Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just a quick question im sure someone will know straight up.

did a search on when to upgrade FPR, the anwser was 'Never if you have the right injectors'

What I want to know, do I have the right size for my application?

Mods are as follow.

Standard RB25

Hypergear ATR43 turbo

top mount manifold, ext wastegate

front facing plenum

top feed fuel rail

Denso 850cc injectors

Wolf 3D V4 is the brain.

will i need an adjustble FPR? or will just running the lines from my standard reg/filter do the trick?

Power goal is around 270kw

Thanks :)

Not if youre running an aftermarket fuel rail it wont be. Mainly due to the fact that the stock reg is fitted to the factory rail and it wont simply 'bolt on'.

In which case you would require an aftermarket reg.

GTR injectors (444cc) support 280kw close to max duty cycle of 100%. 850cc you have plenty of headroom, you could easily run E85 at that power level and still have headroom. Adjustable FPR will be a waste of money.

Not if youre running an aftermarket fuel rail it wont be. Mainly due to the fact that the stock reg is fitted to the factory rail and it wont simply 'bolt on'.

In which case you would require an aftermarket reg.

Ah, didn't even see that one :/

stao runs 850's with ethanol and getting upto and over 300kw's , correct me if im wrong..

if you have a stock rail with the 850's then no need for aftermarket reg, i went after market cause of the top feed rail.

Edited by SliverS2

Hey guys just a quick question im sure someone will know straight up.

did a search on when to upgrade FPR, the anwser was 'Never if you have the right injectors'

What I want to know, do I have the right size for my application?

Mods are as follow.

Standard RB25

Hypergear ATR43 turbo

top mount manifold, ext wastegate

front facing plenum

top feed fuel rail

Denso 850cc injectors

Wolf 3D V4 is the brain.

will i need an adjustble FPR? or will just running the lines from my standard reg/filter do the trick?

Power goal is around 270kw

Thanks :)

I think the comment "never if you have the right injectors" is misguided somewhat regarding regulator.

a few reasons you may install an adjustable fpr would be:

1. when you increase boost, need to ensure f/pressure is not going to exceed HP f/pumps supply (pressure vs volume)

2. if you change camshaft, often less vaccum causes from larger cam profiles cause high f/pressure

3. as forementioned, if the aftermarket rail doesn't have a fitting for stock FPR. (should be a no brainer for the tuner)

4. if large injectors are used and have poor low pulse width control.

5. if trying to improve fuel economy. (often best to run higher pressure where possible)

6. different fuels being used, eg, methanol/e85/m85/e10 etc. high fuel pressure with higher content of alcohol.

if you want to run e85, other fuel system consideratinos must be made first, fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel pump, compatible fuel regulator etc.

but thats another day.

The 850cc's are fine for a little while longer,

this time depends on the duty cycle at the highest rpm the engine is designed to reach and

of course if the fuel pump can supply the volume at that higher pressure (base pres + boost pres).

Looks like ill be purchasing an aftermarket one as i will need speedflow type fittings for the ends of the fuel rail.

Seems like obviously to set up would be.

fuel filter hose to fuel reg, fuel reg to fuel rail & other end of fuel rail to the damper which is on the side of the engine bay?

Yep. Like I said you cant connect a standard reg to an aftermarket reg. Plenty seemed to miss that.

Youll need to connect the fuel filter hose to the rail, then from the rail to the 'in' port of the reg, then the 'out' port of the reg goes back to tank. A reg works by restricting the return from the rail.

Yep. Like I said you cant connect a standard reg to an aftermarket reg. Plenty seemed to miss that. Youll need to connect the fuel filter hose to the rail, then from the rail to the 'in' port of the reg, then the 'out' port of the reg goes back to tank. A reg works by restricting the return from the rail.

READ the above and understand it. Because he is right.

On the other hand, many cars these days do run a dead head fuel rail. The reg is actually located at the back of the car and returns fuel direct to the tank. The fuel that goes forward is all destined to go to the rail and then into the engine - no return. There are concerns with fuel heating and so on (which is why flow through rail return systems were invented in the first place). The concerns are that if you have fuel sitting in the rail while car idles hot at the lights on a hot day (for example) then you might boil the fuel in the rail and cause havoc for yourself. This probably won't happen whilst running because the 3 bar pressure will tend to help stop it from boiling. But it can certainly boil in the rail after parking the car in the same hot hot conditions. This could stop you from being able to start it. A flow through rail will at least be able to purge the vapour out as soon as the fuel pump is switched on, and so you can start them. The advent of dead head systems means that the concerns over boiling were either unfounded or they have found ways around it.

What this means is that you could actually run the supply hose up to a T piece on the inlet of the reg and run the other leg of the T to the fuel rail. Priming the rail from empty might be a bit of a pain in the arse, but the reg would otherwise work as advertised. It would close down to restrict flow to the return to maintain pressure in the rail, and open up to let it go when demand at the engine was low. There might be usability problems with it, but it will still work.

I reckon std replacement or a std replacement one for something that uses rubber fuel hose both sides . I cant see the point throwing money at pretty aluminium screw fittings for a road car . Its not like its being ripped apart in the pits all the time .

Someone does aftermarket adjustable FPRs for Nissans and I think the SR ? one uses hose barbs both sides . Brass barb from you rail to something like this would be cheaper more stealthy and work just as well .

IMO bigger injectors with a bit more pump running std fuel pressure .

A .

  • 11 months later...

I now think there's a bit more to fuel pressure regs than meets the eye . Obviously the OE one is designed to suit a factory std car as in std turbo/boost/cams/injectors/fuel pump inc the high low voltage system .

From what I read in here you ending up tossing most things on say an RB25det because externals like the AFM/injectors/pump etc aren't good for much extra power - fuel flow air flow etc .

So you reaches for the bigger fuel pump and do the direct battery rewire , add larger injectors a Z32 + PFC and tune . If you don't have a wide band and gauge etc you never really know what's going on AFR wise and you take the tuners word that everything's apples .

Then you throw a wide band in and you find things the tuner couldn't get around like say that learning business with PFCs and maybe injectors that aren't as modern as current good ones . Things like mixture control at light loads and cruise aren't brilliant and you can't seem to piss off that rich spike you get when backing off from part throttle . Fuel consumption can be pretty average around town too . Recently I was into the ViPec again and tried a different approach to the cam switching and pump low/high maps (neither based purely on revs BTW) and found better cleaner running . The real surprise was finding how much easier the low/cruise mixtures were to get right by having the pump at low voltage meaning less pressure/flow for the injectors to try and work with .

Just so you know I'm running a 33GTR pump 740s and 256 Tomeis , fuel pressure reg is std . Scotty asked me recently if I was "over running" the std reg and at the time I said I didn't think so but now I think differently . Obviously those Nismo 740s aren't up with EV14s and when you're idling at about 1 ms IDC they need all the help they can get . Maybe it's better accuracy that makes EV14s a tuners best friend because they don't have to screw around with all kinds of things to make older injectors play nice .

The point of all this , IMO anyway , is that once you fit higher capacity fuel pumps and direct wire them the std FPR probably won't cope too well if and may struggle to regulate fuel pressure properly at short injector pulse widths . I think Scotty said somewhere that the std reg has a quite small bypass passage so with a big pump running at full voltage it can't open up enough to prevent the pressure rising under those conditions . It probably won't be an issue with the revs up a bit and a some engine load and that's all some people care about . So , with big pump full voltage the only simple way to make the fuel system run in regulation (base pressure + manifold pressure) is to use an aftermarket fuel pressure reg that can bypass more fuel than a std one can .

If you can find a way to keep the high low voltage system that will help but getting the std wiring to cope with current draws like that E85 Walbro can drag at times won't work .

A .

Oh and BTW EFI Hardware is doing this nifty gadget to adapt a std FPR to aftermarket billet fuel rails . Handy .

http://www.efihardware.com/image/2358/regulator-and-adapter-alloy-fuel-rail-end-8-o-ring-port-to-Nissan-regulator_2358

Edited by discopotato03
  • 5 years later...

Hey all, know this is an old thread but didn't want to start a new one unnecessarily. I've got an rb25det neo that runs richer than a Bavarian chocolate cake after a 4 course, specs are:

Stock turbo

Uprated intercooler

Uprated fuel pump

Stock rail and intake

3" turbo back exhaust

Just wondering if the rich condition could be because of an undersized return line. Cheers in advance.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
×
×
  • Create New...