thus far running S spec tyres. I dont know what N1 motors have WRT oil control, but if the PO put a N1 oil pump in without doing any oil control mods then they've made the engine less reliable than it would be with a standard pump, as its more likely to starve oil, that is, empty the sump.

And yeah Hado is right, -5s at only 300kw is not great. You can easily get 300 easily with -7s or -9s, which are much more responsive and therefore nicer to pull out of corners with.

Cheers guys, the actual figures are 337awkw on 20psi. Not really fussed on the dyno figures at the moment but pretty keen on some bigger injectors and e85. Was told the tune at the moment is pretty safe, not sure until I take it somewhere else for an opinion.

Cheers guys, the actual figures are 337awkw on 20psi. Not really fussed on the dyno figures at the moment but pretty keen on some bigger injectors and e85. Was told the tune at the moment is pretty safe, not sure until I take it somewhere else for an opinion.

For track setup, here's what i'd do with your car. You don't need more power at this stage.

1. Full drain and replace brake fluid with Nulon Xtreme Performance (280 deg) or better (Motul RBF600/660, but its 2+ times the price of the Nulon)

2. Get a set of A1RM pads from GSL RallySport (swap in for race day, and back out again after)

3. Get an expert opinion on if you're going to have oil starvation problems based on a detailed description of the original owners setup

4. Go to a track day and see how the car responds

If the laggyness is a problem, getting cam gears and a retune for response should help somewhat. If its not enough, then swap the -5s for -9s....

Work on suspension setup/tyres etc. First steps are: fix anything broken or worn out, then mods are aftermarket coilovers, sway bars and attessa controller (esp if R32)

I have genuine n1 block Hks spec head Hks cams ect 2860 it make 515hp at 20ish psi. the motor has had serious money spent on it and goes like a rocket but anyway my question is if you pull them sump plug and shone a torch into the sump would you be able to see an oil baffle if installed ?

I am running (after consulting someone who does more track time than me) a JustJap Autech style catch can, with a drain added to the front which goes in the top of the oil filler cap. It is a very simple and effective setup, running about a litre over is a good idea too. I spent a day at Wakefeild and there was not a spot of oil in the inlet plumping. You will need to do something prior to tracking it

I have genuine n1 block Hks spec head Hks cams ect 2860 it make 515hp at 20ish psi. the motor has had serious money spent on it and goes like a rocket but anyway my question is if you pull them sump plug and shone a torch into the sump would you be able to see an oil baffle if installed ?

Dyno sheet

Dyno sheet

Will have it in 4 weeks time, just bought car off a mate and has been in storage for 3 years so getting a few things done and work away so it's a slow process. But still don't answer my question can you see a baffle through the dump plug hole with a torch ? If your that interested I can give you motor specs, it's big dollar motor. All Hks and tomei and n1 parts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...