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I use both the pwr and a Koyo all copper radiator. Both excellent products but both pricey.

The koyo is the winner in the cooling stakes but the pwr is a good bit of kit as well.

Some things you just shouldnt skimp on. Radiators are high on that list.

there are a few Koyo radiators on eBay with a Sydney based seller going for around ~$500 [Here]

Are they fake or real? sooo cheap!

Its real thats there normal price now days, forum trader tengoku imports also have them for 500 mark, cant go past it I reckon for that price.

there are a few Koyo radiators on eBay with a Sydney based seller going for around ~$500 [Here]

Are they fake or real? sooo cheap!

The pictures on the listing is quite deceptive, cause if you read on in the description the rad is a plastic tank/aluminium core and not full alloy all-round... That's why it's selling at a cheap price.

http://www.koyorad.com/products/radiators.asp

http://www.koyoradracing.com/products/radiators.asp?make=Nissan

The all aluminum Koyo rads are definitely more expensive than that!

The pictures on the listing is quite deceptive, cause if you read on in the description the rad is a plastic tank/aluminium core and not full alloy all-round... That's why it's selling at a cheap price.

http://www.koyorad.c...s/radiators.asp

http://www.koyoradra...asp?make=Nissan

The all aluminum Koyo rads are definitely more expensive than that!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/379401-koyo-radiators/

Bought mine from tengoku for 500 and its the all aluminium one no plastic.

I actually like the look of that Koyo in post 11 , Is that a 52mm deep twin core single pass radiator and model no is ?

Theory here , mine anyway . I've had issues over the years with radiators and cooling problems and a few things are worth noting .

Aluminium radiators are heaps lighter than copper brass and tend to cool better if the core is properly made . I had constant issues with the old Subaru until I found a custom made twin row core for it , which mimiced the overseas twin core auto turbo model we didn't get here .

Just on this more cores (rows of tubes) are not better than 1 row of deep tubes becayse where there is gaps there cant be tube or fin area . The first row pre heats the second then third etc . Obviously multiple cores are better than a single narrow core if thats all thats available ie the old Subie .

I'm not criticising others but personally my preference will always be a vertical tube radiator and single pass for one very good reasons . A multi pass core won't always thermosiphon because hot water wants to rise not fall and I'm not sure how well the multi pass works after shut down . When engines get real hot they can boil the coolant and when water boils it turns to steam bubbles . I reckon in a single pass radiator and steam bubbles will collect in the top tank and hopefully be pushed under pressure out the top tube to the overflow bottle . Ideally this is what happens with the turbos water cooling after shut down .

I think the theory will multi pass rads is that each pass removes some heat but it is limited to the flow capacity of each sectioned "pass" .

Truthfully I think the more tubes you have available for a given water flow rate the slower the flow speed will be in each tube and therefore the greater time spent there to reject any heat . Just my thoughts .

That aside I want something that looks like a radiator and it doesn't have to be shiny only functional . I really like the look of that Koyo above because it slopes down on the top tank like the OE one next to it and I guess that means its an exact replacement - ie the std airboxes inlet fits as per normal ?

Some weird ones I saw pictures of have a "stepped" section on one side and it looks really agricultural to me as not happening in my car .

With this Koyo does the std fan shroud fit in exactly the same place as with the std radiator , I like things as std as possible in this area .

I like Japanese made parts and I think you pay a bit more for something that does more than look the part .

Thanks in advance , cheers Adrian DP03 .

Sorry didn't see this thread had a second page , I think the Koyo R33s radiator is part no R020442 but not sure if its multi pass like some Koyos appear to be .

Found this .

  • R and V Series Core - Koyorad (Koyo) Racing Aluminum Radiators are available in R-Series (53mm) and V-Series (36mm) cores to provide a greater coverage for various types of engine tuning. The thickness of Core is noted by a "R" (R-series) or "V" (V-series) at the beginning of the product number.
  • Nocolok Brazing - Each Koyorad (Koyo) Racing Aluminum Radiator has Tubes, Fins, Headers, and Brackets are brazed in a state-of-the-art Nocolok Furnace, bonding all components into an indestructible radiator.
  • OE Specification Mounting - All Koyorad (Koyo) Racing Aluminum Radiator have fan mounts situated to OE specifications allowing for both stock and performance fans to be used.
  • Hand-crafted Heliarc Soldering - Each Koyorad (Koyo) Racing Aluminum Radiator is TIG-welded by hand with Heliarc soldering. Heliarc soldering is the highest in industry standard for welding aluminum connections.
  • Tube and Fin Alignment - Koyorad (Koyo) Racing Aluminum Radiators are crafted under strict quality control and solid boxing result in pristine tube and fin alignment, fresh from the factory.
  • Mirror Finish - Koyorad (Koyo) Racing Aluminum Radiators have all aluminum surfaces buffed before boxing to a confident mirror finish.
  • N-Flo Construction (Multi-Pass) - Koyorad (Koyo) N-Flo Racing Aluminum Radiator have strategically placed partitions make for a "N" or "U" shaped flow through the radiator. This allows for improved cooling efficiency compared to normal all-aluminum racing models. (N-Flo models are denoted by a "N" at the end of the product number)

So I guess with no "N" on the end of the part number the Koyo R type Racing R33 GTR/GTS25T R020442 radiator doesn't have this multi pass business , just need a good price now .

A .

Edited by discopotato03

With this Koyo does the std fan shroud fit in exactly the same place as with the std radiator , I like things as std as possible in this area .

I like Japanese made parts and I think you pay a bit more for something that does more than look the part .

Thanks in advance , cheers Adrian DP03 .

Yes perfect standard fit, my 53mm dropped straight in like a standard one, airbox would fit to.

Sorry didn't see this thread had a second page , I think the Koyo R33s radiator is part no R020442 but not sure if its multi pass like some Koyos appear to be .

Found this .

  • R and V Series Core - Koyorad (Koyo) Racing Aluminum Radiators are available in R-Series (53mm) and V-Series (36mm) cores to provide a greater coverage for various types of engine tuning. The thickness of Core is noted by a "R" (R-series) or "V" (V-series) at the beginning of the product number.
  • Nocolok Brazing - Each Koyorad (Koyo) Racing Aluminum Radiator has Tubes, Fins, Headers, and Brackets are brazed in a state-of-the-art Nocolok Furnace, bonding all components into an indestructible radiator.
  • OE Specification Mounting - All Koyorad (Koyo) Racing Aluminum Radiator have fan mounts situated to OE specifications allowing for both stock and performance fans to be used.
  • Hand-crafted Heliarc Soldering - Each Koyorad (Koyo) Racing Aluminum Radiator is TIG-welded by hand with Heliarc soldering. Heliarc soldering is the highest in industry standard for welding aluminum connections.
  • Tube and Fin Alignment - Koyorad (Koyo) Racing Aluminum Radiators are crafted under strict quality control and solid boxing result in pristine tube and fin alignment, fresh from the factory.
  • Mirror Finish - Koyorad (Koyo) Racing Aluminum Radiators have all aluminum surfaces buffed before boxing to a confident mirror finish.
  • N-Flo Construction (Multi-Pass) - Koyorad (Koyo) N-Flo Racing Aluminum Radiator have strategically placed partitions make for a "N" or "U" shaped flow through the radiator. This allows for improved cooling efficiency compared to normal all-aluminum racing models. (N-Flo models are denoted by a "N" at the end of the product number)

So I guess with no "N" on the end of the part number the Koyo R type Racing R33 GTR/GTS25T R020442 radiator doesn't have this multi pass business , just need a good price now .

A .

Koyo Radiator Group buy.....Im in.

Koyo Radiator Group buy.....Im in.

I'm keen too, so is Ph@t-G, we could hit up this guy

http://stores.ebay.com.au/RADIATORSS?_trksid=p4340.l2563

He's in Sydney, inspect, pickup, pay cash. However, I am not organising, too much responsibility and headache lol

Il see what i can do- Anyone intrested drop me a PM and if its worth while price wise im start an official thread in the group buy section

Also located in sydney so i dont mind being used as the pick up place to save on delivery costs ect.

  • 2 months later...

Has anyone been able to compare the Koyo Type-R for R34 GTRs compared to Racepace's triple pass radiator?

I've emailed them a few questions regarding fitment, etc and I don't want to hassle Ash with the Qs :P

  • 1 month later...

Has anyone been able to compare the Koyo Type-R for R34 GTRs compared to Racepace's triple pass radiator?

I've emailed them a few questions regarding fitment, etc and I don't want to hassle Ash with the Qs :P

any more on this? i need a new rad too, its a toss up between the racepace and Koyo

  • 5 months later...

I had a FENIX rad, cost $250 a couple of years ago and was a great fit, could still use the shroud as well.

Did lots of track days and drags and never had a over heating issue, only problem was driving up the mountains with 0 deg temps when the coolant temp dropped so far I thought the sensor was broken.

There is a tread in the SAUNSW members sponsors area.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/314551-great-deals-on-radiators/

Any more thoughts on good radiators ?

Justjap have Blitz and Cooling Pro radiators, are these any good or should i just stick to a Koyo ?

cooling pro are piss poor. the standard airbox scoop doesn't fit over it and the coolant temp sensor bung on mine doesn't quite seal properly and it has an extremely slow weep of rad fluid.

that said, you should buy mine so I can put a FENIX in. :P

I had a FENIX rad, cost $250 a couple of years ago and was a great fit, could still use the shroud as well.

Did lots of track days and drags and never had a over heating issue, only problem was driving up the mountains with 0 deg temps when the coolant temp dropped so far I thought the sensor was broken.

There is a tread in the SAUNSW members sponsors area.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/314551-great-deals-on-radiators/

That link didn't work ?

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