R32 GTR Engine Removal - Advice Needed

[GTR-Ben]

RB30 is one option, but you must remember that there is a bit of time involved in drilling the head bolts and setting it all up.

Considering you have to replace all the bearings in the RB26 it may be an option.

Need to make sure he has everything cleaned properly. Head and Block. It's a pain in the ass when the engine has ceramic contamination.

I think the person who replaced the turbos before should have checked the engine.. as installing new turbos on a car that is contaminated can just eat the bearings in the turbos and they will be stuffed also..

[KamikazeR33]

cleaning all the engine parts with solvent is just half the fun!

[Jay95R33]

Thanks Ben - I'll make sure I tell him about that. No use putting new turbo's on if they are gunna stuff up in 6 months..

[GTR-Ben]

Yeah be a nice engine when it's all rebuilt etc though

[vspec2]

Hi I've just taken my engine out of my car and I dropped it out from the bottom with the gear box attached. The plenum was a pain to take out as it doesn't clear the hicas components when you drop it down. Its so much easier if you have access to a hoist. If you need help let me know as i live in Canberra too.

cheers

[R32_GTS4T]

Hey guys...well, as Jay said, no dramas getting it out through the top... The top two bolts on the bell housing are easy enough if you can get together 4 12" extension bars (yes, you need 4 feet to reach them from above and behind the gearbox). Turns out that the starter motor is easy if you have a set of good ratchet spanners (best $55 I've spent). I've stripped the block and head - the verdict, pistons, rings, etc fine apart from the spun bigend bearing on number 6 The conrod is stuffed, and the crank should be ok with a grind, but I should know for sure tomorrow... Also need a new oil squirter for number 6 as the piston knocked it clean off.

[R32_GTS4T]

Now the fun part...I was thinking of sticking with the RB26 block, although I need to bore it, and machine the crank, and get another rod...and as Jay said, it'll get a set of forgies (that post about the Wiseco's looks good), and an oil pan/pickup upgrade, and the bottom end balanced. I'd say that it'll need at least a 0.5mm bore, maybe more...

So, with all that, and the new pair of R34N1's bolted to it (can't wait to see how they go), adjustable cam gears, dumps (to go on at the same time) and the 3.5" zorst...what should I do about the comp ratio, etc? Should I go with the Wiseco pistons and a 1.2mm head gasket to keep the compression up or should I drop it a bit?

I've been running 14.4psi, but with the new turbo's, etc I know I'm gonna want at least 18...with stock injectors, ecu, etc, should I be able to run 18?

I'll probably do some more mods down the track, if necessary, like injectors/pump/reg and/or ecu, but I'm not sure wich way to go. Anyone have any suggestions?

[GDZ1LA]

old post but....

i wana remove a r32 gtr engine and box together,

i understand i can cut out the top radiator support, so the box and engine comes stright out? its used for racing and WILL blow up again so cutting the support out is no problem,

is that all i cut? the lower one is ok? how wide does this cut have 2 be? to allow for engine to get through?

also do i only need to drain tranfer box oil? or gearbox iswell? (i dont want to unlss i have 2)

[wrxhoon]

You dont have to cut anything it all fis out .if you dont draind the oils out its going pour out the rear when the whole thing is tilted .

[Duncan]

You dont have to cut anything it all fis out .if you dont draind the oils out its going pour out the rear when the whole thing is tilted .

umm which fluids will pour out when you tilt it? The ATESSA fluid has to go for sure since the line is in the back of the gearbox and has to be undone, but isn't everything else sealed? I took my engine out full (not gb tho)

[GDZ1LA]

umm which fluids will pour out when you tilt it?  The ATESSA fluid has to go for sure since the line is in the back of the gearbox and has to be undone, but isn't everything else sealed?  I took my engine out full (not gb tho)

yea thats what i thought maybee they have 2wd skylines?

transfer box - totally sealed, breather?

gearbox - totally sealed bar the breather

front dift - totally sealed bar the breather

even engine oil - sealed but has been removed

the only thing is when i take the hydrallic line from 4wd acuator that leaks (ATESSA fluid )

[GTR-Ben]

yea thats what i thought maybee they have 2wd skylines?  

transfer box - totally sealed, breather?

gearbox - totally sealed bar the breather

front dift  - totally sealed bar the breather

even engine oil - sealed but has been removed

the only thing is when i take the hydrallic line from 4wd acuator that leaks (ATESSA fluid )

Transfer may leak as you can't pull the box out with the stick still in.. when the engine is tilded back the oil may pour out the gear stick hole.

For the rear plunger, i have a spare one to bolt in its place with the hole blocked.

Front diff leaks a little when the drivers side shaft is removed so you normally drain the front diff.

Sounds like it would make life a lot easier if you pull the engine out a lot.. I don't like cutting cars up though and it does not take too long to do it the normal way.

[wrxhoon]

umm which fluids will pour out when you tilt it?  The ATESSA fluid has to go for sure since the line is in the back of the gearbox and has to be undone, but isn't everything else sealed?  I took my engine out full (not gb tho)

I usualy plug the rear when i disconect the atessa pipe . The transfer case will leak from the gear selector and the g/box from the rear seal so i drain them .

Front diff no probs beacause i leave the drive shaft in place .

Engine oil will probably be ok but i always drain it ( i'm going to have to drain it to rebuild ) .

[GDZ1LA]

i removed engine yesterday, i cut down the radiator support (if i had 2 people or a better crane this dosnt need doing) but otherwise it helpet alot,

no gearbox oils leaked at all even with a 45deg lean on engine, front diff right axel gave me lots of grefe, after hiring a ball joint splitterand pulling out axel (at leasted the dont have pins like subarus) it locked back in, after 30 min of juggiling i relised this, then it came stright out, ps unplug your ps solidnoid and the ps switch at front of engine lol, its now on stand for 1st time, poped gbox off, bugger!! a std organic clutch, recently relined with heat damage (from the t88)(muiltiplate wanted,)

my ps line behind streeing rack has suffered iswell and will need replaceing, next time ill undoo and tie back below sub frame,