Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The former is a halogen bulb intended to look like an HID.

The latter is an HID bulb.My knowledge of the V35 is hazy at best so I'm not sure if the OEM headlights are HID but if they are, then you'll need to have retained the HID ballast and retaining clip from the compliance conversion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6515148
Share on other sites

I generally stick to the terms 'HID' and 'halogen'. Xenon is a bit ambigious as HIDs are filled with Xenon gas, but you can get halogens with traces of Xenon gas also.

So the term Xenon doesn't really define the type of lamp.

As Sean said, factory low beam are HID. If the car was complied proplery, they would have been removed and had halogens fitted. However there are plenty of V35s getting around still with their factory HIDs in tact, either re-fitted after compliance, or complied by a workshop that didn't know they need to be removed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6515279
Share on other sites

I'm not really sure what it has at the moment as I'm not the first owner.. The left is working but the right has blown. Best bet would probably be to take the right one out and find out what it is hey? It has been checked for defects and what not when i brought it from Melbourne and they said nothing about them so maybe they are halogens?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6515777
Share on other sites

I generally stick to the terms 'HID' and 'halogen'. Xenon is a bit ambigious as HIDs are filled with Xenon gas, but you can get halogens with traces of Xenon gas also.

So the term Xenon doesn't really define the type of lamp.

As Sean said, factory low beam are HID. If the car was complied proplery, they would have been removed and had halogens fitted. However there are plenty of V35s getting around still with their factory HIDs in tact, either re-fitted after compliance, or complied by a workshop that didn't know they need to be removed.

I should hate stated xenon halogen aha apologies.

I'm not really sure what it has at the moment as I'm not the first owner.. The left is working but the right has blown. Best bet would probably be to take the right one out and find out what it is hey? It has been checked for defects and what not when i brought it from Melbourne and they said nothing about them so maybe they are halogens?

Go up to your headlight cover, and look at the bottom you will see little engravings it should say D2R. If you aren't sure, remove your front bumper and look for a ballast (a box with wires connected to it leading to the headlights) and read what is written on that. If you have a ballast, you have HID's and i believe if there is no ballast you have Xenon Halogens. It's a little confusing. My right headlight has blown too, i am planning on buying aftermarket lights but i need to take my bumper off and look for the ballast to see what will work with my car.

Goodluck!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6515784
Share on other sites

Uneducated response here, but don't HIDs take a half second or so to come on, while halogen would be instant on?

My low beams have a delay, and for that reason alone I believe they are HIDs. The high beams, which also emit a different colour light, come on instantly and I believe they are halogen.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6515940
Share on other sites

HIDs do have a smal delay, but the most noticeable effect is the don't come on at full brightness when cold, they take about 15 seconds or so to reach full brightness, and they tend to be a bit 'blueish' as they warm up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6515972
Share on other sites

Just checked - my low beams are a blueish colour & highs are yellow. Lows have a very slight delay turning on from cold, and also take a few seconds to get to full brightness - as per sonicii but not 15 seconds, maybe 3-4. Highs come on instantly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6516200
Share on other sites

Out of curiosity, since I haven't converted my lights back to their original HIDs, I have noticed that my high beams don't seem to have as much reach as they probably should. I keep the AFS switched off to avoid the AFS alarm from the lamps not being able to swing at all since the conversion and to obviously avoid any mechanical damage as a result. Do our headlamp assemblies start in the lowered position perhaps and that's why my high beams aren't really pointing high up like they should?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6516319
Share on other sites

Hey guys just a few quick questions - I have removed my headlights and I have halogens, but there are little grey units with yellowish stickers bolted onto the bottom of the headlights with wires coming out of them (cut wires), is this the factory hid unit? If so how would I go about setting it up? Is it difficult? Are there any diy's?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6516587
Share on other sites

Just checked - my low beams are a blueish colour & highs are yellow. Lows have a very slight delay turning on from cold, and also take a few seconds to get to full brightness - as per sonicii but not 15 seconds, maybe 3-4. Highs come on instantly.

So you have HID low beams and the top lights are Halogen :)

Hey guys just a few quick questions - I have removed my headlights and I have halogens, but there are little grey units with yellowish stickers bolted onto the bottom of the headlights with wires coming out of them (cut wires), is this the factory hid unit? If so how would I go about setting it up? Is it difficult? Are there any diy's?

Does it look a little something like this? If the wires are cut and not connected to anything, someone has been lazy and left the HID ballast in there. It might not be in use, but if you get the appropriate bulbs to suit HID bulbs and the wiring you need you can try hook it up but do a bit of research first. G35driver.com is a great forum with loads of info on pretty much anything and everything to do with these cars, give it a shot.

n3b4b8.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6516735
Share on other sites

Yup looks like the one in the pic.

So all I need is the wiring and globes?

Would these fit?

http://www.ebay.com....=item27c0ff9d43

Thanks

Correct, and obviosly you have to make sure the other end of the ballast is connected to something lol.

You have to be careful with D2R and D2S they use different bulbs.

Edited by Seano350GT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6516996
Share on other sites

are you sure they are different? All the ones I've found on ebay say d2r d2s and even d2c!!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-350Z-Murano-Subaru-WRX-STI-D2S-D2R-Factory-Xenon-HID-Replacement-Ballast-/170720897409?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27bfc22981

Even that says d2r d2s ^

I'm so confuse :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6517001
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around without a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
×
×
  • Create New...