Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just thought I'd get everyones opinions on upgrades stages for the R33 GTR V-spec.

I have put these stages together so that I can spead my costs, have no massive outlay in one hit, not to repeat labour or parts and still have maximum power for each upgrade

Any comments or changes would be great.

95+ Nissan Skyline R33 GTR V-Spec

STAGE 1.

Apexi Air Filter Kit

HKS Cam Gears Set

Apexi AVC-R

Apexi Power FC

Apexi FC Commander

HKS Front Pipes

HKS Extention Kit

Z32 AFM's

STAGE 1a.

Nismo G Max Twin Plate Clutch

STAGE 2.

Nismo 660+HP Fuel Pump

Sard 700cc Injectors

HKS GT-SS or GT2530 Turbo Kit

STAGE 3.

HKS Oil Cooler Kit

HKS Intercooler Kit

Nismo 320Km Combo Meter

Cheers,

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40798-gtr-upgrade-stages/
Share on other sites

Thats a fairly pricey stage 1 you have there.

Generally a stage 1 type upgrade would include a cat back exhaust, pod filters and some cam gears.

I will be interested to see how this progresses as its very similar to my modification plan.

Nick

My opinions:-

i) replace the element in the standard air box rather than worry about he apexi air filters and the hassle of fabricating a CAI box.

ii) I think you can delete the Z32 Air flow meters from stage 1 as the standard units will have plenty of resolution for that level of mods.

Here's what I think based on my GTR stages....

STAGE 1. (You should hit 250-270 at the rears on 15psi stock turbos)

HKS Cam Gears Set

Apexi Power FC

Apexi FC Commander

HKS Front Pipes - < or save some money and get an exhaust shop to custom some 2.5 into 3in for you around $400fitted

+ Boost Controller - I chose HKS EVC 3 or 4, much better than a AVC-R

+ Hi flow cat back system

+approx labour cost and tune excluding parts $600-1K

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

HKS Extention Kit - < Found no real gain compared to my stock GTR dumps

Apexi AVC-R - < Go the HKS EVC 3 or 4, holds boost perfectly

Z32 AFM's - < moved to stage 2

Apexi Air Filter Kit - < replace the filter instead, and keep the standard box

STAGE 2. (you should hit around 300 - 330kw on the rears on 18-20psi)

Z32 AFM's

Sard 700cc Injectors

HKS GT-SS or GT2530 Turbo Kit

Nismo 660+HP Fuel Pump - < or Bosch 044

Nismo G Max Twin Plate Clutch - Any twin plate

+approx labour cost and tune excluding parts $2-2.5K

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

STAGE 3. (optional)

HKS Oil Cooler Kit - < dont bother if your not doing track work

HKS Intercooler Kit - < around the 300-330kw the stock cooler is good enough

Nismo 320Km Combo Meter - < please add soy sauce with my rice

+ Catch Can - < you didn't mentioned this but its a precautionary messaure

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

HKS Extention Kit - < Found no real gain compared to my stock GTR dumps

Mesh;

This is interesting. I'm contemplating a choice of dump pipes at the moment and recently posted a link to an article that was written (so it appears anyway)

by a Garrett Engineer.

My mods will be:

N1s, Tomei Stage1 PONCAMs, pulleys, 700cc inj, Sard reg and pump, standard airbox w/ K and N, exhaust, tune, dumps (?)

The problem that I'm finding is that no one can provide objective evidence to support the use of either the HKS short wastegate pipe, Trust long wastegate pipe, or open bellmouth type designs; consensus appears to be that of the above the long pipe will be best, but all will perform better than the standard units.

Could I ask what your experience was please?

Hi Scooby,

Logic & tuners (inc mine) says a dump will have it's benfits, however they are minimal less than <3kw for the added cost of $600+ for HKS Dumps, and $1000+for the trust. My GTR has the stock dumps at the moment and makes 320kw on 19~psi. Personally next time I might go the trust as it is a single piece which include the dumps and the front pipe, as the cost works out the same as buying the pieces individually.

I completed in 2 stages similar to that above, "just waiting for my OS Giken Twin Plate to arrive" see my link.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=39742

powerFC isn't needed in stage 1 - im running ~270rwkw without a powerfc, but it is definatly needed for stage2

meshmesh - where are you getting your clutch from? how much if you don't mind me asking

Hi ferni, I thought your ECU was re-chipped or something?

The clutch is costing me around $2K from japan

The problem that I'm finding is that no one can provide objective evidence to support the use of either the HKS short wastegate pipe, Trust long wastegate pipe, or open bellmouth type designs; consensus appears to be that of the above the long pipe will be best, but all will perform better than the standard units
.

Scooby,

Same problem I had, so I took the word of my tuners who have tested it on a dyno, and it seems they were correct. You also said you wanted to go Trust Stage 1 Cams.. were you thinking 256's? As I also looked into the same cams, and after some full on punch ons with my tuners & others alike I decide to go with their advice "again" and not install cams. Here's why, as a general statement related to Stock GTR Rb26 motors, there are a few things you need to consider and they all come back to longevity of the Stock motor. Sure cams will help, but they will add alot of stress on the motor like many things. I've based my tune & upgrades very conservatively, and know "for a fact" that we can get 400rwkw from my exact same set up... dont believe it speak to Emre. So keeping that in mind my tune at around 320kw is quite safe. My future thought is if I choose to rebuild the motor then I will definately go the cams, full house etc etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah I've never understood that either.... And to answer an earlier question, I write the date on open bottles and throw them if more than 12 months old (which they almost always are, because I don't need to bleed them unless I'm changing lines/calipers etc in between)
    • Nah, the one that hit the boot was a big steel locker, around 6 foot height, 4 foot wide and 2 foot deep, empty it weighs about 15kg and had about that amount of stuff in it The photo didn't give a good representation of the actual damage, the large ding on the passenger side was about a inch deep, the one on the driver was about 1/2 inch deep, right on the curve, where the inner boot frame doesn't let you get behind it with a dolly Basically the same issue with getting behind the damage on the centre of the boot We could have filled it all with bog, but my OCD would be triggered every time I looked at it, knowing what hides beneath  As for the locker, I did get the shits with it and put it in the scap metal bin, but, I pulled it out and it is now sitting in the garage at home full of car servicing stuff, cleaning gear and random tools, it's going to pay for it's indiscretions
    • Whilst I typically don't cheap out on things, if I can save some money, like $1000, on a clean straight panel, that gives me $1000 to spend on other stuff, basically free money really 🤔 🤣
    • Is the toolbox that damaged the boot seal the same item that fell on the car during the storm a while back?
    • Who are you to deny yourself? I’ve said this many times to myself and apart from getting what I really want, I go quiet for a while whilst working out what I just did to my savings and how will I afford what it cost, then, next payday…
×
×
  • Create New...