Jump to content
SAU Community

Ev's - R32 Gtr - Targa/sprint/hill Climb Build


Recommended Posts

Hey mate

Was nice meeting you on sat! Wish the day ended differently though.

I tried to find u to see if u needed a hand getting the car back home but couldnt find u at all. Hope everything will get sorted quickly! Btw now u can try out the intake headlight.

Hopefully u'll get it down to the next round!

Cheers

Herb

Argh not what you want. No consolation but at first glance doesn't look too bad.

Chin up and good luck with the fix up.

I was planning on being there on the weekend but didn't get a chance to sort my alignment out - bit unstable under brakes, think it might be toe'd in at the moment. Last place I wanted to be unstable under brakes was T1 PI.

Hey Ev.....I really DO KNOW how it feels....

Step 1 = Pick your chassis/panel dude very very very carefully before you resign yourself to starting again from scratch...

Yes your toy looks like it has been "beaten up" but from the photo's it look repairable....remember its a race car and not a "show car"

We hit a concrete wall at more than 160kph..and the concrete barrier didnt move a bit...the cage then absorbed the impact and formed the banana shape.

ie:

The cage moved approx 100mm inboard on the drivers side which broke my ribs on the right hand side in the process... the gearbox tunnel had a very visual 30mm twist in it, the left hand near quater panel had a huge "woof" in it ( even though there was no impact on the left hand side), the intercooler had a huge "twist" in .etc etc etc, I had no other option than to start again... it really was a basket case.

You saw the damage on the trailer when you were over here.... once the alluminium panels and plastic bits were removed it was clear that there was nothing to work with that was straight... hence the long hard road i have been on for the last 20 months or so ( and not to mention the commercial impact...which we wont...) lucky my lovely wife accepts that I have always had an addiction/obsession with GTR's.. ...

post-74499-0-46686900-1392211568_thumb.jpg

post-74499-0-57762600-1392211606_thumb.jpg

post-74499-0-74773200-1392211764_thumb.jpg

post-74499-0-17125600-1392211798_thumb.jpg

post-74499-0-90549400-1392211832_thumb.jpg

post-74499-0-99442700-1392211891_thumb.jpg

to the nearly completed new car below..

post-74499-0-29126100-1392212090_thumb.jpg

post-74499-0-97094300-1392212147_thumb.jpg

post-74499-0-46095700-1392212182_thumb.jpg

Still another few months to go..

Again, if you clearly have no other choice than to start again then do it....however if you dont HAVE TO ,then work with what you have if at all possible cob..

cheers!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...