Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys ive been saving and have enough to get a 34 gtr with a bit leftover to do some mods, and i wanted to know which version of the 34 gtr is the best. what i mean is if you had the money which 34 gtr would you get ? also not going to keep it stock so it has to be easy to mod if that helps. cheers for the help in advance guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/
Share on other sites

Without knowing your budget, the 2nd Q is of course easier to answer than the 1st.

So going up the scale of Non VS > VS > MS > VS2 > Nur > MS Nur > VS2 Nur > VS N1 > VS2 N1 that came directly out of the Nissan factory, I would go for the VS model (albeit that everything else is ideal about the car).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6501151
Share on other sites

In my opinion i wouldnt get too hung up on which one to go for, i would just focus on getting an accident free, rust free good example (if that is what you are after). as in the future a banged up rusted out nur will be worth less that an immaculate original non vs imo, grade 5 non vs are already chasing really good money in japan.

just my 2c

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6501199
Share on other sites

Try to find the best "overall" condition car you can... in my opinion VS make sense more than base model, you get some nice goodies with VS for not much more money. but condition is more important than anything else.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6501468
Share on other sites

  On 24/08/2012 at 1:04 AM, TM7GTR said:

Considering you plan on modifying the car, I would suggest looking for a clean base model car. Any upgrades to the engine or suspension will trump the models above it anyway, so save some money initially.

This!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6501479
Share on other sites

Whatever you buy, please do yourself a favour and get it checked over by a professional.. I'm sure there is a fair share of Skylines out there that many look mint but could be a bucket of rust. Same with any car really.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6501491
Share on other sites

I would personally get a Nur over an N1 which is pretty much the same car but more of a road going car with the mod cons unless you are trying to save a couple of kg's and planing to do Time attack/ track work, but i may also be biased. if you plan on modding a nice Vspec 2 would be the go

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6502104
Share on other sites

  On 24/08/2012 at 8:02 AM, marcus 34 said:

I would personally get a Nur over an N1 which is pretty much the same car but more of a road going car with the mod cons unless you are trying to save a couple of kg's and planing to do Time attack/ track work, but i may also be biased. if you plan on modding a nice Vspec 2 would be the go

That's ridiculous! You're biased! Oh hang on...I am too...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6502224
Share on other sites

Bang for buck the base model is an easy choice, but if I had the money I'd take a vs2. The most important thing to look for is a clean non accident car

Oh and if you want to know what a clean one looks like, ask gtrsean or Terry if you can have a look at their cars in the flesh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6502807
Share on other sites

  On 24/08/2012 at 9:23 AM, Iron Chef said:

That's ridiculous! You're biased! Oh hang on...I am too...

Haha yes you are!! and if we were talking collectable N1 would be the choice just by numbers made and yours is prob the best example in OZ i'm a big fan V nice car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6503178
Share on other sites

  On 23/08/2012 at 2:28 PM, the3 said:

hey guys ive been saving and have enough to get a 34 gtr with a bit leftover to do some mods, and i wanted to know which version of the 34 gtr is the best. what i mean is if you had the money which 34 gtr would you get ? also not going to keep it stock so it has to be easy to mod if that helps. cheers for the help in advance guys

You have fantastic taste in cars.

I think you'll find it will come down to budget and what is available on the market when you are ready to purchase.

Personally, when I was searching I wanted either a vspec I or vspec II. Was not fussed as there are only a few small variations between these two particular models. I just wanted her to be clean, close to stock (In the hope that she has had an easier life) and bayside blue.

A base model could meet your requirements. Based on your plans, it just depends if you want the factory diffusers and extra sensors on the MFD. You may already have plans to change the diffusers, suspension - etc so take this in to account.

I suggest going out and viewing a few that are currently on the market. What I found when shopping was although they are all R34 GTR's, they all have an individual different feel and personality. Some I could sense may have seen a bit (or a lot) of track time, others were still nice and tight with KM consistent with the age and wear and tear presented.

Dont focus too much on 'model', but more so on 'condition'. And when it does come to 'budget', remember a bit more money wisely spent now on a well presented, reliable example may mean money saved later.

Depending how particular you are, patience is a virtue. Some of the cheaper examples have been for sale for quite some time and may raise a few educated eyebrows.

Hope this helps, good luck with the search and I look forward to seeing the result.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6504997
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...