Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest Robo's

My clutch pedal for starts is pretty close to the floor, maybe 1 inch before it responds which i have adapted to driving too and find in no problem. Been dirving around like this for 6 months with plenty of strength in it. Lately when i go for a run on the freeway or as if it warms up, the pedal now goes high and stiff from the word go. Its like its been adjusted. Ive been mucking around the pedal adjustment under the dash but doesnt seem to do much. I also just bleed the clutch thing under the car.

Any ideas???

Also on my latest trip to the drags, after a few hard runs, i couldnt select 3rd with a quick shift. This happened about 4 times. It was like i was grinding it and i had neutral. A few tests on the street and it seems ok. I don't know if its coincedence or what.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40845-clutch-pedal-feel-problem/
Share on other sites

I have my clutch about 1 inch from the floor too, I have no issues with it but other people don't like the feel.

Lately at the drags (before I got it "adjusted") i'd have to put my foot "flat" on the floor (and leave it there) to release the gear and then engage rather then just a quick push on the pedal. I was told by the the mechanic that supplied fitted my clutch/brakes that its because I have an organic sports clutch where the plate itself will flex when worn/hot (he had a worn 1 their and showed me how flexible it becomes just by squeezing it with your fingers).

What clutch do you have?

I got a similar thing with mine...

Doesnt phase me... but you might have a leaky slave cylider (is that whats its called?)

As mine is leaking a bit, along with the clutch brainded line not being the right diameter is causing mine not to disengage at times after a fang.

Hey guys i have just had my clutch slave re-built,it was leaking into the cabin like a bitch.! pretty easy and cheap fix though put the car in the mechs in d morning and picked it up in d arvo for a cost of $150 including new fluid and re-biuld!Clutch now has full pressure and is nice and stiff!

QUOTE=KamikazeR33]just next to the gearbox on the drivers side

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
    • Don't do what I did, use a 300000km old housing with billet gears. The old pump probably was clearanced with saw dust, Edward Lee's special engine treatment sauce and a good odo wind back. I had oil pressure issues, then replaces pump with new housing, new billet gears and 2x track day later binned a motor due to other oil related issues due to a previous engine builder. Long story short, buy a M2 or 3 or 4 N55/S55/S58 and enjoy life.
    • Yeah. "New pump" does not have to mean "massive pump".
    • Well, can you still get an OEM pump, and by the time you're buying a Nismo/N1 etc, just buy another aftermarket pump. It's better to have the pump able to flow more if its needed, than for your pressure to drop off. At any point in time, you're replacing the oil pump in a rebuild. Aftermarket pumps are likely going to be a better economical choice, and they don't have any negatives, even if they can flow more.   Also, when you're saying "replace the pump gears" are you meaning leave a 25+ year old housing in the engine with unknown wear, and just put new gears in? As that sounds silly to me, especially if you do have that minute amount of wear, that means your new pump gears now have a little bit more clearance beside them, which means, whelp, you may not get to build a lot of oil pressure or make a lot of flow.
×
×
  • Create New...