Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I looked into it as much as i could, and took a few more photos. I found a two prong hose sort of thing that looks like it used to be on the solenoid? just a guess though. and i can see its been attached to another hose thats attached to itself maybe? and then that hose attaches to the golden looking round thing, i got that in a photo too.

Hope these photos explain whats going on a little more

post-78310-0-79711600-1347684029_thumb.jpg

post-78310-0-72636100-1347683759_thumb.jpgpost-78310-0-71394500-1347683767_thumb.jpgpost-78310-0-84699200-1347683775_thumb.jpgpost-78310-0-98690200-1347683780_thumb.jpgpost-78310-0-59937600-1347683791_thumb.jpg

Edited by hop1308

Right, so in your first image with the red circles, the circled item on the right I think is your boost solenoid. We saw that in one of your earlier photos. It's not connected to anything, so we can forget about that.

The leftmost circled item in that photo is essentially a T piece (it looks like an F, but works like a T!!). The bottom is connected to the wastegate actuator (the cad plated can at the front of the turbo) and that is where your middle circle is.

So the top two connections from the "T" used to go somewhere useful. One leg would have gone to the boost solenoid, and the other would have had to pick up a boost signal, possibly from the compressor housing, possibly from the compressor outlet pipe.

If you look at the photos that show the "T" you will also see a fourth hose that passes into the same sheath heading towards the back of the engine and going down towards the front of the turbo. I would lay odd on that hase being connected to a hose barb on the compressor housing. Not all R34 turbos have a connection there though. if you look at the photo in this for sale thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/409257-std-r34-neo-turbo-like-new/ you will see the spot where a fitting would be drilled and tapped into the front of the housing, but there is none there. My R34 turbo however, does have a fitting on the turbo.

Anyway, what you need to do is find where all of those hoses that I've just talked about go, what they are connected to, draw a map on paper and take a photo of it.

What should happen, if the stock solenoid is not being used and no other boost controller is being used, is that the hose that is connected to the wastegate actuator should just connect effectively direct to the boost source, with no leaks anywhere. The fact that you have 14+psi tells us that there could well be another boost controller hiding in there somewhere (a simple bost T or other bleeder) or that some idiot has just bodged together the hoses and left a leak.

14 psi will destroy your turbo. 14 psi is too much boost for a factory computer and it will rich and retard like fuel was only 20c/litre. You need to work out what is going on and fix it. If this is all too hard, take it to someone. Anyone who knows turbos will be able to work out what is going on in about 5 minutes.

cheers

lol this'll make my head explode, i reckon i wont be able to do it right after looking at how tightly packed everything is today. do you know about how much someone that'll look at it for me would charge? and hopefully anyone good in sydney (blacktown area) that knows this sorta stuff?

maybe i should stop flat footing it until then lol

It's hard to get the full story of what's happening here. I did notice in picture #3 & 4 that we don't really see what's happening with the recirc valve. The recirc is the matte aluminium can that has the blue hose on it. It should have a vacuum hose on it as part of the boost control system.

Also, take off the useless snorkel you have there (large black plastic bit in pic 4), and remove the NEO cover plate and post another picture of the recirc valve. What we need to know is where the two hoses from the actuator (brass tin can) are going, so include photos of those two hoses.

FYI I have the stock boost gauge, and a GFB manual boost controller. With the boost set to 10psi, the boost gauge is 9/10 up to the +1 mark.

If you want to limp your car into the CBD area, me and a mate can take a look at it. PM.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See my post here If you put the Haltech in, you won't have to worry about any of that. And, in case you're worrying about my lack of credentials in doing your exact swap, I put a Neo in an R32. There has never been a stock boost solenoid near my car and the Neo's ECU has never cared. Nor should it, because it is electronically impossible for it to care.
    • That's 100% wrong. Did you wire in the boost sensor? If you did not, then that is 101% your answer. Neo ECUs do suck a bit.
    • Hello, I'm trying to make this thread basically the thread with all the answers to common questions regarding specifically the RB20 DE NEO + T engine, that comes in the R34. Answers will and only should be provided by those who have done this conversion or actually have some relevant real life experience please. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments if you have any so other members can answer. I feel like this thread is really needed, especially with more Americans buying (unknowingly going to regret it too) rb20 neo r34s. My first question being - What do you guys use for tuning? I have purchased a haltech elite 2500 Plug and play kit for the rb25det NEO because the ecu plug is the same, but I am unsure if any of the pins would need to be repined to match. Second question that I see asked very often - After this conversion, did you install the boost solenoid/ actuator? I see many people doing a + T setup on their rb20 NEOs while running stock RB25DET NEO ECUs with no tune. I am wondering how they are going about doing that and consistently abusing the car because many of these people have had these untuned setups running for a very long time. That was my original plan, but my engine cuts out at 5 psi of boost using the stock ecu with no tune and no boost solenoid/actuator.
    • interesting. ive read and heard otherwise over the past year. ive been doing this +t conversion on a rb20 neo using all oem rb25det neo parts including the ECU, and im having engine cut out issues when I hit around 5 psi of boost. Everywhere/everyone ive asked has told me its because I never wired in a boost solenoid/actuator to the ecu, so the ecu isn't getting the right signal once it hits 5 psi of boost, causing the engine to get shut off.
×
×
  • Create New...