THIS LOW RPM ENGINE STALLING SAGA POSSIBLY SORTED

[Oosh]

Just did the same, immediately better on idle, but the car wasn't 100% cold so the real test will be when i get home and start her up tonight!

Will keep you all posted... oh i apparently have newish Denso pump (haven't checked) so hopefully running it 100% wont kill it.

Seems MUCH better at startup now, but i think i'll give the coil-packs a clean too...

[EVL032]

i did wat they said to do and it work yes but it also killed my fuel gauge i think i rather fuel gauge to work at end of the day?? :bs!:

[kezza]

well, this is all very interesting!!!!

my R32 is doing all the same shit, pissing me off to the max..

cant be good . cause it does it , then i get mad and thrash the ****er out of it...

she is a t the doctors now getting a new..

1. timing belt

2. new plugs

3. fule filter

then after a day of them working on it they tell me it needs 2 new coil packs,NOOOOOOOOOO. just what i needed..

but i know thats not the problem,well maybe the rough idle but not the car dropping off at the lights

i turned up the revs on the AAC thing i think(the one at the back of the planom)

it holds the revs a bit better but it still drop too fast when ya jam the clutch in!! still shits its self.

still want to hard wire the fule pump, that is a great idea..

but i do want my fule guage to still work!! lol

WHAT WIRE IS THE ONE TO GROUND??????? this is the question of the day

please help

[Oosh]

Further my sitch, finally took the centre cover off the other night and fired her up, nice little ligthenng show coming out of coils 1, 2, & 5. I have another complete set of coil-packs from my previous engine, swapped it over and the difference is night and day!

It still needs a little bit of gas at startup, but after that it idles no worries, i all also woound the idle screw on the back of the AAC housing out some as well.

[Scooby]

Anyone had consistently sluggish WARM idle when starting? ie fires/starts OK when warm, but only idles at 550-600 rpm, slowly builds to 950 over about 5 sec or so. Only happens when warm and left for about 10-15 min or more. Can shut it down and restart straight away fine. All usual suspects ie AFM, O2 sensors have been checked, ACC valve resistance is about .7 ohms over spec but is clean etc and AC actuation causes no grief to idle speed.

Cold start no problem.

Thanks for any feedback.

[the phantom]

Have you confirmed that the AAC valve is receiving a signal frm the ECU? I wouldn't worry about the .7 ohm difference to spec. When you turn the steering wheel and activate the power steering does the idle jump up? The AC idle speed is NOT controlled by the AAC but by the other valve directly next to it.

[Scooby]

Have you confirmed that the AAC valve is receiving a signal frm the ECU?  I wouldn't worry about the .7 ohm difference to spec.  When you turn the steering wheel and activate the power steering does the idle jump up? The AC idle speed is NOT controlled by the AAC but by the other valve directly next to it.

Hi Phantom;

Yes it does change idle speed when turning the wheel, I've witnessed this on a Snap On analyser similar to Consult

[the phantom]

Hey scooby...these types of problems need monumental patience to solve....is your car stock or are there fuel/electric/ecu mods?

Another stab in the dark if you've run out of options.....fuel pumps in injected cars have a check valve that maintains pressure in the entire fuel system after shutdown for quite a while. Perhaps yours is bleeding away rapidly with time, or perhaps your fuel pump is worn and the leakage causes the fuel pressure to build slowly on start. Does the pump run for the usual few seconds prior to start? Maybe the cold start cycle with its different strategy is enough to disguise any issues in this mode. Is this a consistant repeatable problem or intermittent?

[Scooby]

Hey scooby...these types of problems need monumental patience to solve

Yes they do

....is your car stock or are there fuel/electric/ecu mods?

stock except exhaust

Another stab in the dark if you've run out of options.....fuel pumps in injected cars have a check valve that maintains pressure in the entire fuel system after shutdown for quite a while. Perhaps yours is bleeding away rapidly with time, or perhaps your fuel pump is worn and the leakage causes the fuel pressure to build slowly on start. Does the pump run for the usual few seconds prior to start?

thought about this but a few things lead me to think it may not be related:

starts immediately when cold, rock solid idle

problem occured suddenly, didn't progress over time

have tried priming the pump and it makes no difference

Maybe the cold start cycle with its different strategy is enough to disguise any issues in this mode.

Agreed

Is this a consistant repeatable problem or intermittent?

Constant and repeatable

thanks for the feedback phantom, I'll keep looking. no doubt one day it'll disappear and I still won't know what it was...I think something is either sluggish, stuck or not connecting well ie mechanical/electrical rather than fuel. there are only so many thing it could be, unfortunately it only appears for a few seconds each day and hence it's very hard to catch...hence your first point.

Regards

[zoom]

ok guys... now i have this problem. sometime while driving my car just cuts out so smoothly that i didn't notice untill i accelerate... i have check the ACC, CAS and ignitiion signal from ecu they seem to be ok!! i need to check AFM, only has any idea of how to check it? anyone has this problem before? thanks.. btw it's r33gtst!!

[knackaz]

unsure if this belongs here or in a seperate thread, but possibly could be fuerl pressure problem. have the rough idle and almost stalling on deceleration at lights etc problem also.

as engine starts increasing boost, say past 4psi, the car starts to surge and go all on/off labouring. doesnt stall and doesnt make a difference whether in overdrive or normal drive (auto), apart from that the car runs sweet on cruising, but hit a slight ascent from 110km/h the boost starts to rise to compensate for engine load due to hill and it starts labouring. is this possibly the fuel pump problem not being able to deliver right amount of fuel?

dont believe it to be a air leak at this stage anywhere, but anythings possible,

so anyone with any more ideas apart from the rewiring of the fuel pum or a new fuel filter (which im doing this afternoon), im more than open to advice

thanks

[zoom]

unsure if this belongs here or in a seperate thread, but possibly could be fuerl pressure problem. have the rough idle and almost stalling on deceleration at lights etc problem also.

as engine starts increasing boost, say past 4psi, the car starts to surge and go all on/off labouring. doesnt stall and doesnt make a difference whether in overdrive or normal drive (auto), apart from that the car runs sweet on cruising, but hit a slight ascent from 110km/h the boost starts to rise to compensate for engine load due to hill and it starts labouring. is this possibly the fuel pump problem not being able to deliver right amount of fuel?

dont believe it to be a air leak at this stage anywhere, but anythings possible,

so anyone with any more ideas apart from the rewiring of the fuel pum or a new fuel filter (which im doing this  afternoon), im more than open to advice

thanks

check your AAC valve and adjust ilde speed, and check your AFM for faulty. test your fuelpump to ensure that it works!

[R33S2]

Well let me tell you about my r33s2 . I bought it through a friend from japan along wtih 7 others that he bought and being the exicitable puppy i was i was keen to see it as soon as it landed beautiful on the outside but underneath car/bonnet filthy as all f*** so he had it degresed and thats when my problems started (I think)

If it rained or i washed the car the hicas would cut out (red light on dash) power steer zero. so i went around the whole elec system and sprayed it with lanosol (didnt undo any plugs as i was told that would makes matters worse) that fixed that problem!

Next was the front parking lights kept blowing (and what little hands u must have to change them f***ers) so trace the elec system for those undid all connectors light rub with emery reconnect, lanosol. Havent blown since Fingers crossed.

Next was the idle lots of reasons but thought WTF i'll get microtech installed should get rid of all bugs, more horses (40-50) but no, idle probs still there after many attempts by 3 different dynos.

And just now i went to 3LIT3 FORS3 or daniel to pick DVD manual for r33-2 and he asked me why i was running two blow off valves. Well ive felt dumb in my days but this was one of those really dumb ones as i thought iwas only running one (after market atmos type) (the other is standard factory on pipe to inlet plenum recirc to front of turbo) so theres my idle problem.

Anybody want a BOV on pipe from intercooler to plenum to swap with stainless pipe to replace this unneccessary and annoying piece of technogy.

But in summing up it seems that all the people here have had problems with

1 dirty parts

2 electrical connections

3 BOVs

So check them all and get someone who really knows what hes looking at to help.

[R33S2]

I should add that is a R32 manual with RB25det engine diags

and i waana get rid of the after market BOV

[DAVE CONNOR]

I have the R33 Auto, and it was wanting to stall @ junctions and slowing down. For some reason I checked the auto transmission fluid and it took 2 litres to get it to the right hot level. Now, no stalling and perfect rapid gearchanges. Worth bearing in mind for all the auto owners.

Dave

[BasketCase]

I have an Rb25 and have read this entire thread. I also have this problem, but I think mine may be a little different, my Idle is 900rpm when at normal operating temp then if I hit the gas and rev it to say 5000 then let it go it will drop to 400-500 then gain back up.

If the A/C is on the car will stall.

Heres the strange bit if im aproaching a set of lights and I put the cluch in and just brake to a halt the car will stall, same if I flick it into neutral and roll to a halt.

But if I leave it in gear till the last second before I stop then put the car in neutral or just the clutch in the revs will happily jump back to the 900rpm mark.

I recently replaced the ECU with a wolf3d and it works a charm for everything but the idle. Im sure its not the ECU because I had this problem with the stock r33 ecu aswell the only difference is it seems to stall quicker withthe wolf and I have less time to catch the revs and stop.

Why is it only if the car idles while moving do I have a problem? can anyone think of anything that can narrow it down??

Cheers

Dave

[ookami]

well you can add me to the list as well, i thought it was cause my cams were too big ... just seems they add to the problem.

[17SOK]

I'm amazed there are so many people with the same problem. I thought I was the only one!?

Tried just about everything... the only thing that remotely helped the idle problem was blocking off the return line - not a long term fix obviously - 100+ psi is not good for injectors.

I will try tomorrow - got nothing to loose I spose... willing to try anything at this stage.

[SUS55]

ok guys... now i have this problem. sometime while driving my car just cuts out so smoothly that i didn't notice untill i accelerate... i have check the ACC, CAS and ignitiion signal from ecu they seem to be ok!! i need to check AFM, only has any idea of how to check it? anyone has this problem before? thanks.. btw it's r33gtst!!

i have had this same problem, especially at the lights when the clutch is in...

i found my problem to be faulty/dodgey wiring to the AFM... i can just touch the wires that clip into it and the car will stall...

hope this helps

[mass_iv]

hey guys i think wat said about the battery thing works, coz mine started to stall only when i installed my system, coz i unplugged the batt.. i tried wat he said and the stalling stopped.....