THIS LOW RPM ENGINE STALLING SAGA POSSIBLY SORTED

[blacky]

Guys,

THROTTLE BODY.

Get your cooler piping off it, spray carby cleaner all over and behind the butterfly valve and let is soak. Wipe out as much as you can then start the car up and go for a drive.

So much detritus accumulates there over a cars life and it can really affect performance AND IDLING.

My idle has stabilized and i no longer stall on trailing throttle after cleaning out the TB.

Blacky.

Edited September 26, 2005 by blacky

[LastTemptation]

could somebody please tell me which wire needs to be cut and re earthed. i cut the black wire that comes from the pump and re earthed it. it didnt do much, but my fuel gauge reads empty. so im guessing thats not the right wire. how can i find out witch wire is meant for grounding??

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

could somebody let me know.

[lingeringsoul]

Installed my sequential BOV and got the same problem, don't really wanna pull wires or anything, anyone oknow any shops that can retune it at a good price?

the only thing thats bugging me is the wear on the spark plugs, i can live with the stall but just not the thought that my plugs are getting f**ked over

[sl33py]

Check your thottle position sensor. I had weird idle stuff going on too and mechanic is replacing it now as he said it's knackered.

[sl33py]

Replacing the TPS fixed the low idle problem for me perfectly. No more looking like a nooby who can't drive manual or stalling it in crawling traffic! My engine is stock tho, nfi for ppl with mods.

[Guest ErazeR]

I got the same stalling issue with my 180sx sr20det

it is not the blow of valve as i have GFB Stealth and i plumbed it back 100% still does the same thing.

the car doesent stall but rpm drop to around 200 and back up.

can somebody please tell me if i need to actualy cut the negative wire or do i just strip the wire and weld a new 1 to it and make more negative power from it?

thanks

[insu]

I have similar problems to everyone else here, the difference I suppose with mine is that it comes and goes (Ie one week its evident then the car might drive absolutely perfectly for around a month then revert back etc.)

When its bad these are the symptoms:

1)Eratic idle on cold start and warm start, revs between 500rpm-1100 or so.

2)When driving slowly in first or second, the car actually starts to surge like there is a problem with the driveline (there isn't it only happens when the suring is happening).

3) The car seems to stumble, what I mean by this is that if you were to rev the car in neutral it will take a bit longer than normal to drop properly, but when it does you can feel the whole car vibrate from the engine 'stumbling', when the car is working fine, you rev it in neutral and it drops back down straight away and without any hesitation.

4) I notice alot more popping/gurgling from the exhaust when downshifting through gears usually between 3000rpm and lower, car normally just sounds smooth.

I was just wondering if anyone else has any of these problems as well?

-Tom

[Scandrew]

I have the exact same symptons you are describing with my U13 SR20DET in my Pulsar. It's on and off at times but most off than on. It pops a hell lot when cruising off throttle. Boost is very laggy and when driving slow it likes to jerk on and off. It also feels very sensitive and rough to drive.

I have a feeling my idle air control valve is stuffed and my timing is out or there's a leak.

Edited March 16, 2006 by Scandrew

[Craved]

my stalling issue was ECU related.. just an idea to try a swap with someone after trying all these different tests.. (im not reading 6 pages to see if this has been suggested )

went from std ECU to power FC and fixed straight away ..

[33tech]

Nice read even thou it took me bloody hours to read but worth seeing peoples problems..

I myself have the same problem?

First: turn car on ( cold ) it idles and car tends to shake like miss fire

second: i take my AFM out but instead of taking it bits i just sprayed it from the outside? but had it checked with the diagnostic and it came out AFM? unless my afm has had it!!

3rd: changed spark plugs, replaced it with second hand coils ( they looked fine ) new fuel filter!! same problem...

4th: cleaned my AAC.. same problem.. installed blow off valve.. same problem..

so my question is? if AFM is faulty ( error ) when tested. can that cause the car to miss fire and idle ( causing the car to behave and have a fit?

[Scandrew]

Definitely, yes.

[J_Red33]

Hello everyone, well after reading through the dozen pages so far, I think I've determined my issue to be the fuel pump from what people have said.

I have an R33 GTS-T S2 with a 3 inch system being the only engine mod. Before coming to this conclusion I have fixed all air leaks on intake & exhaust, cleaned my afm, changed my boost control back to stock, cleaned the AAC valve & redone my base idle. I have the idle set to about 850-900 rpm at the moment so to help combat the problem. The idle itself is nice & smooth with no variation, something that was a problem before fixing the air leaks.

My main issue is now is that if I try to just ride the clutch or take off without at least 1500 rpm on the dial the car stalls very easy. Once moving I goes just as fast & hard as it should. Also if I rev the car while stationary it sometimes drops to as low as 400 rpm after lifting off, before coming back up to normal idle.

This leads me to believe that the Dropping resistor NOT the Fuel pump control module is the main issue as this resistor is what the pump earths through at idle. Once you are on the move then the Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM) then takes over by giving the pump a stronger earth feed.

What I want to know though, as it hasn't been mentioned anywhere including here that I have looked, is where the hell are the FPCM & Dropping resistor located? Personally I'd rather maintain the the proper pump control setup rather than just chop the pump earth & ground it directly. This solution is perfectly fine, but I'm a fussy bugger & want to to the job properly. If anyone can tell me I'll post up a proper mod once I've found a deacent solution.

Cheers

[J_Red33]

Well I had a Dyno run last weekend & thought it was time to change a couple of parts. So I did the fuel filter & the O2 sensor, since this was a couple of parts that were due to be changed.

Now to my surprise, my problem is 90% fixed, with minimal issues now with stalling on takeoff. I can now ride the clutch on a hill with & even take off with no throttle if I ease the clutch out slowly. It still wants to bog down just a tad if I release the clutch a bit quick, but it is sooo much better . The main reason I'm surprised is that when I tried disconnecting the O2 sensor the way the engine operated didn't change. This probably in hindsight meant the sensor was completely dead however.

I don't know if the fuel pump fix will have any influence now, but I'm still going to try it once I find the controller etc. Will post up what happens.

[The Mafia]

I've turned my O2 sensor off and left it off for about 12 months.

(f**ks my tune otherwise)

[J_Red33]

Well your fuel consumption wouldn't be too flash I'm betting. Mine was up to something around 15L/100km, used to be more like 13. Haven't gone though a full tank yet so will be interested to see how much it has improved next week when I fill up again.

The O2 sensor should help rather than hinder your tune. Sounds like it must be buggered. Spend the money & get a replacement, worth every cent.

Edited October 13, 2006 by JazzaR33

[bubba]

After what? 5yrs? of this thread, NO-ONE HAS HAS ANSWERED THE MULTIPLE QUESTIONS AS TO WHICH WIRE IS THE EARTH?

[stolen_s15]

^^^ What he said!

Which is the correct wire?

[GeeTR]

Rofl, wtf, check the service manual, use a multimeter, faaaark this threads ancient

Assuming the body of the sensor is earthed, check it with each pin on the plug with a MM ^^

Edited June 29, 2007 by GeeTR

[SmittyR33]

I had the same stalling dramas after I got my PFC tuned. Only way the tuner could fix it was by moving the AFM further away from the turbo. I have a GT30 and the amount of air that was going back and forth from flutter was freaking out my AFM. Hasn't idly hunted or stalled for ages at the lights.

[woodstock88]

i have this problem even in with my auto box, freeway traffic sucks ass... (stall, park, start wave, hide head) haha will have to give this a go. cheers.