Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just picked up some 'KillerBee' coilovers super cheap, ill report back once they are installed :)

If you're still alive. I am so careful when it comes to important parts, i will always save extra money and buy really good quality things.

What about Nismo? They use Bilstein to manufacture the kits to Nismo's specs

Have you thought about BC's?

http://justjap.com/s...productid=19220

The M35 kit is pretty damn nice and great value for money so I can't see why that wouldn't be the case for the V35 kit

Teins, while nice, are a bit overpriced IMO.

If money is no object, go get some Aragosta or Ohlins.

Edited by iamhe77

I'm having a fantastic day. But my previous comment was just stating that i haven't heard of the brand that you mentioned before. Sorry if it was offensive.

I wrote a massive rant at you. But realistically it's a fair call. The ones I got have reviewed reasonably well. For the price I got them at they are worth a shot.

I would get BC if I was paying full price for them. Good value coilovers

I asked this question earlier today on a V36 facebook forum, general consesus was -

Tein with edfc - freaking wicked really, I would love this set up or KW. If your budget is a bit tighter the BC BR's are the best bang for your buck. Aragosta with roberta cup kit also got a mention.

BC's got a good wrap as being cost effective and good quality.

As for me, poor mans option of Tein s tech springs are probably what I will end up with.

For roughly the same price listed in the link above by iamhe77, i reckon Charles will get them freighted to you with a rear camber kit/toe bolt thrown in - http://g35driver.com...-coilovers.html

Edited by Skylinetragic

Ive got BC BRs in a sedan, got the dampening adjusters at the top which on the rear poke up behind the headrest because of extension thingys saves you taking out your back seats to adjust them. People are truely supprised by the lack of body roll and pitch. Car doesnt squat under hard acceleration.

I did a S**t load of research on the subject a couple of years ago. Found good threads on G35driver

Out of it the opinion is Aragosta, Ohlins, Bilstein, KW, Tein in that order for quality of the above mentioned manufacturers

As for ideal setup & spring rates for Australian roads the Bilstein P9 & 10 were best suited.

I went for the Ohlins as I don't want to be replacing parts or rebuilding them in 12mths and I got a good deal :)

BC's don't get much of a mention

FWIW quoted from G35Driver:

KBee

Coilover: KBee

Style: OEM

Spring Rate: 12K/12K (Swift Springs)

Drop potential: Frame Banger

Adjustability: Height is as easy as any coilover. Dampening for the front is easy, The rear needs to be off the car.

Stiffness: Ridiculous on full still. Pretty comfortable on full soft.

Harshness: You can feel the road beneath you, but you don't hate it.

Price point: These are extremely rare JDM coilovers. They are only available in Japan. @$1200 US

Edited by mosoto

BC BR Series Coil overs, big review on my350z, i have them and track the car + hills and they are great.

Unless you race or have massive money in other suspension parts why pay more? You can then use what you save for sway bars, end links, front and rear sub chassis bracing etc..

i have bilstein coilovers with hyperco springs,i'd say theyre a good compromise for street,winding road,theyre well dampened and the ride is very good but still firm and responsive on turn in.although personally i'd go for something a bit firmer for regular track work.

previously had Zeal Function Xs on another car and was VERY happy with them,excellent for circuit driving but still pretty nice on the road,well dampened,no crashing ride.Not sure if zeal have a kit for V35 or if you have to adapt the z33 kit?

from previous research i recall good opinions on Ohlins and Aragosta also-i think RHDjapan have aragosta kits at a reasonable price :)

Anyone have any idea about the Megan Racing Coilovers?

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=5035&Car_Type=G35&UID=20120903014237180.189.146.222

Been searching around g35driver and cant seem to find a good review of them..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...