Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well first off HI,

So yeh ive been working on doing the whole diesel auto to petrol manuel rb25det thingy.. every things done now except apprently i missed a wire for the IGN relay , Hence the turning over and not starting buzz its having..

Helps to know the diff between s1 and s2.. once i figered that out mines a r33 s1 engine and loom.. it all became clearer!

so far had put adjustables in, 5 stud conversion, the motor g/box, custom from hubs(for gangsta lock) haha and done the wiring to the point i just needed to get some more time to replace a fuse or two and power up that relay..

This was untill the other nite..

everything was going well, pump was priming car was turning over and i was trying to work out why only one of the two blue relays were clicking on .. so i tried put power to (im guessing the wrong wire) and now both are dead and not clicking on.. and also my ecu isnt turning off . well it kinda is, just the led flicks on and off real fast, and i can hear my fuel pump relay click in time with it.... so i tested all my power wires and as soon as i pulled a fuse out of the Vct/o2 wire(light blue/white) the ecu stops and turns off till i plug it back in.. so if anyone know what im doing wrong please tell me .. wiring is NOT my fav thing to do..

But aside that easy swap.. not sure why ppl are so scared of doing it..

post-98826-0-70423200-1346892306_thumb.jpg

post-98826-0-95035900-1346892309_thumb.jpg

post-98826-0-44466000-1346892311_thumb.jpg

post-98826-0-66921500-1346892313_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408663-my-c33-laurel-rd28-to-rb25det/
Share on other sites

soooo i bought this car for $1300nz, that was with adjustables.RB25det/gbox/ecu and loom a manuel driveshaft and a soo called 5-stud coversion302300_2650718710138_1904480914_n.jpg

At first look it wasnt so bad i knew i had mostly all the parts.. need a clutch kit and a gbox mount,, but noooo i needed SOOOOOO many Nuts and bolts! and spent close to $150 ordering them from nissan japan..

297691_2650736750589_852628199_n.jpg

Anyways.. the motors drop right in on the rd28 engine mounts, but i used rb20 ones not sure why, gbox fit in after jacking the front of the motor up to get the angle right.. drive shaft fit and bolted up BUT seems to be that the engine sit about 40mm to far forward, but still fits nicely!

562456_3576861943140_120227808_n.jpg

Put the FMIC kit on and realized it expects you to have some of the standard piping haha, so just imprivised and welded up a lil corner bend

181277_4135802756311_41124909_n.jpg

soo power stearing/alternator, on the rd28 there on the oppisite sides, wasnt much of a problem, cut back the loom and got the alternator wires on the other side and took the P/S out for now. as that can wait till the next time the engines out for paint.

Before all that the adjustable and 5 stud wnt in, s14 LCA and front knuckle/hubs.. whick were later modified for the lock! rear turned out to be ALL wrong as the had hicus r33 4wd ones which arnt even close to fitting on the lorry, so just used the lorrys carries and bolted the 5-stud to them,, put the 18s on, 265 on the rear and 215 on the front.

391269_2650719270152_1731168683_n.jpg

381967_2749224092711_320788231_n.jpg

Used the origanal tank, cleaned out with meths and gas, put a rb20det fuelpump in after modding the deisel pump carrier to fit haha, then came the wiring

526979_4135800676259_598510513_n.jpg

soo im using the cars starter and alternator loom for now, just bolted up to started , bridged the inhibit/clutch relay in engine fuse back and bam turning over..

wired the fuel pump up , with relay to switch it so it will prime, and then got into wiring the ecu, which is where i am at the mo, cars getting fuel, and its turning over.. just need to get time and get a power from ign to the injector relay power wire.. and will be wiring my 5pin afm to fit this 3pin afm!

ill go into abit more detail on the wiring if people wnt me too, well once its humming

540633_3960954345210_907942800_n.jpg

528510_3960954105204_1969084432_n.jpg

Edited by crosdpc33

Yeh so i've been told! well to be honest i thought it was a green when i first bought it!!!!!!! but yeh imma look into keeping it this colour!

Will have a update this weekend, on how to wire the r33 s1 rb25det (so with VCT working!), most ppl probably know, but gezz there isnt anywhere i could find for a guide.

Also have my back hubs so i can finally put the calipers on!! and bleed the brakes!

IF all goes well ill take it for a test this comming weekend!!!!

sweet, got her started today, just idle is sooooooo high, which may be because its got not intercooler piping or afm hooked up.. so my first deisel to petrol is pretty much done!!!

Keen to help anyone wanting to do this, its NOT as hard as ppl make it out to be!

imma write up a wiring guide etc .. for a S1 R33 rb25det

so stoaked right now haha

will post vid of the quick start.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

right so a quick update, re done alot of lil things, replacing the loom for a loom out of a rb20det r32 and using a chipped rb20de ecu. re-wired the engines starter/alternator loom in now also.. but will hopefully get a vid of it running in the next week.. car is in a shed 400km away from me so i dont get there often!

Ive done the whole AFM inthe intercooler pipe mainly because it saved me a lil $$ with piping and silicone joiners haha, will get pic up later!

ecu.jpg just desolderd the old Eprom and soldered in the socket for this rb25det chip This is tuned for a car with a free flowing exhaust and intake.

Features:

- Allows you to run up to 15 PSI boost (The limit of the factory turbo, NOT the chip!)

- Performance Tuned Fuel and Ignition Curves

- Removal of the Speedcut

- Rev Limiter Raised (7300 rpm)

- Boost cut Removed - BUILT IN FUEL CUT DEFENDER!!!!

Did you manage to get it running on all 6 dude? Going to be starting the job of wireing my rb20det loom into a rb20e laurel very soon.

It would be good to run it up on the dyno since you have got the chipped ecu, then you can try get the boost in the right spot so it doesnt run to rich or lean.

If the limmiter has been set to 7300rpm then thats lower than the factory 7500rpm

i hope it does!!!!!!!!!!, will see next time im up north! no reason it shouldn't fire on all six after testing it all seems like they should all go, so ive put it down to the wiring and maybe ignitor as that was getting SOOOOOOOOO hot it melted my fingers haha so I think I had just wired something wrong, fried two rb25det ecu also, so going this route with the r32 wiring and loom its just easier! and gunna run VCT off a pressure switch as r32 ecu wnt run it.... but yeh deff will go and get it tuned one day as the chips are just base maps really.... least in the end I can say ive done the diesel to petrol conversion haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies, while id like to put the MAF as close to the TB and relocate the recirc, this may be too much work. Will most likely end up just putting it on the original AFM spot ( onto/next to the airbox ).  Was going through nistune, found a pretty nifty doc on this. Nistune MAF Notes. Also, i was looking through the bay, and there seems to be a tube/line connected from the A/C to the intercooler piping ( Between the smic and the recirc), what does this do as the crossover fmic piping doesnt have any connection? plumbing? not sure what you call it but the nipple thing ahah.  Also, been reading up more about crossover fmic in regards to the legality of having the hole drilled for the piping, this would most likely need to be engineered right?
    • My advice is if you need a big build done do it in Japan. The yen rate is so favorable and there are shops that can be genuinely trusted and not micromanaged/carefully monitored every step of the way. Garage Yoshida is obviously my preferred option but they're so busy these days and all interaction with new customers has to be mediated through BBL/Toprank now. 
    • I haven't....but a poorly made one would terrify me. Surely a good second hand one is the go, as they don't work hard and no-one wants to keep one after they are finished with it A big consideration would be the weight of the shell you are putting on it....is it a fully dressed chassis or just the body
    • Not stock. All remade. Mostly looks stock because the pipes run to and from the standard holes in the inner guard to get to the return flow FMIC. I'm not sure which question you're trying to ask, because it seems like "stock position" vs "stock position".
    • Hey, it's a GT-R, it's just as significant a moment as mine😁 It's not ideal when things are uncertain; I'm the type of person that always has a set plan for things in life so being unsure of this plan puts me in a weird place mentally.
×
×
  • Create New...