Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

get a ball bearing 2871r core into your rb20 or rb25 housings, for response use the rb20 housings, for more mid to top use the rb25 housing

also, use a good boost controller to bring it on early and keep it on as long as possible, if possible get some ethanol too and wind up the timing with a tune and 20psi of boost..

Ahh yep , well , tune , cam gears etc . It will never make full boost under 4k with that turbo (nor will most after market turbos)

currently making 15psi at 3.7k on a hyper SS1 still need cam gear adjust, advance cas timming and a tune

That's a hypergear , not gcg :P . I will change my statement , just for you my good friend :) , i have never seen a gcg high flowed turbo make full boost under 4k :) . That's pretty good old mate , even my old 2530 didn't make that by then!

That's a hypergear , not gcg :P . I will change my statement , just for you my good friend :) , i have never seen a gcg high flowed turbo make full boost under 4k :) . That's pretty good old mate , even my old 2530 didn't make that by then!

I presume you are talking about an RB20 - if you look at my chart above you will see it makes full boost by 3500 rev/min on my old RB25

hey guys had a quick look at some stuff today. the actuator rod wasnt adjustable but i removed it and put it back on it wasnt realy hard but it had no freeplay. i got some numbers off the turbo plate aswell.

on the turbo : ae147

xtrgtsts1

on the actuator its probs not a part number though: nissan asn79-

i also noticed that i have a leaking fuel injector that i will have to fix.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have two German Shepherds that like to bite things that are in places they shouldn't be. Plus the cars/batteries on chargers are inside a locked garage, inside that fully fenced and locked yard. If you can get the car out, you can have it, as I'll be having one hell of a laugh at your expense.
    • Looks like they changed the wording in the manual for the new model. I have a different model. Mine is CC1206. Not CC1206-XLI. Mine doesn't support lithium at all. I can't find the manual for my model online and they don't list the model on the Century website anymore either. In my manual it says what I quoted and that they recommend to not leave it on 🤷‍♂️ Sounds like you'd be fine with this one now.
    • Thanks for actually answering every single point! I noticed the date only after posting. And yes, looks like things have changed a little bit since then. FWIW, looks like Government Gazette No 253 has the current emissions test procedure. Sounds pretty reasonable altogether. One thing I learned from this is that it's possible to check whether a catalyst does any work by measuring the temperature. Catalyst outlet temp is at least 40°C higher than inlet temps if there is a reaction happening. I'd be curious to check this on mine but don't have a thermometer. Because purely going by smell it can't be doing much. Personally I'd be okay to pay for the test as long as it's within reason. My main concern would be to lose my rego because it definitely wouldn't pass the test in its current state. I'll see if I can do a bit more digging and see what's involved in doing this nowadays.   To be fair I don't think it's stopping many people from doing the modifications anyway. It just puts a barrier up to doing things right  
    • Uhhh if anyone sees this - I bought a BRZ years ago, on my fulls soon so back on the market for the R34!
    • Research research research, and tackle the important things first, like the rust, because as a wise old hippie and some crazy horses once said "rust never sleeps" Nothing good comes easy and fast, and nothing that comes easy and fast is typically good
×
×
  • Create New...