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So I've done what you said:

result : a tiny bit better but problem still there.

Just to say, in these tests I got the knock sensors wired to the ECU but not screwed to the block.

here is the map :

http://www.2shared.c.../RB30DET15.html

fuel map with some more injection timing.

here is the log :

http://www.2shared.c...9-04_2139_.html

Something very scary on the log, Full throttle with 0.5bar I take 60° of advance... about 25° when 50% throttle.

I was running always between 11 and 12 AFR, and about 500 to 600°Celsius max EGT.

Some more ideas ???

An update, I found i'm in the end of the load scale when I boost on full throttle so that must be why I have so much timing.

And also looking at my log, I find no boost at all all the time. But in this log I took up to around +0.5 bar of boost regarding my HKS EVC boost controller.

So it means my map sensor is dead... ??? it is the only wires that took hot with the fire... maybe the sensor took hot too... ??

Edited by lolo.37

Map sensor unplugged and guess what : The car works perfectly ! !

The man who'll map my car told me if the car works properly without the map sensor, just let it unplugged. It could prevent for new boost problem when high boosting.

Thanks for people in this topic for helping me. ;)

  • 3 weeks later...

A little shitty update.

Some days after have found the map sensor problem , I put my endoscopic camera to watch cylinders as I knew the engine must have knocked.

I found attached pictures that showed me my dead new forged engine. Lot of €uros spent out... :/

I discovered that my map sensor is still working. giving good values. and this untill the ECU wire. (don't know for now if the ECU plug works correctly.)

the nistune allways shows boost at 0psi when looking at logs.

The car runs bad as I told previously when boost sensor is plugged.

Car works correctly when i disconnect the plug OR the hose. quite strange I guess...

(I tried another map sensor and another ECU)

Another thing is that i have 5° sent out from ECU at idle. And I should have 15° as in all RB25DET's ...

Maybe it has something to do with the map sensor issue...

And I knocked that much because at the beginning I settled 15° on my CAS and I should have setteled 5° as ECU asked for.

So I had always 10° of timing more than I should.

I building a stock internals RB25 to replace the 30...

If someone has an idea for the map sesor and the 5° things... Don't hesitate !

post-86717-0-34064300-1348440737_thumb.jpg

post-86717-0-93883400-1348440752_thumb.jpg

post-86717-0-22422900-1348440766_thumb.jpg

I don't know about compressions as I haven't tested. But I guess they are stil ok as the cylinder aren't scratched vertically.

But the car began to rattle quite a bit those last kilometers. Some cylinders don't ignite often.

My Knock led lights as soon as I get 0.2 bar WOT.

Nistune Consult shows usual things :

1st: that TCS is unplugged.

2nd : boost sensor unplugged too.

Nothing more.

Have u logged gnition timing in consult to ensure the ignition is outputting what u are commanding in the timing map?

The pinging may be now due to the small pits on the pistons causing hot spots.

What spark plugs are u using?

I'm using NGK BKR7EIX

And yes I made a special timing map puting 15° of timing beginning at 1/4 throttle (20 of load) and 15° untill full load.

I still don't go over 3500rpm as it is knocking very hard now. (knock led lights full time at full load :/ )

The result is good because my ECU sends the 15° i asked to the sparks. (consult panel on nistune)

And has the CAS is well settled now, so no reason for OEM knock sensors to modify the timing... HUM... Actually, I know i'm knocking and the OEM knock sensor don't change the 15°... I find that weird...

Maybe my knock led light www.viatrack.ca doesn't speak good... but I settled it correctly I guess.

Or maybe it is bacause I haven't changed the "knock timing map" to less than 15°. the map is quite like RB25neo standard map.

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