Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got a leak from the rear of my transfer case on my 98 stagea. Not 100% sure but think its coming from where a certain hydraulic soleniod bolts on. Ive been told that this solenoid operates the clutch packs within the transfer. Im pretty clueless when it cums to these attessa awd systems so help on where to find a heap of technical info on how the solenoid works and how i would go about bleeding it would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408060-transfer-case-leak/
Share on other sites

yes, there is a flare fitting where the attessa actuator line goes into the rear of the transfer case. Those types of fitting can be tricky.

If you are confident get a spanner on it, preferably a flare nut spanner, and back it off a few turns (or even all the way off). If it is off, make sure the flare surfaces are clean and then put it back in tight, but not super tight. Thread tape might help if the flare is not right on both sides, but should not be needed.

In my experience they can loosen up a little over the years, the attessa hose is big and not well supported. 80% of the time this fixes it.

There are other potential problems like damaged flare on the line (you can get a reflaring tool to even it out), and on the xfer case you can actually replace the whole flare casting if it is worn or damaged. There is also an oring which seals the casting onto the xfer case. But these are less likely to be the issue.

thanx heaps for the reply bud!

yeh im actaully a tech at a holden dealership but just hav know idea wen it cums to this attessa system. il giv that line a check but if i was to remove it how would i go about bleeding the actautor and also wat fluid does the hydraulic system use.

cheers

There is a nipple just about there where the hose joins on and actually another above the diff. Fill up the reservoir in the rh side of the boot with any quality atf and then bleed by running the engine and cracking the bleeder open and shut.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Speaking of diverting threads, my second ever NISMO purchase…. I think they look pretty classy and just wanted to share 😅   PS: 1st was the oil drain plug 😂  
    • R12 has not been not available for....decades now. Propane is not a great replacement. (I mean, it's a great replacement, but it is a bit too flammable). R134a being the only way to go forward with an R12 system. The design pressures etc, are close enough to R12's to work. The ability to move heat around is close enough to R12's to work.
    • Out of curiosity, what's the reason for converting? I think @R3N3 might have the Frenchy's kit in the R33? I somehow think of you as the ambassador for realistic and clean street-driven setups nowadays  
    • careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
×
×
  • Create New...