Project Nashzilla: R32 Gt-T Neo

[amnash]

most recent pics

December 09 2011

May 31 2012

When i bought the car she came with:

Megan Racing adjustable coilovers

Megan short throw shifter

Momo Super Indy wood-grain steering wheel

Autometer C2 gauges

Starbo turbo timer

Sirius satellite radio reciever

Autobahn 88 intake pipe and mushrrom filter

HKS super sequential blow off valve

SLP front adjustable arms

SLP Steel braided brake lines

Alpine CD deck and type S speakers

GTR 444 cc injectors tuned with Nistune

Sard rising rate fuel pressure regulator

KTS adjustable upper knuckles

KTS HICAS lockout bar

HICAS pump and lines delete

Cusco front and rear strut tower braces

Optima Red top dry cell battery

Supervision 8000k HID system

GReddy adjustable cam gears

GReddy kevlar timing belt

GReddy front mount intercooler

GReddy Profec B-spec 2 automatic boost controller

Apexi i street edition exhaust

A2R downpipe and de-cat pipe

A2R adjustable upper rear arms

when i brought her home:

had the prelude for about 1month after moving to BC got bored with it pretty fast.

this winter i decided to do a complete rebuild. car was smoking like a mother and will be nice knowing the engine internals

OEM gasket repair kit, N1 oil pump, OEM water pump

before anything goes back in it will get cleaned/painted. first up; intake manifold, throttle body etc.

full a/c delete

first time ever pulling a motor, have to say MUCH easier then i expected.

This is where i stand now, engine ready to be stripped down

spent all day today removing parts and brackets from the engine bay. give it a good clean removing 20 years of gunk and muck.

and when i removed the master cylinder i discoverd something not so pleasant... lol

this leads back to a brake problem i had before. brakes were sh*t, calipers they were seized, replaced +rotors. helped a LITTLE bit but they still sucked.

has anyone seen this before?

spent all weekend cleaning the engine bay and gave it some fresh paint.

BAM:

so that pulley there is completely seized. if im correct, that "should" just pop right off, right? its all black because we used a touche to try heat it up to expand the metals but no luck.

any help or suggestions?

maybe im missing something like a little locking clip or something similar?

ok. so i had fun tonight...

first i did this

after that didnt work with heating it up. we did some of this untill there was no more pump

then we did some of this. even with a 4 foot crow bar wedged in to stop the crank from spinning and a 4 foot breaker bar that thing would barely spin.

then the grand finally!

Painting some more goods

before:

after:

picked up this nice gtr trunk off Shane_Sawatzki today.

the ebay GTSR logo i bought for the trunk is a different color red so ill have to paint it

decided to take the spoiler off to give it a good clean in the hard to reach areas.

found one of the mounts had let some water in and rusted out a bit.

once i get this stubborn rusted bolt out ill find a new bracket and put it all back together with some new hardware and some sort of sealant to stop it from happening again.(all the oem seals and ripped)

this is the two brackets inside the mount next to each other

went about making my trunk as good as new.

got all the hard to find parts from feastauto, exactly what i needed!

fixed up the odd colored emblem with some touch up paint.

before

after

rtv'd the struts to the spoiler to prevent it from happening again, and slapped it all back together:

http://i1044.photobu...ne/100_1457.jpg

Good As New!

#1

http://i1044.photobu...2/skyline/1.jpg

#2

http://i1044.photobu...2/skyline/2.jpg

#3

http://i1044.photobu...2/skyline/3.jpg

#4

http://i1044.photobu...2/skyline/4.jpg

#5

http://i1044.photobu...2/skyline/5.jpg

#6

http://i1044.photobu...2/skyline/6.jpg

sorry for quality...crappy phone pics

little update, went to put in a gtr fuel pump that i bought of a gtrc member and found out that there was a walbro inside there. this one right here: http://www.nissansil...howtopic=295445

the oem gtr flows 195L/H i think? and this flows 255L/H.

heres a side by side pic of the two. walbro looks very small.

http://i1044.photobu...ne/100_1477.jpg

small update:

cleaned the transmission up and installed new pilot bearing, release bearing, and sleeve

http://i1044.photobu.../P110515008.jpg

then noticed this.. dont know how i missed it

theres only 2/6 fasteners holding the turbo to dump pipe

and 2 studs are completely missing.

http://i1044.photobu.../P110515012.jpg

bought a vg30det turbo and divided dump pipe off scred_gts4 and its already in the mail

cant wait, gonna be way better then the crappy dump pipe above^

a week later:

http://i1044.photobu.../P110525011.jpg

pic of the two turbos(VG30 on left):

http://i1044.photobu...ne/100_1699.jpg

just thought i would post how i went about removing the super corroded rear wiper nut

the BEST way to get it out is to mask off the surrounding window, then take a course file and just work on one side of the nut carefully until you can see the threads. then you take vice grips and grab on it the same way you would with regular wrench and turn the nut. it will bend open and fall off.

http://i1044.photobu.../P110402002.jpg

http://i1044.photobu.../P110402003.jpg

http://i1044.photobu.../P110402004.jpg

engines about half way done. only stopped working on it cuz i need a 12 point 13m deep socket for the head studs and all the shops were closed. hope i can find one tomorrow it being sunday and all..

http://i1044.photobu.../P110527001.jpg

http://i1044.photobu.../P110525015.jpg

http://i1044.photobu.../P110604005.jpg

http://i1044.photobu.../P110526029.jpg

http://i1044.photobu...ne/100_1693.jpg

http://i1044.photobu.../P110604007.jpg

so its been 6 months. car is running well with only a rough idle. put a driving permit on it for yesterday and today to get the engine broken in a little and to stretch her legs(its been over a year since on the road). man what a fun day this has been.

first thing to do was give it a good wash. had been outside collecting dirt for a year.

SCRUB A DUB DUB

http://i1044.photobu.../P111209001.jpg

SQUEAKY CLEAN

http://i1044.photobu.../P111209002.jpg

THEN THIS SHOWED UP

http://i1044.photobu.../P111210004.jpg

WHO SAID SKYLINES AREN'T PRACTICAL

http://i1044.photobu.../P111210005.jpg

assembled the fan shroud to the rad today and installed it:

http://i1044.photobu.../P111221004.jpg

http://i1044.photobu.../P111221003.jpg

theres not enough clearance with the p/s pump in there:

http://i1044.photobu.../P111221005.jpg

http://i1044.photobu.../P111221007.jpg

i could just remove the fans and have one big electric fan..but i like this set up to much. so im going to run a electric power steering pump out of a toyota MRII. havn't done much research on it yet but it should be fairly simple. if anyone has any experiance or has found any good threads on running electrical p/s systems in the r32 post it up

got the power steering pump out and rad fits in fine now,

http://i1044.photobu...h2/100_1939.jpg

installed AEM wideband that i got for xmas today, this is where i had the bung welded;

http://i1044.photobu...h2/100_1953.jpg

http://i1044.photobu...h2/100_1957.jpg

wired the gauges so they light up when headlights are turned on and a potentiometer so i could dim them

small update, car is all done and on the road. i have 600km on the motor and there hasn't been any issues so far.

I finally mounted the gauges on my A pillar without the use of zap straps, and thought i would do a little write up. first diy thread so bare with me.

DIY: professional gauge pod install for under $50

things you need :

- gauge pod from autometer PN#23904($35 lordco).

- 2 part plastic welding epoxy($10 c-tire).

- 8 plastic clips($3 lordco)

http://i1044.photobu...2/amnash2/1.jpg

the gauge pod doesn't fit that great so you have to bend it to fit and hold it with tape.once its taped down nice and tight where you want it start drilling 1/4" holes and one at a time remove the tape and insert a clip.

http://i1044.photobu...2/amnash2/2.jpg

only do one full side at a time. i started at the top side because thats the side you can see through the glass and alignment is more important. so after one side has all the clips in lightly clamp the clips down using a cloth not to scratch the pod. and then use the epoxy on the back of the clips. this acts as an anchor and will keep the pod held in place much better then clips alone. when epoxy is dry carefully remove clamps and move to the next clip.

http://i1044.photobu...2/amnash2/3.jpg

once all that is done, you have to trim the clips on the bottom side so that the oem clips will still be able to engage.

http://i1044.photobu...2/amnash2/4.jpg

and thats it, your pod will now be a part of the a pillar trim and is rock solid.

http://i1044.photobu...2/amnash2/5.jpg

http://i1044.photobu...2/amnash2/6.jpg

http://i1044.photobu...2/amnash2/7.jpg

met up with a friend and his silvia went for a small cruise through bendy back roads

http://i1044.photobu...20604-00421.jpg

http://i1044.photobu...06-04123307.jpg

finally did something with all these.

http://i1044.photobu...06-04095756.jpg

so i had an alignment done today and the car is handleing a lot better now and wheel isnt shaking like crazy. took it on an empty highway and had it at about 200 for a couple seconds, man this car is rock solid. so im happy with the alignment.

but.. after that good stretch down the highway i started to hear a noise under the hood and pulled over.

i then limped it all the way home not going over 2000rpm and its sitting in my garage now. ill be pulling apart a few things trying to find it. im hoping its a loose bold under the valve cover..

some pictures JDMsource sent me before it was shipping out.

http://i1044.photobu...h2/IMG_3451.jpg

http://i1044.photobu...h2/IMG_3462.jpg

12-June-

picked it up and brought it home.

http://i1044.photobu...06-12150141.jpg

http://i1044.photobu...h2/100_2147.jpg

gave everything a good once over. and removed stuff not needed/mounted transmission ready for install

http://i1044.photobu...h2/100_2256.jpg

13-June-

installing engine

http://i1044.photobu...20613-00432.jpg

http://i1044.photobu...06-13190436.jpg

http://i1044.photobu...06-13200134.jpg

I've been slacking on keeping this updated. but the swap is all done. only thing I've left for the winter is the transmission wiring and the speedo. but i just wanted to have it on the road for the rest of the summer/fall.

had to buy an aftermarket drive shaft for the rb25(non neo) transmission.

http://i1044.photobu...07-12101539.jpg

here's what my kitchen floor looked like for a week while i was tackling the wiring. it sat there for a while why i did research and once i found little info on how to do the wiring with r34 loom i decided to just try and figure it out on my own. so with the rb20 pin out diagram and the r34 pin out diagram i just did one wire at a time. and labeled EVERYTHING.. i cant stress that enough lol

once i figured it out its actually pretty simple. just overwhelming at first.

http://i1044.photobu...07-24225848.jpg

here's a video of the first start up. (runs no problem once you have the fuel lines the right way around)

[amnash]

some parts came in the mail today, a r32 grill that took a year for me to find because i wanted one with no broken tabs AND in gunmetal grey this thing is mint.. very happy with it. and a r34 gauge cluster for this winters project. this should make the interior a lot more modern and sexy.

[nomnomv8]

Very nice man ! So much more rewarding when you know you have built the car all by your self and hear the sound of her cranking over for the first time.

[Ryno]

Very keen to see how you go about fitting the R34 gauge cluster

[amnash]

ya so am i lol i hope i can actually do it..

[amnash]

looks so much better with a grill

[Miguelone]

The rusty crap down your brake booster is due to the master cylinder leaking.

[amnash]

ya thats all sorted now. this build thread has been going for a couple years actually. i just copy and pasted from gtrcanada.com thats local to me since im in canada. but this forum here is the best for info and stuff

[amnash]

so had the skyline out on a drivers permit for a weekend and noticed under WOT it seemed to almost stall for half a second and jerk etc and the turbo sounded like it was almost spooling up way to easy and just sounded off.. so i figured i would change the plugs and gap them to 0.8mm while changing them i found that the boost sensor at the back of the engine (pretty sure its a r34 thing) well the nipple was busted off so i knew that was a boost leak and probably causing all the problems.
anyone know the purpose of it? its not hooked up at all right now and the vacuum nipple is capped

[Hanaldo]

so had the skyline out on a drivers permit for a weekend and noticed under WOT it seemed to almost stall for half a second and jerk etc and the turbo sounded like it was almost spooling up way to easy and just sounded off.. so i figured i would change the plugs and gap them to 0.8mm while changing them i found that the boost sensor at the back of the engine (pretty sure its a r34 thing) well the nipple was busted off so i knew that was a boost leak and probably causing all the problems.

anyone know the purpose of it? its not hooked up at all right now and the vacuum nipple is capped

That's the factory map sensor. Neo's use it in addition to the AFM. How come you have it in your car? You haven't mentioned anything about the motor, it looks like a standard RB20. Or are have you just deleted the VCT and using all the RB20 engine covers and intake gear?

Edited March 20, 2013 by Hanaldo

[amnash]

begining of build was rb20 which was blown and swapped in rb25 neo. so this sensor is pretty import for performance/reliability of engine? i changed the spark plugs and removed this at the same time and now its seems to have lost thottle responce/idles weird. ill have to find another one then to replace it since the nipple where vaccuum line connects has broken off

[Hanaldo]

begining of build was rb20 which was blown and swapped in rb25 neo. so this sensor is pretty import for performance/reliability of engine? i changed the spark plugs and removed this at the same time and now its seems to have lost thottle responce/idles weird. ill have to find another one then to replace it since the nipple where vaccuum line connects has broken off

Ahh I see.

It's not really critical, the car will run without it and you won't do any damage. But IMO you should fix it if you are still using the NIStune. It caused havoc in mine when I started chasing power and I was running the NIStune, as the stock ECU would pull timing/fuel and it couldn't be controlled via the NIStune. Combined with the TCS being deleted on mine, the stock ECU just wasn't having any of it. Ended up going to the Link ECU because it was such a pain in the ass.

Edited March 20, 2013 by Hanaldo

[amnash]

what do you guys think of this cluster?? i picked it up on ebay for a pretty good price. a 260 km/hr nismo cluster with battery gauge for hcr32 it has a blue backing and the one in my car is blue so it should work.

after i bought it, i was trying to find other GTS nismo cluster like this one online and the only ones i could find had the boost gauge at the top left. I have an aftermarket boost gauge and no battery gauge so this is perfect.

I thought maybe some genius modded a battery gauge from a GTR triple gauge unit but then noticed the battery logo is in a different spot.

what do you guys make of this?? i hope its some rare goodness

[RBMunkie]

That ^ Just looks like a GTR dash cluster to me...

But the gauge cluster is odd...
I haven't seen a cluster with the 260km/h and no boost gauge.


But then again - pretty new to this all myself too. lol

[amnash]

one of the guys on gtrc said its a n/a gts cluster they had a battery instead of boost which makes sense.

skym:

"As far as I know, the 260km/h speedo is rare, because Nismo don't sell them anymore.

Battery gauge in corner = GTS cluster.

Boost gauge in corner = GTS-T cluster.

Also grey face = Series 2 R32 cluster and blue face = Series 1 R32 cluster.

What would worry me is the calibration for speedo part of cluster, but that can be sorted via playing with gearbox end of speedo cable. Probably worth it to check circuit board on back of cluster for calibration info of original cluster (should be printed on circuit board).

Also Tomei did make a 300km/h speedo (seen the blue face version on a mates R32 GTS-T).

But these days Do Luck make them for Series 1 and 2 R32, up to 320km/h and displays mph as well up to 200mph -"

[Ryno]

Someone has probably just purchased the Nismo Speedo and swapped it out with the 180kph speedo in the GTS cluster. I've done the same with a 280 kph speedo into my GTS cluster. See below...

Edited April 28, 2013 by Ryno

[ty.tomlinson]

Wow, I am glad to have found a current thread where someone has actually done the same conversion I am doing!

Nice ride man, looks like you have spent heaps of time on it.

What I would be interested to find, is where you got wiring diagrams for the R32 that aren't for the GT-R? I have a Skyline GTE which is a base model JDM rare as hell version that came with an RB20E haha. Pretty sure the wiring is similar to everything but the GT-R but I can't find anything anywhere and its doing my head in!!

Also, if it isn't too much of a hassle, do you know whether there is meant to be a solid red light on the side of the ECU like other models of Nissan or not. I am pretty sure I have wired mine up properly but it has no light on the side.

Am also having a few dramas with the fuel system that I can't seem to work out as well.