Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I've done what you said:

result : a tiny bit better but problem still there.

Just to say, in these tests I got the knock sensors wired to the ECU but not screwed to the block.

here is the map :

http://www.2shared.c.../RB30DET15.html

fuel map with some more injection timing.

here is the log :

http://www.2shared.c...9-04_2139_.html

Something very scary on the log, Full throttle with 0.5bar I take 60掳 of advance... about 25掳 when 50% throttle.

I was running always between 11 and 12 AFR, and about 500 to 600掳Celsius max EGT.

Some more ideas ???

An update, I found i'm in the end of the load scale when I boost on full throttle so that must be why I have so much timing.

And also looking at my log, I find no boost at all all the time. But in this log I took up to around +0.5 bar of boost regarding my HKS EVC boost controller.

So it means my map sensor is dead... ??? it is the only wires that took hot with the fire... maybe the sensor took hot too... ??

Edited by lolo.37

Map sensor unplugged and guess what : The car works perfectly ! !

The man who'll map my car told me if the car works properly without the map sensor, just let it unplugged. It could prevent for new boost problem when high boosting.

Thanks for people in this topic for helping me. ;)

  • 3 weeks later...

A little shitty update.

Some days after have found the map sensor problem , I put my endoscopic camera to watch cylinders as I knew the engine must have knocked.

I found attached pictures that showed me my dead new forged engine. Lot of 鈧瑄ros spent out... :/

I discovered that my map sensor is still working. giving good values. and this untill the ECU wire. (don't know for now if the ECU plug works correctly.)

the nistune allways shows boost at 0psi when looking at logs.

The car runs bad as I told previously when boost sensor is plugged.

Car works correctly when i disconnect the plug OR the hose. quite strange I guess...

(I tried another map sensor and another ECU)

Another thing is that i have 5掳 sent out from ECU at idle. And I should have 15掳 as in all RB25DET's ...

Maybe it has something to do with the map sensor issue...

And I knocked that much because at the beginning I settled 15掳 on my CAS and I should have setteled 5掳 as ECU asked for.

So I had always 10掳 of timing more than I should.

I building a stock internals RB25 to replace the 30...

If someone has an idea for the map sesor and the 5掳 things... Don't hesitate !

post-86717-0-34064300-1348440737_thumb.jpg

post-86717-0-93883400-1348440752_thumb.jpg

post-86717-0-22422900-1348440766_thumb.jpg

I don't know about compressions as I haven't tested. But I guess they are stil ok as the cylinder aren't scratched vertically.

But the car began to rattle quite a bit those last kilometers. Some cylinders don't ignite often.

My Knock led lights as soon as I get 0.2 bar WOT.

Nistune Consult shows usual things :

1st: that TCS is unplugged.

2nd : boost sensor unplugged too.

Nothing more.

Have u logged gnition timing in consult to ensure the ignition is outputting what u are commanding in the timing map?

The pinging may be now due to the small pits on the pistons causing hot spots.

What spark plugs are u using?

I'm using NGK BKR7EIX

And yes I made a special timing map puting 15掳 of timing beginning at 1/4 throttle (20 of load) and 15掳 untill full load.

I still don't go over 3500rpm as it is knocking very hard now. (knock led lights full time at full load :/ )

The result is good because my ECU sends the 15掳 i asked to the sparks. (consult panel on nistune)

And has the CAS is well settled now, so no reason for OEM knock sensors to modify the timing... HUM... Actually, I know i'm knocking and the OEM knock sensor don't change the 15掳... I find that weird...

Maybe my knock led light www.viatrack.ca doesn't speak good... but I settled it correctly I guess.

Or maybe it is bacause I haven't changed the "knock timing map" to less than 15掳. the map is quite like RB25neo standard map.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 馃槄
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 馃珷    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
  • Create New...