R34 Stock Turbo Inlet And Exhaust Wheel Specs

[RB25 SKYLINE]

hey guys just bought a second hand r34 hiflowed turbo off a bloke he said it came on the car when he bought it so doesnt know who hiflowed it so just tryn to find out what the standard inlet and exhaust housing wheel sizes are so i can compare it with what i have or any distinguishing features between the both of them.ive done plenty of searching and am highly aware that the standard comp wheel is nylon and all that just want sizes.cheers

[R31Nismoid]

So are you trying to work out how big the hi-flow is or something else?

If you have the hi-flow, and it's specs - you can work out how much bigger it is quite easily as you have all the info you need already

[RB25 SKYLINE]

yes i am tryn to find out if it is a hiflow or not buti dont know how big a stock turbo is so its hard to compare.ive searched and all i get is that its bigger than a r32 and 33 and is has a nylon comp wheel.

[R31Nismoid]

Well the rear is ceramic on a stocker - so it's not hard to tell at all.

And also if it's been hi-flowed, from the comp housing it's pretty obvious as there will be a whole lot of material missing when compared to a stock housing (google)

[Moodles2]

Nylon compressor wheel is what R34 stock turbos have, what you have there is a bog stock turbo, if it was a highflow it would be metal.

[RB25 SKYLINE]

both wheels sound metal wen u tap something on them but a magnet wont stick to either of them which ive been told will not always work even with steel wheels.it has a number engraved on the front housing that says ghc 67209 which looks like its been done by hand.im greatful for the help r31 nismoid but i dont have a stock turbo to compare it to thats my biggest problem thats why im hopeing someone can give me specs off theres

[R31Nismoid]

Google is your friend mate.

First result from google image

If your front inlet looks like it's missing more material than the factory (below), then you've got a modified turbo.

Part of the hi-flow process is to mill some of the intake to the compressor housing, to fit larger wheels.

[GTSBoy]

There's no such thing as "steel" wheels. Compressors are usually an aluminium alloy. Turbines are usually a high nickel alloy (loosely categorised as a stainless steel, but it's a bit hard to call these a "steel" when there is less iron in them than there is alloying elements).

Ceramic turbines are dead obvious and easy to tell from metallic ones.

[wolverine]

^^mythbuster special

[RB25 SKYLINE]

Google is your friend mate.

First result from google image

If your front inlet looks like it's missing more material than the factory (below), then you've got a modified turbo.

Part of the hi-flow process is to mill some of the intake to the compressor housing, to fit larger wheels.

definatly looks thinner than that heres a pic of mine

[kitto]

Your turbo has been hi-flowed. Yes.

[R31Nismoid]

definatly looks thinner than that heres a pic of mine

Definately NOT standard mate

A RB turbo hi-flow really doesn't have "too" many options as it's a fairly tried and proven forumla

So you could expect somewhere around the 250-280rwkw mark on 18-20psi (PULP), and still maintain resonable response with it coming on around 3500rpm give/take - all of that is reasonably standard for the OP6 hi-flow (NEO turbo).

If you get the compressor/turbine wheel measurements of that turbo, people could give you a rough idea of the power and response it'll be capable of or at the least let you know if it's potentially mis-matched. As sometimes in the past people have used compressor wheels that are far to big resulting in a surgy hi-flow, although it seems most manufactuers have stopped doing about 5 years ago so chance are it'll be a good unit whatever spec/variation it will be

[RB25 SKYLINE]

awesome thanks heaps for ur help ive been told and read that people recommend running 17psi max with a stock r33 motor cause valves and pistons arnt real strong but i would like 280kws but id be happy with 260ish.thanks again

[kitto]

ive been told and read that people recommend running 17psi max with a stock r33 motor cause valves and pistons arnt real strong

Load of shit. As long as you have a good tuner, who knows what they are doing, then you can run more boost than 17 psi. How much? Well how long is a piece of string really... But many people have ran well over 20 psi through stock RB's before and had good results. How long the engine lasts seems to vary.

Make sure you get yourself a tune by a good tuner.

[RB25 SKYLINE]

Load of shit. As long as you have a good tuner, who knows what they are doing, then you can run more boost than 17 psi. How much? Well how long is a piece of string really... But many people have ran well over 20 psi through stock RB's before and had good results. How long the engine lasts seems to vary.

Make sure you get yourself a tune by a good tuner.

sorry my bad i meant 17psi safely for longer engine life.im sure i could run 20psi but like u said for how long.i have 155,000ks on my engine my car currently makes 210kw on 12psi with no dramas.do u think i should a hotter plug.currently running ngk coppers gapped at .8 i think the heat ratings just wat ever supercheap gave me .5 or 6. i just want the tune to go smoothly without any dramas with flat spots.

[kitto]

Well for starters i would do a compression and leak down test to get an idea of the health of the engine...

Is it serviced regulary.

If your going to put more boost into it, you dont want to go too hot with your heat range. A 6 or 7 will be fine. BCPR6ES gapped at .8 should be fine if your coil packs are all good. Or a BKR6/7E There are a few copper plugs to choose from. The most commonly used is the BCPR6ES.

Is it a street car or street/track?

What management will it have?

Boost controller?

260-280rwkW should be achievable in the 17-20 psi range.

[R31Nismoid]

sorry my bad i meant 17psi safely for longer engine life.im sure i could run 20psi but like u said for how long.i have 155,000ks on my engine my car currently makes 210kw on 12psi with no dramas.do u think i should a hotter plug.currently running ngk coppers gapped at .8 i think the heat ratings just wat ever supercheap gave me .5 or 6. i just want the tune to go smoothly without any dramas with flat spots.

It's all about being sensible.

Look @ the people running 300rwkw+ on stock motors. Slowly they are showing they aren't up to the test of time... No doubt over the next 18 months more will pop as there are a few more guys over the 300rwkw marker now and 20psi+. So it will be interesting.

Although side point, how many of them are actually over 300rwkw remains to be seen. Some have done 1/4 runes lately and been a good 5mph down, another issue all together that one really.

If you don't ever want to rebuild/push the envelope there are lots of guysing sitting @ 250rwkw and 16psi (with a hi-flow) and they have been running now for many years so it would appear to be quite reliable. Obviously every motor is different and you don't know the history but you can only look at this things on the majority basis.

It ultimately comes down to what you want / what you and the tuner agree is safe.

[RB25 SKYLINE]

Well for starters i would do a compression and leak down test to get an idea of the health of the engine...

Is it serviced regulary.

If your going to put more boost into it, you dont want to go too hot with your heat range. A 6 or 7 will be fine. BCPR6ES gapped at .8 should be fine if your coil packs are all good. Or a BKR6/7E There are a few copper plugs to choose from. The most commonly used is the BCPR6ES.

Is it a street car or street/track?

What management will it have?

Boost controller?

260-280rwkW should be achievable in the 17-20 psi range.

its serviced every 5000ks but only really gets driven on the weekends but every now and then i might drve it for a week to and from work which is a 1h each way up the freeway.i will be keen to hit the drags every now and then and maybe a few circuit days.

i currently have a remapped r33 ecu by toshi hes a great tuner and knows his stuff.his guarantee is if i race someone with the same mods and lose he will retune for free.so im gunna get it retuned by him.i am just running a turbo smart boost tee it does the job.im running r32 gtr coilpacks they seem to be working fine so far.