Jump to content
SAU Community

Constant Clicking From Fuel Pump Relay And Quiet Clicks Coil Packs When Pump Switched Off


Recommended Posts

hey guys need some urgent help, I've got an rb25 in my 180 it having issues getting it going to get it tuned

we've just gone and fitted up a new turbo, manifold and done an injector swap on my RB25, and while everything was pulled off i tidied up the wiring under the dash, it has a custom loom but in the initial wire up I forgot to add the unswitched power as we had troubles saving the map on the power fc last tune so i thought this may have been the cause, but now we've gone to power everyhting up to set the injector values before we start the car and the fuel pump relay is constantly clicking. I have the fuel pump neg on a switch so i can isolate that and when i do we can hear a feint clicking in the coil packs (disconnected the to check if it was).

I've now disconnected all the wires i had played with and checked the power wires to the eccs relay but it still happens,

If i check earth continuity at the relay i can get a beep on the multimeter on three pins, and there fore back at the fuse panel. could it be the relay has shit itself, as i though this shouldnt happen or with the power on will this happen.

If any one has any ideas just throw them in the ring, I don't have another computer (stock or fc) at the moment to check if it will work with that but i can't see that i would have damaged anything in the computer so this shouldn't be it. I've tried a couple of things but any other ideas will be welcomed,

Cheers

Nick

Happens when my battery is low. The power going through the relays is on the fence between keeping the relay switch on and off. I hear it at the relays near the ecu and fuel pump.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...