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Downsizing Rb25 Turbo

sh@un

By sh@un,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

f**k big converters in street cars, make them feel like soggy pieces of shit

speaking from expirence here

I agree, that's why I changed mine back to stock. What I said was the stock converter should slip to around those revs.

Sounds like you need high comp 3L turbo Shaun. :)

sh@un Grand Master

sh@un

Posted
  • Author
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Shaun, lets import a couple of RIPS bottom ends, engine swap, engineering etc at the same time might save a few bucks?

While i'm not really planning I'll hold on to the Stag for long enough to make it worthwhile, If you're thinking of seriously going an RB30 conversion in the near future, contact me for something new that's a much beefier option than a RIPS kit.

Anyone after over 3L, send me a PM.

You haven't even said what turbo you currently have, or is it running the stock turbo?  If so, you have the wrong kind of car

Std housings with one of Stao's cores

1750kg, slushomatic, 2.5L low comp (kind of) motor.

it's never going to have anything usefull under 3000rpm.

Once rolling they are fine but they are fat slugs off the line.

this

Any way, if it is a stock turbo and you find it laggy then it might not have all of its turbine wheel, but assume its fully functional and so's the car then you might consider trade your R33 with some thing high comp NA.

I've had your rebuilt 'turb on for over 2 years now and it's still going strong :)

Works just like standard, so no complaints there.  Electric assist is a tasty prospect tho...

The converter should fix that, the engine should rev to 2500 and boost almost instantly I would have thought. 

Going to a smaller turbo wont help move the whale...

had the gearbox replaced recently and the oe torque convertor reco'd, so pulling it out again to try and get it high-stalled isn't really on the cards unfortunately

Sell it and buy a Falcadore?

Extreme, I know, but certainly a better car for the driving you are describing.

ha- not in this lifetime!

Why not get a proper tune done. You know your current issues you have with it. Having the timing retarded so it doesn't knock uptop or however you have it set up won't be helping anything.

nah Pauly- it's got as much 

spark advance as it needs in the first 3000rpm off idle with the current CAS setting, but obviously aftermarket mgmt would chase down every last low-rev Nm

Anyone reading this know anyone selling a nice-price Wolf V500 ecu? (my preferred choice)

Cheers all.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

had the gearbox replaced recently and the oe torque convertor reco'd, so pulling it out again to try and get it high-stalled isn't really on the cards unfortunately

What I said was the stock converter should slip to around those revs.

You have a laggy turbo that isn't matched to your stock converter, you need a stock RB25 turbo or equivalent.

Be happy with the way you have built it... or just sell it to some sucker.

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

If its been high flowed then you might want to check and make sure the wastegate assembly is tightly shut and pre-loaded. Any leakage around the gate area would affect down low response.

You can possibly run the electric turbo as sequential, its an idea i'm looking to trail in near future. need a spare battery and lot of work on intake and cooler pipe to setup.

sh@un Grand Master

sh@un

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Scotty- Need the car for work

Stao- Seems all good in the w/g regard; The main thing conspiring against me is basic airflow physics

Time for a massively over-driven roots-type blower? haha /jk

Why sod around with Wolf when a quick+dirty VG30 ECU+Nistune will do all you need?

looking into the Nistune option a while back gave me a headache. I'm not sure it's a viable route for an auto S1 C34 (?)

there's also the idea of getting aftermarket management and taking it off when I sell. I have a mate who's a tuner and he swears by his Wolf V500, and they are a very good thing. could also mess with the auto parameters then too

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Scotty- Need the car for work

Stao- Seems all good in the w/g regard; The main thing conspiring against me is basic airflow physics

Time for a massively over-driven roots-type blower? haha /jk

looking into the Nistune option a while back gave me a headache. I'm not sure it's a viable route for an auto S1 C34 (?)

there's also the idea of getting aftermarket management and taking it off when I sell. I have a mate who's a tuner and he swears by his Wolf V500, and they are a very good thing. could also mess with the auto parameters then too

If you want to retain the auto you'll need a Greddy E-Manage piggy backed on to the stock ecu.
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

$300 to $500 second hand - may still be possible to source new. If you can't get a custom loom you may be able to get a field harness I think they call it (loom extender) so you can do the wiring on the banch and then just plug it in.

e.g. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Greddy-emanage-ECU-R32-R33-R34-S13-S14-S15-S-AFC-Neo-/170608137302?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b9099456

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

can't you nistune the neo ecus?

Yes you can but the S1 Stagea has the R33 engine with a bitzer ecu which can't be Nistuned - it has a three row plug and the auto ecu built in and is unique!!

The Series 2 Stagea has the Neo engine and can be Nistuned.

sh@un Grand Master

sh@un

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yar, the S2 has the JECS ecu instead

the V500 can be made to work perfectly with the auto (after the guy from Wolf makes a custom adaptor plug) but it's just the near $2000 cost all up that's the sticking point

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