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THIS LOW RPM ENGINE STALLING SAGA POSSIBLY SORTED

BOOSTMEISTER
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Baby Zilla Apprentice

Baby Zilla

Posted
Posted

Guys,

In case anyone is interested, after driving around to all the ****wit Nissan dealers in the state, I eventually took my car to Blackburn Nissan.

They were great!

Fixed the problem in less than a day and very reasonable on price.

The problem turned out to be the connection for the Air Flow Meter.

Boost on...

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skylark Collaborator

skylark

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Posted
Originally posted by BOOSTMEISTER

Find the earth wire from the pump and cut it and run it directly to a good ground on some bare metal in the boot area......fixed.

I have an R32, the fuel pump entry point on R/H side of spare when standing at rear of vehicle?

Plug connection under metal shield with arrow on top joins fuel pump wires to rest of harness?

Wires=blue w/red trace, white w/purple trace, yellow w/green trace, yellow and also black.

I am assuming that black is the earth? Can I just cut it before the plug then?

Apologies for my ignorace but it is better to be safe than sorry and I would really like to fix my idle issue.

skylark Collaborator

skylark

Posted
Posted

:D:( :( :D :D

Well, I had to take my balls in my hands and do it myself. After I regained the strength in my arms I got to work.

Cut the black wire and earthed it out under one of the screws holding down the metal plate with the arrow on top.

Started car and idle was still a little up and down after I gassing car while it was in neutral.

Took it for a real thrashing on a private road, a REAL thrashing, then drove it around off boost for 10-15mins and came home.

Purrs like a kitten, idle steady. Now I'm going out to give the AAC valve a carby cleaner shower and wave goodbye to this embarrasing problem hopefully forever.!:)

KAOS Collaborator

KAOS

Posted
Posted

STALLING AT LIGHTS ETC. ESPECIALLY WHEN A/C IS ON

I don't think anyone has touched on the possibility of a vacuum leak. It is highly possible this is why the cars are stalling at the lights etc. We work with a lot of skylines and this is often the problem. A leaking BOV etc. will do it but more commonly it will be perished vacuum lines. Just behind the throttle body is a problem area. Just listen for the hiss. See how you go.

KAOS Collaborator

KAOS

Posted
Posted

Sorry to post again so soon, but just a couple of things.

In cars that I have dealt with,

If it idles up and down try Air Flow Meter or Oxygen sensor.

We've had this problem a bit...mostly AFM.....might not be such a good idea to take the mesh out after all.

If it surges when you tromp it but will rev smooth if you ease it....definitely Fuel Pump.

Seriously guys, if you own a turbo skyline get a new pump asap.

We've dealt with a lot of them and the stock pumps always die.

When the cars are imported they have very little or no fuel in them and I think this has something to do with why they fail.

It is so common a problem I think it should be part of compliance.

It would sure avoid a lot of unnecessary engine rebuilds. Leaning out due to a weak pump is real bad news.

We sell them but get one from anywhere.

Go the Bosch 044 good for 650hp

Hope this helps.

Endorean Proficient

Endorean

Posted
Posted

What's the Fuel Enconmy like with the Bosch 044, or does it not really matter with the Fuel Pump, it just's maintains the pressure.

What's the price of the pump as well.

2 things that I have noticed with my R33, first, at idle the Vacumn gauge sits just below 0, would that indicate a vacumn leak? What's the easiest way to confirm that there is a leak.

Second, I took the drivers side kick panel off to check out the ECU, and what was staring at me. 2 exposed wires that were covered by electrical tape. Should I repair these connections so it isn't exposed. (stupid question I know, just wanted to get the reassurance from those more experienced then me).

  • 3 weeks later...
boosted32 Collaborator

boosted32

Posted
Posted

I thought I'd post a reply with my recent experience with this stalling problem...

When my car was allowed to idle it would idle fine for about 10 seconds then the pump would stop completely (no sound from pump at all), then about 4 seconds later the engine would cut out (no fuel of course).

As mentioned in this thread, the pump control module normally goes into low speed pump mode by switching in some kind of resistor on the earth of the pump.

We wired the pump earth straight to ground and the problem was completely solved.

We aren't completely sure of the cause, but there seem to be 2 possibilities:

1) I have an after-market pump and with a resisted earth it doesn't have enough power to run.

2) The resistor circuitry in the pump control module is buggered and not working.

We are considering swapping out the pump control module (located behind the panel on the right hand side of the boot) for a known working module out of another car.

An interesting result of the stalling problem is that we couldn't get the car to idle at less that about 1100rpm. This would seem to make sense as the pump control module has a RPM feed and may only kick in at less than about 1100rpm. With a proper earth the car idles stable at 750rpm even though we haven't been able to tune it at that RPM yet.

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest VuDuDoc

Guest VuDuDoc

Posted
Posted

Now i have a here there type problem. it seems that the power is here and there. rough start in the AM and after that kinda alright.....as rpms increase slowly there is a sudden burst on the powerband. i have a HP pump @255lph/55psi.....wierd

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

i actually went to mod my fuel pump the other day and found it's directly connected to the ignition so it's on constantly, and mine still does this stalling.

I'm getting a bigger pump in a few weeks so i might re-wire again and see what happens.

maximumrpm Mentor

maximumrpm

Posted
Posted

mine use to stall with a aftermarket BOV..i just added a T-piece contector and added the 2 out take lines off the BOVS (factory + blitz) together and back to the throddle body and havent had a prob since...i also noticed that the car ran alot smoother as well.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Nizmo32_Josh Rookie

Nizmo32_Josh

Posted
Posted

i have an r32 and found that earthin the black wire did not keep the fuel pump on but killed my fuel gauge. after hunting for the relay that switches off the fuel pump (near boot latch under trim) i cut and joined two wires (after testing first!) and now the fuel pump stays on with ing. did it last night and am at work now so no real test time yet.

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