Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I am in the process of constructing a "Carputer" and I am struggling to find an easily accessible wire for my 12v to 5volt regulator to tap power off. I don't really want to run a wire directly from the battery into the cabin so I am hoping some one might already have the knowledge without me going over the wiring diagrams one by one.

Cheers

Hey Anthony

Iv'e got a car pc running in my car, the problem is it was installed by the previous owner so I don't really know much about it. The laptop charger is hooked up to under the rear seat to a power supply. Where do you live, since you can come have a look at my car I live in Canberra.

i would not add any new load to an existing circuit. you will risk burning out the BCM. A fresh power feed from the battery is not hard to do and is the safest option

What is the best way to rout the fresh wiring through to the cabin? I can only see 1 rubber boot on the firewall. Doesn't look fun.

there is 2 ways...

i have run a 4 gauge power wire from the battery, inside conduit in the wiper mechanism cavity, along the bulkhead to the drivers side. the big rubber boot with the main loom has a new hole in it, the power wire and conduit passes thru that and is silicone sealed. impossible to get to due to the abs pump, i started from inside the cabin and worked my way back out.

the other way is to go thru the fresh air vent behind the battery creatively..

There is a large rubber bung behind the battery, pull some wire through it and run your wires beside the oem loom so water doesn't enter the cabin. Make sure you fuse the power from the battery and run a direct earth back for a good circuit.

No worries, I'll attempt removing the battery and routing it through next weekend now *weather/time* but I'll show everyone the finished product once done. I was actually surprise with the picture quality I was able to get with a HDMI to composite converter, it's giving me second thoughts about replacing the screen altogether. I still have to disable that annoying safety feature *speed/handbrake sensor*, so 1 solid weekend I should be able to have it done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
  • Create New...