Jump to content
SAU Community

Fs Engineered 210Kw R32 *loads Of Picks*


Recommended Posts

For sale is my R32

im looking to upgrade to a GTR

I am in no rush to sell so lowball away but prepare to be ignored

i love this car and it has been my fun and my daily and theirs a very good chance i will keep her.

i am still spending money on her servicing retuning, new custom split dump pipe and possibly more, buy it before it gets more expensive or i do decide to keep it for sure. we shal see.

lots of paperwork, receipts, regency papers come with car for almost everything.

however if you think its your cup of tea, enjoy...

Make/Model: R32 GTST

Year: 1989

Kilometers: 139000

Transmission type: 5speed manual

Engine: RB20det

Colour: Gunmetal Grey

Modifications: SEE BELOW

Roadworthy Certificate: NA in SA (ENGINEERED)

Registered: Yup

Accident History: nope

Asking Price: $12,000

Location: Andrews farm/ Thebarton

Contact Details: pm or 0413145430

Other Comments:210RWKW

one of the most important things about this car where allot of time and money has been spent is getting the car built properly and running gear engineered and regency approved.

if you have ever gone through this process you know what a money pit it can be.

210RWKW @ 1bar boost

here we go,

ENGINE

un opened rb20

GTR injectors

GTR resistor pack

GTR coilpacks

Trust TD05 Turbo externally gated

Bosch Z32 afm

Nistune ECU (tuned by BoostWorx)

Split custom dump pipe

highflow cat through a full exhaust to a kakimoto rear muffler

Bosch 040 intank brand new fuel pump

new fuel lines and new fuel tank

Greddy Front mount intercooler (legally installed with front end modifications)

metal intake pipeing/ all new intercooler piping

HKS podfilter

running copper BCPR6ES plugs

manual TURBOTECH boost controller set at 1bar

Drive train

RB20DET 5speed

brand new heavy duty exeddy clutch

GTR brake calipers

slotted GTR brake rotors

Top secret brakepads

GTR 16' Forged alloy wheels

brand new KHUMO KU31 tires

Greddy fully adjustable coilovers

Adjustable ARC Caster rods

Whiteline Adjustable rear track rods

Whiteline duel adjustment front tie rods

HICAS removed, replaced with fixed rack

Solid subframe bushes

all bushes replaced yadayada

Body

Genuine plastic GTR body kit

(front bar, front lip, sideskirts, side/rear pods)

electric fold mirrors

GTR projector headlights

debadged

LED parkers/ plate lights

interior

Sparco steering wheel

CF gearstick knob

brand new leather gearstick and hand brake boot

Sony indash flip-up DVD player

6X9 Alpine rear speakers in pods, 6" in front doors

greddy boost gauge mounted in the drivers airvent spot

uncracked dash

blue faced dielas

LED dials/ interior lights, map lights. f**king bright

great condition interior....realy quite nice

greddy turbo timer

all electrics working

original skyline floor mats full set

immobilizer

remote central locking

alarm

NOW the interesting part

Full paperwork for the modifications engineered and regency approved for the ...

FMIC,

piping,

ALL DRIVE TRAIN including HICAS lockbars

adjustable everything,

subframe bushes

coilovers, and more,

Set up legally atm so its fairly taim in stance, i dont have it low and i run very little camber cos i do daily KMs, very easy to set it up aggressive though, very easy.

also fully tuned safely for 210rwkw

NOT CHEAP!tongue.gif

the bad bits

thrust bearing noisy needs replacing ($300) this may be done soon anyway. no bad feel though the box just noisy bearing.

its not a GTR

ask me for any more picks you want. i drive it daily so its in Thebarton allot.

test pilots will not be tolerated, i sell cars for a living and not interested in games

i fully understand you can buy a gtr for not much more. look at them then look at this one then make your decision.

if you think you can find or build this car and engineer it for even close to this figure then off yo go.....im a nice guy though :)

ok time for picks

Glyn 0413145430

Adelaide SA

Registered Driven daily

happy to have a chat

happy to help arrange postage probably cheaper than you can.

RightFQTR_4.jpg

Front3.jpg

Frontside.jpg

Front_1.jpg

LeftFQTR_2.jpg

LeftFQTR_.jpg

LeftRQRT_4.jpg

LeftRQRT_3.jpg

exhaust.jpg

RightRQTR_2.jpg

rearlights_3.jpg

rearlights1.jpg

RightRQTR_4.jpg

Lights.jpg

LeftRQRT_2.jpg

i have allot more photos :P

pm me

Edited by GH05T
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah its not over the top even with its size

size was playing with the idea of an xforce or similar muffler with a servo valve for uiet daily dutys and noisy weekends though

exited for monday to have the new split dump pipe properly plumbed in and a retune

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had her serviced today and got the screamer plumbed in to the dump,

i forgot how smooth the rb20 sounds on boost at good revs without the harsh screamer wrecking the note, really opens the sound of my muffler up. very very happy.

also they found my ball joint was not quite right in some way so dealt with that too.

didnt have time in the day to tune so thats still possibly on the cards, it has a tune but with changes i was gonna get the tune neatened up a bit.

have had some interest shown but might put it on car sales soon, so far i have it here and the R31sc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Haha why do you think I have to sell this car to buy my next, I would happily turn up the boost, and get into the suspension and get the low and camber happening again and make this a weekender and daily the new car.

But missus sais no

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
    • NO HITS PRICE DROP   ENGINE - $8.5k ONO TRANSMISSION - $1.8k ONO  
    • If it has had a code in the recent past, the code should still be there waiting to be read.
×
×
  • Create New...