Couple Of Qs R32 Rb20

[christafari]

G'day Guys,

Have a few questions that would be great to get some advice on.

First one is, the missus decided to put 7-11 Premium today (I am guessing its the 95 ron stuff a full tank ) she got home, I drove to work fine. On the way home though the car seemed very sluggish and at certain revs clutching there would be quiet pops & backfires from the exhaust. I just replaced the AFM last week and reset the ECU while it was on BP98 worth a reset while on the 95 stuff?. Just wondering if will be safe to keep driving it like a grandma till its about a 1/4 empty or 1/2 and fill it up with BP 98 or would anyone recommend me adding any octane booster to the tank? (I don't have the time to drain the fuel or enough jerry cans).

My second question I asked a few days back in the General maintainence section about the car getting really low revs when I clutch in as if it was about to stall. I got a response that it is due to a atmo bov but I only have a factory stock plumb back do these fail after time and worth while replacing?

My third question, I am going to be purchasing a heap of gear over the coming month/s to put on the skyline the typical - Injectors, Z32 AFM, Bigger Turbo (R33 or R34), Fuel pump, Coil overs etc. I am on the north side and wondering if there is one place I can go for a full service and install the turbo, injectors & coil overs properly and a tune all at the same time?

Thanks in advance!

Chris

[Mr.H]

The Standard BOVs can get a bit tired and start bleeding off earlier than it should which can stall the engine. If the valve is hard to push up and seats/seals nice and tight when you let it go it should be ok to use.

Best Engine mod you can do for a R32 GTS-T is dump the ageing RB20DET and swap with an RB25DET. More available parts for the 25" and those extra cubes makes a huge difference over the 2.0L. I'm on my 3rd R32 GTS-T, my 1st was the 2.0L......then I went to the 2.5L and have never looked back.

Oh stay away from 7-11 fuels as well mate...fill the sucker up with V-Power on top of 7-11 fuel( less detergents than BP Ultimate 98 ).

Edited September 4, 2012 by Mr.H

[christafari]

Cheers Mr H,

I've been thinking about a transplant but really eager to work out the small little issues at the moment, the guy I bought the car off had a R32 sitting at his place with a very nicely worked RB25 in it and his exact words "I will never drive it or finish the rest of the car because all my friends are V8 fans and they will laugh at me". On the way to work today I felt the car surge on and off power from an almost stop to rolling (Guessing fuel since it is popping quite a bit more from the exhaust ever since the 7-11 fuel). I've grabbed some of the Nulon Pro Strength Octane stuff (Read the article here: http://www.elanfactory.com.au/pdf/technical_information/Octane%20booster.pdf) went for a drive still pops a bit a little over half a tank so I might do as you mentioned and top it up tomorrow morning with some V-Power in the morning!

Thanks very much!

Chris

WTB: RB25DET

[Mr.H]

No probs, he should finish it.....when you're mate starts burning those 8s with a little 2.5L they will be silenced by gate.

Edited September 4, 2012 by Mr.H

[Excuses]

Where a outs on the north side? I'd your close enough to morayfield caboolture I highly recommend Pete@RPM.

Take your car for a visit and tell him what you want to do with it and he will tell you the best options, pricing wise is good, the fact that if you order it and install it threw him he will look after you. Only shop my car goes to for everything now.

As for the low idle on clutch, only really heard of it happening with atmo unless faulty factory.

[sneakey pete]

For the price of getting a rb25 in, you could do a heck of a lot to the standard 20...

As for the idle, try cleaning out the idle control valve, it sits on the top of the plenum and bypasses air past the throttle to adjust idle and cold starts or something like that i think.

[pipster11]

+1 for the cleaning the idle gear

clean it with carby cleaner, just don't break the gasket

also, if your gonna get a z32 afm, you will need a tune

i'd say go nistune, but i think for what your looking to do, you probably won't need a nistune

i'd do:

Hypergear highflow or atr43 (best to speak with them about what you want from it)

Injectors

z32

Deatchworks fuel pump

Nistune +tune

if your careful you can acquire parts that are interchangeable, run a chunk of boost down the 20 and when that goes replace it with a 25

[gts25t4door]

i am in the same boat, with my car accept mine is an RB20 in an S13 Silvia. I have upgraded the turbo to a GT2860RS and man you can certainly notice the difference from stock. I upgraded the fuel pump to a ERD special, and I have a Nistune ECU and a set of seimens 660 injectors ready to go in. All I need is a Z32 AFM and I am on my way to about 300rwhp, as it already has 210rwhp.

I recommend Dan at Elite Racing Developments (at stapylton near Yatla Pies) for all your mechanical needs but I know a few people on here use Richard at Allstar Tuning at Brendale.

[GH05T]

i can only recomend what i know and all i really know is what i have, however what i have sounds like the path your about to take.

in my 20 i have

new turbo (no point in sujjesting which one cos theirs pages of debate and it comes down to what u want, R33 turbo is the easiest way)

GTR injectors

GTR coilpacks

Z32 AFM

Nistune

FMIC

Dump/ exhaust

GTR BOV

044 fuel pump

at about 1bar i squeeze past 200rwkw and its comfortable but yeah the 20 needs to be wound up a bit before it boogies, but they just keep on reving.

feels good, great power after 3000rpm and pulls on and on and on....and on

i spent allot of time chasing down little vacuum leaks and cracked hoses.

spend some time doing this cos eventually you will find one little split, replace it and all of a sudden it all runs smooth as cream.

if the 20 isnt stone smooth then somethings not right. start pulling pipes, seals and joiners and see which ones have lost their flex and fall appart, when in doubt just replace their cheap.

[sneakey pete]

And check things like the idle control. Mine was playing up every morning last week, holding the car at 2000rpm when it was still cool, stalling out etc. Pulled the dam thing off to find that the spring inside was rooted at the valve was just free floating in its track.

Considering they're all 20 years old, i'm half considering replacing every bit of pipework in the engine bay. I think it'd save me a lot of trouble in the long run.