100K Service R34 Gtr - What To Have Done?

[sin-]

Hey everyone,

My new to me GTR has clocked up 77k and it's now 13 years old, so I want to do a major service. Before I head down to a GTR specialist to talk it over, I just wanted your opinions on what should be done. Firstly, at the moment it's 100% stock, and I don't mind upgrading some items if it will be beneficial down the line if I decide to start modifying it. If I did modify it, it would be fairly mild, perhaps aiming for 11.99 quarter mile, but certainly not full house modifications. I'm planning on keeping this car for a long time so again I don't mind about buying high quality parts. I'm aiming for reliability.

After doing some research I've come up with the following. If anyone has any input on anything that doesn't need to be done or anything I've overlooked, please let me know. I've included links to point to the items I'm planning on ordering. I've also done some searches on the topic.

Lastly, can I assume that a GTR specialist will be happy to install customer provided new parts? I haven't gone to see them yet but I plan to after this thread has run its course.

100k service kit

1 x *Genuine Nissan, or Genuine Nissan N1 Water Pump From what I've read the N1 is the only way to go - correct?

1 x Genuine Nissan, Gates Racing or Trust/GReddy HD Timing Belt Which one?

1 x Genuine Nissan Cam & Front Crank Seal Set

1 x Genuine Nissan Tensioner Bearing Spring

1 x NSK Timing Belt Idler Bearing (Nissan OEM)

1 x NSK Timing Belt Tensioner Bearing (Nissan OEM)

$398.20

Radiator Hose Set, Genuine Nissan Skyline R34 GTR (Ex V-Spec)

Genuine Nissan Radiator Hose Set (Top & Bottom)

$99.00

Genuine Nissan Coolant Thermostat (21200-42L06)

$44.00

Oil Pump (N1) - Genuine Nissan - Skyline R32 GTR N1, R33 GTR & R34 GTR (RB26DETT N1)

$363.00

Should I upgrade to the N1 Oil Pump, Tomei Oil Pump or leave this alone?

Oil Pump Gasket - Genuine Nissan - Skyline R34

$11.00

Ancillary Belt Set, Genuine Nissan Skyline R33 GTR, R34 GTR

Water Pump/Alternator, Power Steering & Air-Conditioning

$122.10

Filter service kit (air, fuel & oil) to suit the Nissan Skyline R32, R33 & R34 GTR and Stagea WGNC34 260RS (RB26DETT). There are two filter options:

Option 1 (Genuine Nissan)

Genuine Nissan Air Filter

Genuine Nissan Fuel Filter

Genuine Nissan Oil Filter

$84.70

Do I Need - do you recommend?

Timing Belt Bearing Stud & Bolt Set,

$22.00

Do I Need - do you recommend?

Cam Cover Seal Kit - Genuine Nissan

$77.00

Do I Need - do you recommend?

Cam / Rocker Cover Bolt Washer Kit, Genuine Nissan

$88.00

New Spark plugs - Should I do this? Which type?

New engine oil - let mechanic choose

New brake fluid - let mechanic choose

New gearbox oil - let mechanic choose

New diff oil - let mechanic choose

New radiator coolant - let mechanic choose

I'm also looking at:

Having injectors cleaned

Radiator flushed

Anything else to take care of?

Thanks in advance,

Mark

Edited August 30, 2012 by sin-

[Moodles2]

Genuine Nissan Water Pump, don't bother with N1 unless it's a track car.

Genuine Nissan belt. Since the belt is coming off, you may as well put adjustable cam gears on, but leave the adjustment down the track when you get a tune. Do a search for gates racing belt on this forum and you'll understand why I don't recommend them.

Oil pump is a engine out job, leave it alone unless it's a car that sees the track alot, then look at Tomei, Nitto etc. Don't bother a N1 pump, quality issues in recent years is hit and miss, many N1 failures reported on newish pumps but not older ones.

Cam cover seal is completely unneccessary.

I don't even know what a timing belt bearing stud is, perhaps they're for the cam gears? Is so it's unnecessary.

Cam/Rocker cover bolt washer kit sounds unnecessary as well.

Spark plugs, either coppers if your willing to change them every 5-15k or iridiums for 15k+ (only stock power though)

Engine oil, depends how much you want to spend per oil change. Motul 300V is the topend at $120ish per change, while other proper 100% synthetics are half the price (Edge, GW SynX 6000, Motul 8100 etc)

Brake fluid, if it's seeing the track then one with a high boiling point (280C+) such as Motul RBF600, Castrol Response Super Dot4, Motul DOT 5.1 etc otherwise regular DOT4/DOT 5.1 is fine for street driving.

Gearbox fluid, since it's a Getrag 6spd, you must put the proper fluid in (genuine Nissan or Toyota V160 since it's the same box in Supras). Beware the fluid is expensive.

Radiator coolant, genuine Nissan is recommended.

Diff oil (LSD oil to be exact), any good synthetic 80w90/85w90/75w90 GL5 for street driving or for the track/want the LSD to lock up more then 80w140 or a straight 140

All GTRs come equipped with 2 grenades from the factory, you'll find them on the exhaust side clearly marked Garrett. Ceramic turbo's are not something you want if doing drag racing, especially 11.99's with a big fat heavy R34. It has been reported over and over if a turbo loses it's wheel it can and will take the engine with it.

Know that standard injectors can only support 300kw max (310-320kw with adjustable FPR), I don't know if 300kw is enough for a R34 GTR to do a 11.99 pass, so cleaning them might be a waste of money down the track as you will need bigger injectors for whatever power level is needed to do that 11.99 you want.

[NISSAN GTR]

Here you go mate , my thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/406167-require-r34-service-schedule-100k/page__p__6475410__hl__require%20r34%20service%20schedule__fromsearch__1#entry6475410

[sin-]

Thanks a lot Lance and Mark. I've made a few subtractions as recommended and a few more additions too. I'll keep doing a bit more research on volumes of oils/fluids etc required and go and see a good mechanic.

Edited August 31, 2012 by sin-

[iwanta34gtr]

Moodles has done a fantastic reply above.

Regarding plugs, if you want to keep the stock gap and go platinum, then the code is NGK Platinum PFR6A-11.

[MrStabby]

Agree with everything Moodles says, but would add;

Cam cover seal is completely unneccessary.

They do tend to leak, and its not much work, I'd probably do this.

I don't even know what a timing belt bearing stud is, perhaps they're for the cam gears? Is so it's unnecessary.

I'm guessing this is the idler and/or tensioner stud. You'll be replacing the idler and tensioner when you do the belt. Some have had their studs snap, but i'm guessing those studs may have been mistreated in some way, eg. overtightened. Probably wouldnt worry about replacing the stud.

Spark plugs, either coppers if your willing to change them every 5-15k or iridiums for 15k+ (only stock power though)

CRD used iridiums on my 300kw engine with their tune. No problems, lasted well.

Brake fluid, if it's seeing the track then one with a high boiling point (280C+) such as Motul RBF600, Castrol Response Super Dot4, Motul DOT 5.1 etc otherwise regular DOT4/DOT 5.1 is fine for street driving.

600 is 315 celsius. Nulon Xtreme performance is rated to 280 celsius, and far cheaper. Been ok for me at track days.

[Four - Twelve]

Just posting so I can find this thread again in my records. Cheers