Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Am chasing after some new tyres as the ones i have are rock hard compound, as now SLY is a weekend car am chasing after something nice and soft so i can give it a bit without slipping whilst driving my car in my private car park.

I have spoken to some guys and need advice these are the 2 I have been offered and need your thoughts:

1. i think it's kumho supra ecsta - 255/40/r17 ok i have these offered to me at $240 each are these good tyres for $$$ need something soft and grip a bit better.

2. federal - v rated 255/40/r17 have these offered to me at $207 each, same reasons as to why i need them, something soft and gives me good launch and grip through gears.

I have done a search in the tyre section of forums on these two but not much help.... any of you guys able to help me on the individual tyres?

I am trying to keep my budget to $200 per tyre as in the next couple of months $$$ will be goin elsewhere....

Thanks in advance guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40906-tyres-federal-or-kumho/
Share on other sites

I have the Kumho Ecsta 255/40/17 on the rear of my car, good summer tyres because they are quite a hard compound but in the wet ............. they are like driving around on bars of soap, no traction at the rear and bad understeer on the front, I have done about 15 000K's on them and the rears have about 5000k max left in them.

Thanks R33 Impul - Hmmmm so a no go on them then by the sounds of it..... still need a bit of traction i guess in the wet...... and only last 20,000 k, not very long really, the ones i have on the rear have done 30,000 and prob still have about 10,000 left to go but very vig traction issues with them, Dunlop Le mans 602 i think they are.... bloody hard compoud so not much grip :-(

Anyone had and luck with the federal ones??

I have the Kumho Ecsta 255/40/17 on the rear of my car, good summer tyres because they are quite a hard compound but in the wet ............. they are like driving around on bars of soap, no traction at the rear and bad understeer on the front, I have done about 15 000K's on them and the rears have about 5000k max left in them.

im finding same problem .... mine have done about 15,000 now as well and i think i already have "eggs" in them and they are sounding really noisy on the road..... i dont think they are going to see this year out :thumbsup:

And yes im starting to find traction a problem too ...... good tyre when new but seem to be wearing rather quick. :)

I have the Kumho Ecsta Supra's on my 34...were on there when i bought the car... Done close to 30k kay's on them and have found them good all-round tyre...rears are just about shot but fronts still good...would get them again as very good value for money...but then again i drive like grandpa :D

i have ecsta supras on my NA :D

theyre good, done about 15 thousand km's on them since january when i got them... and the rear ones got worn a bit, front are fine so ive rotated them... but yeah... so far so good they seem to be a very grippy tyre. oh and yeah, my driving has been a little... harsh.. which is bad for tyres. :)

i am learning a very expensive lesson.... i have to start driving like a granny... well ... most of the time :)

Rob I'd say the Corsa rates over the Nero.

But for average road user who wants high grip i'd recommend the Bridgestone RE540 or the RE55 TT(middle range compound heaps up nicely and then grip all day).

With any high grip tyre don't expect much tread to be left on the rears anyway when i used to run 540's and kuhmo's on my ute on the front they'd last for ever

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...