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GTRsean,
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Aye, everything is being touched and all the parts that are responsible for the oiling issues are also fixed. (Crank collar, billet prp oil pump, head return to sump, yada yada yada) Everything used is of reputable brands like greddy, prp etc. My tuner did mention we’d keep the torque on the “lower” side. glad to read that my engine won’t blow up on me lmao -
It's a fuel pump. EFI, high pressure, but specs otherwise unknown. A bodge job. -
800 engine horsies is fine. Will need all the obvious upgrades. Rods, pistons, oil pump, big sump, sump breathing mods. Build for revs because revs are power with less stress on the bottom end compared to boost. Keep the torque down in the midrange, either by limiting boost or timing.
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Hiya guys, i’m currently in the process of getting my rb26 built. everything is being replaced with better/upgraded parts or oem when that’s good enough (which isn’t alot lol). someone earlier mentioned to me that i’ll be screwed cause the iron block can’t take 800hp (to the engine, not wheels) which is what it’s being built for. what do you guys think about this, am I cooked or na? The guy building the engine will also do the mapping as he is “the guru of old nissan engines” here in Belgium. I know the mapping makes a huge deal so i’m not concerned about that. I honestly he’s talking shit cause he’s that kinda guy but a second opinion never hurt anyone! cheers in advance! 🫶🏻
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I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
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