Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys ive been saving and have enough to get a 34 gtr with a bit leftover to do some mods, and i wanted to know which version of the 34 gtr is the best. what i mean is if you had the money which 34 gtr would you get ? also not going to keep it stock so it has to be easy to mod if that helps. cheers for the help in advance guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/
Share on other sites

Without knowing your budget, the 2nd Q is of course easier to answer than the 1st.

So going up the scale of Non VS > VS > MS > VS2 > Nur > MS Nur > VS2 Nur > VS N1 > VS2 N1 that came directly out of the Nissan factory, I would go for the VS model (albeit that everything else is ideal about the car).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6501151
Share on other sites

In my opinion i wouldnt get too hung up on which one to go for, i would just focus on getting an accident free, rust free good example (if that is what you are after). as in the future a banged up rusted out nur will be worth less that an immaculate original non vs imo, grade 5 non vs are already chasing really good money in japan.

just my 2c

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6501199
Share on other sites

Try to find the best "overall" condition car you can... in my opinion VS make sense more than base model, you get some nice goodies with VS for not much more money. but condition is more important than anything else.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6501468
Share on other sites

Considering you plan on modifying the car, I would suggest looking for a clean base model car. Any upgrades to the engine or suspension will trump the models above it anyway, so save some money initially.

This!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6501479
Share on other sites

Whatever you buy, please do yourself a favour and get it checked over by a professional.. I'm sure there is a fair share of Skylines out there that many look mint but could be a bucket of rust. Same with any car really.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6501491
Share on other sites

I would personally get a Nur over an N1 which is pretty much the same car but more of a road going car with the mod cons unless you are trying to save a couple of kg's and planing to do Time attack/ track work, but i may also be biased. if you plan on modding a nice Vspec 2 would be the go

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6502104
Share on other sites

I would personally get a Nur over an N1 which is pretty much the same car but more of a road going car with the mod cons unless you are trying to save a couple of kg's and planing to do Time attack/ track work, but i may also be biased. if you plan on modding a nice Vspec 2 would be the go

That's ridiculous! You're biased! Oh hang on...I am too...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6502224
Share on other sites

Bang for buck the base model is an easy choice, but if I had the money I'd take a vs2. The most important thing to look for is a clean non accident car

Oh and if you want to know what a clean one looks like, ask gtrsean or Terry if you can have a look at their cars in the flesh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6502807
Share on other sites

That's ridiculous! You're biased! Oh hang on...I am too...

Haha yes you are!! and if we were talking collectable N1 would be the choice just by numbers made and yours is prob the best example in OZ i'm a big fan V nice car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6503178
Share on other sites

hey guys ive been saving and have enough to get a 34 gtr with a bit leftover to do some mods, and i wanted to know which version of the 34 gtr is the best. what i mean is if you had the money which 34 gtr would you get ? also not going to keep it stock so it has to be easy to mod if that helps. cheers for the help in advance guys

You have fantastic taste in cars.

I think you'll find it will come down to budget and what is available on the market when you are ready to purchase.

Personally, when I was searching I wanted either a vspec I or vspec II. Was not fussed as there are only a few small variations between these two particular models. I just wanted her to be clean, close to stock (In the hope that she has had an easier life) and bayside blue.

A base model could meet your requirements. Based on your plans, it just depends if you want the factory diffusers and extra sensors on the MFD. You may already have plans to change the diffusers, suspension - etc so take this in to account.

I suggest going out and viewing a few that are currently on the market. What I found when shopping was although they are all R34 GTR's, they all have an individual different feel and personality. Some I could sense may have seen a bit (or a lot) of track time, others were still nice and tight with KM consistent with the age and wear and tear presented.

Dont focus too much on 'model', but more so on 'condition'. And when it does come to 'budget', remember a bit more money wisely spent now on a well presented, reliable example may mean money saved later.

Depending how particular you are, patience is a virtue. Some of the cheaper examples have been for sale for quite some time and may raise a few educated eyebrows.

Hope this helps, good luck with the search and I look forward to seeing the result.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6504997
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
×
×
  • Create New...