Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Water Lines / Head Drain Kit

OMGGTR

By OMGGTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

OMGGTR Mentor

OMGGTR

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

As a part of my rebuild all the mods i do also require a shit load of custom work to make them all fit.

todays question ( ive searched and found nothing) is...

How have you guys overcome the issue of using a head oil drain kit ( spool one) with the waterlines which run behind the head...

Pics are me holding the lines up. you can see the space from the head ( 10mm bolt ) to the water line bracket .

the only way past it that i can think is either bend the lines which i know will f*k them up... or cut them and insert rubber hose in place around the drain kit... but im sure it will rub and overtime cut into the hose.. :(

i purchased a justjap heater hose kit ... do any of these hoses help my issue ?

any help is greatly appriciated as allways..

cheers guys.

post-53107-0-03918200-1345899244_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-34595900-1345899260_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-82474600-1345899281_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407815-rb26-water-lines-head-drain-kit/
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Forget the head drain kit. Just drill out and relieve the existing internal drains. If the head drain kit does anything it acts as a breather for the sump and this function is better acheived by drilling and tapping a hole in the top of the sump and running a breather straight to a catch can - which is what I did to solve my oil out of the cam breathers problem (along with 2x 1mm restrictors on an RB30/25). Skim through the last few pages of this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page__hl__sk+oil+control

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Forget the head drain kit. Just drill out and relieve the existing internal drains. If the head drain kit does anything it acts as a breather for the sump and this function is better acheived by drilling and tapping a hole in the top of the sump and running a breather straight to a catch can - which is what I did to solve my oil out of the cam breathers problem (along with 2x 1mm restrictors on an RB30/25). Skim through the last few pages of this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page__hl__sk+oil+control

Drilling out the internal drains doesn't really do a lot unless you funnel the leading edge of the top side because half the hole is covered by the valve spring seat.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Drilling out the internal drains doesn't really do a lot unless you funnel the leading edge of the top side because half the hole is covered by the valve spring seat.

Yep that's what I meant by "relieve" the drains.
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Does anyone know ? Or am i the first person with this issue?

You need to bend the lines out of the way and have them loosely sitting under the drain area rather than bolted to the head.

If you are worried about rubbing, put a slit down some fuel hose and cover the steel line where it touches. There is not a lot else you can do, that setup is designed for race applications and assumes you won't be using the standard crap back there

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Is there a kit u can buy that replaces that junk i really dislike it so messy

Not that I know of.

It's just water and boost. You can run vacuum hose to replace the boost but the water line will probably need to be braid or similar as it will need to go into the turbos directly

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

From their facebook page.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/575130_375235542513766_80282491_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/485110_340008556036465_1137789783_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/306044_340008606036460_1294723610_n.jpg

Maybe they are not on the market yet. Their website hasn't got them listed. But its possible they are available just not online yet.

Ring Andrew and ask.

disco_potatoe Rising Star

disco_potatoe

Posted
Posted

i have the same problem on my rb25det, i have been trying to think of a way around it.

does anyone know if the line has to be on a fall, as in letting the water flow down into the turbo? or is it ok to use just rubber hose and bend it around head drain kit. i have lewis engine drain kit.

please help.

  • 8 months later...
$$slowmedown Mentor

$$slowmedown

Posted
Posted

All good guys proud owner of their first drain kit how mad ill show a pic with pipes once fitted

Keen to see/hear how you went this mate...

I am currently looking at the Nitto product

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • WARLORD
      injectors top feed for sale

      By WARLORD · Posted

      Deatschwerks 1800cc sold
    • GTSBoy
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • GTSBoy
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
×
×
  • Create New...