Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Depends if you have done a heap of mods to change the air/fuel ratio..

After all the mods like full header back exhaust, plenum spacer, ztube, drop in K&N filter or CAI then you can get another 10-15kw with tune i believe..

Your better of just getting 2nd hand super charger - will cost similar to changing all the above but you will have way more power..

What exactly is a 'first tune'?

Without the addition of a full replacement ECU (like a PowerFC), piggy-back air/fuel computer (like an Apexi AFC NEO) wired into your ECU, full-on piggy-back ECU (like a Unichip), or an Osiris rom tune, you cannot perform any variety of tune on a V35.

Putting a supercharger or turbocharger on a stock motor is an extremely bad idea. Pretty much every story I have read about people putting FI on a standard motor ends in tears after a short period of time.

Have a read of this in full ....

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/350z-g35-twin-turbo-install.html

Putting a supercharger or turbocharger on a stock motor is an extremely bad idea. Pretty much every story I have read about people putting FI on a standard motor ends in tears after a short period of time.

And I can give you examples of NA motors that have given up too. Without looking hard you can find examples of FI stock block motors running 30, or 40 thousand miles after becoming forced induction. Such a general statment is just bullshit mate. Uneducated bullshit. Yes, there are motors that let go- mostly due to poor tuning, abuse, or just plainly exceeding the limits. However there are many more rolling around everyday just doing fine. Its a bit like the old N1 oil pump saga.

Plain and simple though - our very high compression motors are most certainly not built to withstand FI. Maybe with most conservative tuning, tons of fuel and a bit of luck you could do it, but for the most part, people who go to the expense and trouble of putting on FI don't do it to gain 30rwkw - they want decent power, and in order to do that you need to run timing and boost, which will result in an exploded motor. Fullstop.

The limits are well defined.

I've gained 70kw, in a very safe tune, at a boost level well under the limit.

You can just play around with Z tubes and Plenum spacers then.... I'll play with boost.

So you run about 220rwkw then I take it .... why would you even bother spending the sort of coin if you only have for that sort of power? And when you spin a bearing or create a piston inspection window in the side of your block I look forward to reading your sob story :) ..... when I had my R34 I ran a HKS 2530 on a RB25NEO and made a lazy 240rwkw @ 1 bar in an auto .... so obviously 220rwkw out of a 3.5l engine is pretty crappy.

The guy was asking for advice - yours is bad. MOST people who run FI on VQ35DEs only do so for a fairly short period of time, and then are up for significant cost and heartache - especially for non-mechanically minded people. That is all I was saying. Most people don't realise what you really need to do to make a FI setup on VQ35DEs to make them reliable. Decompression, block strengthening/machining and new crack/rods/pistons/head studs are the minimum required imho. Not to mention valve ECU/tuning, porting/manifold matching, fuel lines upgrade, fuel reg, fuel pumps, clutch/valve body and injectors upgrades etc etc ....

Ok, so spending how much on NA mods is good? Some nice $1100 Tomei manifolds for a 7 kw gain...?

I have done my work for the price some NA people have spend on mods. Thats because we built it, didn't just drop it off to a shop and say heres 10k- do it for me. Its not about how much we spend on cars anyway- its about making our cars personalised, our own. Whatever you spend- $200 or $100k. If the R34 was so great, maybe you should have kept it?

Please - tell me what my advice is, becuase I can't see anywhere above where I have directed advice at OP. I'm just countering some closed minded opinions based on no real world expereience - just stories on the interwebz

Building the engine to suit is probably the safest path, as power can be addictive, and everyone will always want 'just a bit more'. That said I have a friend running 9psi via a stillen supercharger on VQ30DE A32 Maxima with stock internals. He has had it for about 4 years now, and doesn't exactly drive it nicely.. no engine issues yet. Who knows if it will last, but it certainly didn't become a hand grenade after a few thousand km.

No Tony, you can't run Nistune on the V35 ECU sadly - especially given I am friends with and live under 5km from Pete Leibig - the guy who owns PLMS, makes the boards and tunes cars too ....

hey andrew, i am gonna install the exotic speed catback exhaust in a couple of weeks, do i need to get the V tuned ???

Most people i know that have installed catbacks don't get a tune, but i'm not 100% if it will do much

hey andrew, i am gonna install the exotic speed catback exhaust in a couple of weeks, do i need to get the V tuned ???

Do you have an SAFC or other kind of computer? If you don't, then there is nothing you can do to tune your V. But either way, not really.

After I had done all my mods I fitted an SAFCII and gained 10rwkw with an air/fuel tune, but there was a fair list of mods done in order to have that effect.

Short explanation: Exhausts do not require an ECU tune. The reason why people tune their cars after bolting on their simple modifications is to add to the tally of gained power through the less conservative tuning compared to stock maps.

Long explanation: If the exhaust had any influence at all, it may possibly be from changing headers in which the gases arriving at the wideband O2 sensors thereafter would be potentially different but that difference would be absolutely minuscule. If you want real accuracy in measuring air/fuel mixtures, you would need to put a wideband O2 sensor on each of the ports at the headers to monitor each and every single cylinder individually as the ECU could then tailor the fuel/ignition parameters for each cylinder individually. I saw this done at a MoTeC seminar and I must admit, it did look cool and the results were useful from a racing point of view. But the gains from it were that minor that while it helps in a racing situation, it does nothing for the average street enthusiast like us.

In my time of installing and tuning engine management systems, there has never been a situation which has warranted me altering the maps because of different pipework.

Edited by The Max

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
    • Can also confirm these work a treat for most balljoints and bushes. If you have access to a big rattle gun, they make the job so much easier and quicker, compared to using a socket wrench or shifter on the c-clamp 👍
    • Its sort of street but got used for circuit sprints on account of I never drive it on the road because I dont have the time to spare. So it usage was sits around for months at a time then gets driven either 50 or 250 kms to the track followed by 20 laps followed by 50 or 250kms home followed by stuck in the shed until next time. So yeah neither fish nor fowl. Just dont want to break it on the track as a preference. Hence the fairly short sensor/mod list. Probably more worried about it pinging itself to destruction more so than anything oil related.
    • My thing I'd be doing, is pulling it out, and just getting the tune cleaned up for now. Before that even happens, checking over everything, like vac hoses, fuel hoses, etc. No point dropping thousands on sensors if the moment you start it back up all the oil leaks out, or it has massive vacuum leaks etc.   But really, to know what to do, depends on what your use case is. Hard core track car? Throw most sensors available at it. Street car, I'd probably just run oil pressure, oil temps, water pressure, water temp, probably fuel pressure too. I don't know exactly what the Link can handle and do with those though. And if it's mainly just to cruise the streets, rather than mountain runs, you can probably skip most of the above if you've already got them in as gauges and warning lights.   PS, inb4 "sell it and buy a modern sportscar"
×
×
  • Create New...