Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just had Yokohama A539's fitted, and they seem to work very adequately. No slip in wet/dry at all yet. at $212 (now 199, grrrr) they were pretty reasonable i thought.... well, compared to Sava Intensa's they are fantasitc, but what do you expect?

Goodyear F1's are the worst tyres in the wet, they grip well when they're cold in the wet, but once they warm up you'll be sliding all over the place. They also tramline pretty bad.

Federal Tyres is developed by Sumitomo Rubber Industries Ltd. Japan

Latest Goodyear Eagle F1 have a AA wet braking rating and seem pretty good compared to the others I have used on the rear. Also Continental SportContact on front were good at my last race with nice feel and predictable breakaway. I pay $100 per tyre so go through them quick with an agressive setup. Combination was better than Pirelli P6000

All in 17's 235 front and 255 rear

thanks for the replies guys. at the moment i'm looking at the bridgestone SO series and the Toyo. As it being for my stock 15" i wouldn't wanna spend much on it cause i might swap it later for 17" when i get the money together. So yea my budget would be no more than around $120 - $130 per tyre. Have anyone use the Maxis MAV1, is that any good?

Cheers

I have a set of Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3's on my GTR at the moment. Done about 7,000kms on them and they are wearing very well. Don't know what funky is on about though, from my experience they are awesome in the wet regardless of how hot they are. Very confident of them in the wet, never feels slippery or aquaplaney.. They do tramline a bit, but I think most tyres over 245 size do that to a degree, GTR's i've heard are notorious for it too...

They are exxy but I was given wrong info on load ratings when I was looking which dictated me getting expensive tyres.. Still I'm more than happy with them..

Brett

The Eagles are good while straight driving in the wet, however when cornering they don't grip as well as my current tyre a set of Michelin Pilots. When cornering the Eagles tend to make the back slide a lil bit more than the Pilots. I have a S bend at the end of my road which I go thru at about 45 in the wet and about 60 when dry usually. The Eagles require a lot more control than the Pilots where I can trust the tyre to grip.

I still have Eagles on the front tyres and Pilots on the back, so far this set up I've found to be the best, the Pilots weren't as good as the Eagles on the front tyres... I don't know why.

I based the Eagles not working too well when hot on the fact that under heavy braking they'll grip for a while (5 seconds) then screech like crazy. After that every time I did any heavy braking they refuse to grip (I assume because they are now hot).

EVLR33, your friends are on crack.

I've done hillclimbs, cruises, autokhana's etc with 540's and they are brilliant, especially when on heat. Hell we even did Targa on 540's in 2000 and they were fantastic. As for tread, ever seen a new 540? tons of it :D

Not having a dig but those views you posted go against everyone elses i've heard on them

Can only go by what I'm told, and yes they are apparently pretty awesome in the dry, but as I said a few people I know aren't as happy about the wet weather performance. Personal opinion I guess differs greatly regarding what people class as good or bad performing tyres..

Regarding the tread, i meant that it's pretty much a slick tyre with a few grooves cut into it, nothing like a conventional wet weather tyre. And because of that I assumed they wouldn't be so great..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
    • Hmmm, interesting. Makes me wonder whether there is bias as well. It's the cheapest fuel, so it is used for all kinds of ill-maintained shitboxes which are bound to have issues regardless. Nicer cars tend to require higher octane rated fuel and can't use it anyway. FWIW, the official NSW E10 facts page is decent. 
×
×
  • Create New...