Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rays Gram Lights 18x10+18 Pair No Tyres

Price: $800 Firm Looking for a quick sale

I've got this pair of rims which I no longer have use for. There is some scuff marks as shown in pics but they have not alter the working condition of the rims. They currently have tyres on them which aren't part of the sale.

Plenty of Dish

IMG_8272.jpg

Clear Coat coming off one of the rims

IMG_8275.jpg

Small Bump here which doesn't affect the working condition of the rim. Currently has a 235/40/18 on it and it's holding pressure fine

IMG_8277.jpg

Small Dint at the back which hasn't affected the working condition of the rim

IMG_8283.jpg

Contact Via PM or SMS

Located in Hurstville or Manly Area

0421079631

Benny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408541-nsw-rays-gram-lights-pair-18x1018/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 6 months later...

Rays Gram Lights 18x10+18 Pair of 225/40 shagged see pics of tread

Price: $800


I've got this pair of rims which I no longer have use for. There is some scuff marks as shown in pics but they have not alter the working condition of the rims. They currently have tyres on them which aren't part of the sale.

They were plastidipped in blue which i've now removed but there a little bits of plastidip still mainly around where the lug nuts go just need some tlc to remove completely


20130419_171646_zpsc8078ea7.jpg

20130419_171659_zps78fe0353.jpg

20130419_171706_zps64604401.jpg

Condition of Tyres
20130419_171719_zps9a43d4ca.jpg

20130419_171727_zps5b33e91a.jpg

Plenty of Dish

IMG_8272.jpg


Clear Coat coming off one of the rims

IMG_8275.jpg


Small Bump here which doesn't affect the working condition of the rim. Currently has a 235/40/18 on it and it's holding pressure fine

IMG_8277.jpg


Small Dint at the back which hasn't affected the working condition of the rim

IMG_8283.jpg

Contact Via PM or SMS

Located in Hurstville or Manly Area


0421079631

Benny

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm interested if anyone agrees with what you've said, and can give a good reason. Temperature of powder coating should be below any temperature you'd use to alter the wheel structure.  Powder coat typically 200 to 250. Annealing if that's what people are claiming would be occuring, starts at 300, and depending on the alloy, can need even up at 400+.   That's the only part I can think of that could cause an issue that people are believing it's from the rim losing hardness and becoming too soft.
    • Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire.   Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches. Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch. If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight.   Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow?  If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.
    • Anyone know if it's a problem to powder coat forged alloy wheel centers (Rays/Volk GT-C). some say it's bad and can damage the alloy, some say it's not a problem.
    • Hey guys, I'm reviving an old post but I'm finally getting around to working on this now. I removed the battery to get a better look at the wires and i traced the wires from the headlight to the fuse box in the engine bay, but the wiring looks fine? The wiring for the R/H headlight is 3 wires and then is bundled up with the large diameter wire that goes underneath the fuse box. I didn't take it apart yet. I know you said that its a short circuit somewhere between the fuse box and the headlight. But could it be the headlight switch on the dash? Also, i pulled out my multi-meter and set it on the Ohms, but i'm not sure where to put the negative probe and the positive probe.     
    • I have a 2 lt in Sydney. It was fitted on a R33 GTR, not used for several years . If you are interested email me on: [email protected] I'm not on this forum much .
×
×
  • Create New...