Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellas going to be doing a turbo swap on my 33 this saturday, and im after advice on how to get it off with out breaking any bolts or studs!

any tips for me here? im going to spray a ton of super release on every bolt every night until saturday morning.

but apart from that im stumped!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409061-advice-on-turbo-bolts/
Share on other sites

hey fellas going to be doing a turbo swap on my 33 this saturday, and im after advice on how to get it off with out breaking any bolts or studs!

any tips for me here? im going to spray a ton of super release on every bolt every night until saturday morning.

but apart from that im stumped!

Strongly advise you to take off the manifold and change all the studs at the same time.

You are highly likely to find there are 1-2 broken already as it is... So better to spend extra and do it now, rather than deal with it later on especially if you are upgrading the turbo which will be more heat and so on.

To note: you will break some studs in the head. Not many people get them all out without breaking any. In this instance call the "thread doctor". There is usually one guy in each state and getting them to do it is far cheaper/easier than trying to DIY for that particular job.

thanks every one, may just change the dump.frobt pipe on saturday then, and do the turbs when i have more time,,,, cant risk not finishing it saturday as its going in for work wednesday.

What turbo u putting in it platts...gimme a call if you want a hand mate, just book thread doctor in advance, you will need him..i didnt even undo my manifold bolts i let him do it, still broke 5 only 2 needed drilling though..dont think he works Saturdays either..

IF you end up snapping a few bolts on the turbo manifold, pray that it's not flush.

If there is some bolt thread still sticking out, a method that my mate and I came up with is to angle grind two sides of the bolt to make it both sides have a flat surface. Then spray the sht out of it with WD40 and wait for a bit, before using an adjustable wrench to twist back and forth. Eventually you'll be able to twist the bolt out.

I found the problem not to be the bolt but the turbo housing. With the stock dump pipe, the flange is a lot thicker than an aftermarket one, so that means that during the 15+ years that the bolt was on, rust has actually settled on the reverse side where there is space in the thread hole. Obviously if the aftermarket dump has a thinner flange, the bolt that you'll be using will travel further into the housing, which will be caught in the rust and seize. After that that's when snap bolt situations come into play.

What turbo u putting in it platts...gimme a call if you want a hand mate, just book thread doctor in advance, you will need him..i didnt even undo my manifold bolts i let him do it, still broke 5 only 2 needed drilling though..dont think he works Saturdays either..

ball sacks!

its just another standard turbs for the min in a lot better condition than mine, a 45v3 but like i said that can wait until mine blows up!

im strappin a new dump pipe/ front pipe bellmouth on there tho so feel free to head over buddy!

thinkin turbodragon might come down as well, he seemed pretty keen so ill grab some beers!

IF you end up snapping a few bolts on the turbo manifold, pray that it's not flush.

If there is some bolt thread still sticking out, a method that my mate and I came up with is to angle grind two sides of the bolt to make it both sides have a flat surface. Then spray the sht out of it with WD40 and wait for a bit, before using an adjustable wrench to twist back and forth. Eventually you'll be able to twist the bolt out.

I found the problem not to be the bolt but the turbo housing. With the stock dump pipe, the flange is a lot thicker than an aftermarket one, so that means that during the 15+ years that the bolt was on, rust has actually settled on the reverse side where there is space in the thread hole. Obviously if the aftermarket dump has a thinner flange, the bolt that you'll be using will travel further into the housing, which will be caught in the rust and seize. After that that's when snap bolt situations come into play.

cool, ill keep all this in mind.

fellas overwhelmed by the help on this, had started to loose faith with sau, alot of wankrs being wankrs! but youve pulled me back round fellas.

What turbo u putting in it platts...gimme a call if you want a hand mate, just book thread doctor in advance, you will need him..i didnt even undo my manifold bolts i let him do it, still broke 5 only 2 needed drilling though..dont think he works Saturdays either..

forgot im puttin in a catch can and a metal intake at the same time.

bring your 33 round mate! then when andrew turns up in his we will have a little race thru the housing estate.

(joke. street racing is bad and illegal)

(but fun)

because

cool, ill keep all this in mind.

fellas overwhelmed by the help on this, had started to loose faith with sau, alot of wankrs being wankrs! but youve pulled me back round fellas.

just spot the ones that work on their cars and their mates cars vs. those who pay people to do everything, even to change their light bulbs.

man with penis vs. man with vagina.

when you start undoing the bolts and it snags, just slowly do them back in and then back out, don't force them they will snap like what Ph@t-G did when I took off for a few hours that day lol....

and lucky that lancer motor was around, free bolts LOL

because

just spot the ones that work on their cars and their mates cars vs. those who pay people to do everything, even to change their light bulbs.

man with penis vs. man with vagina.

when you start undoing the bolts and it snags, just slowly do them back in and then back out, don't force them they will snap like what Ph@t-G did when I took off for a few hours that day lol....

and lucky that lancer motor was around, free bolts LOL

LOVE IT!

hey, just thinking if i snap some bolts changing the dumper, can i just replace them with stainless nuts and bolts?

have heard stainless is not good on exhaust connections, tends to gall. Hi tensile loses it's hi tensile-ness too once heated, just new steel bolts and nuts with a burred flange head will be fine.

Definitely change the studs on exhaust manifold, as said by others, if some not already broken then soon will, replace with new.

If you take dump and front pipe off as one piece it should be fine..

sounds like a plan, you up for it davey? few beers/bourbons/rums init for ya?!

not that ill need much help, just get bored talkin to my self. ha!

have heard stainless is not good on exhaust connections, tends to gall. Hi tensile loses it's hi tensile-ness too once heated, just new steel bolts and nuts with a burred flange head will be fine.

Definitely change the studs on exhaust manifold, as said by others, if some not already broken then soon will, replace with new.

cheers buddy!

yea ill replace the manifold and or the bolts a little later on, gonna leave my turbo on for now until it blows, then swap em over and send the knackered one for a hi-flow!

have heard stainless is not good on exhaust connections, tends to gall. Hi tensile loses it's hi tensile-ness too once heated, just new steel bolts and nuts with a burred flange head will be fine.

Definitely change the studs on exhaust manifold, as said by others, if some not already broken then soon will, replace with new.

the man is right on the money!

This thread might also give you a bit of heads up before you start working. At least this way you know what to expect in terms of procedures.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/129061-installing-3-dumpfront-and-high-flow-cat/

Good luck with it man and hope you don't snap bolts!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I used the radium thing, makes the whole parallel assembly a lot more compact compared to any other way of doing it 
    • Racetronix also sells those ethanol content sensor bypass blocks. Adapter, Flex-Fuel E85 Sensor High-Flow Bypass, In-line No Sensor (ADF-FLEX-NS): Adapters - Flex Fuel | Racetronix Ethanol content sensor are originally designed to be on the feed line. These bypass blocks are meant to be ran in the feed line and not return. The continental ethanol content sensors have a 3/8" ID and not 5/16". This is why they are ran on the return line directly in conjunction with a low threshold sampling value VS in the feed with one of these blocks.    Haha we think alike, I used both original feed/return for 8AN feed, and one of the Hicas lines as a 6AN return. I also capped off and left the other Hicas line as a spare. 
    • Interesting, I haven't read about the issue with oil getting into the speedo in the cluster before. I'll have to take more notice with mine. The speedo on my R32's when I've run factory diff and tyre size have never been accurate as far as I can remember. The non Type-M GTS-t did come with 15" 5 stud wheels and smaller brakes, but that's less than 5% of them.
    • Good to hear the condenser you picked up off my brother worked all good. Do you think there could be an issue with your AC compressor itself or the clutch on it then? I don't know a lot about them so I can't really help but keen to hear what it ends up being. Keep the build thread going man, it's nice to look back on over time.
    • This is a story of my life things, I learned eventually (thanks to someone calling me out) that my enthusiasm for discussing and sharing ideas that it came across as arrogance and I'm like... WTF?!    One thing I'm pretty sure I justifiably pride myself on is knowing that everyone will have things they can teach you, and you're always going to find out that something you think you know turns out wrong - you just don't know what it is until you get there.   Just the bursting enthusiasm that comes with ADHD when you hit something that gives you dopamine dumps can come across like you think everyone else is wrong or don't matter. But yeah, I'm a software engineer by trade and also do tuning in weekends and 100% have long had a reputation for  quickly making connections when resolving problems or forming solutions that I've sometimes had to take people form a long walk from start to end to explain how I ended up where I did when it's seemed "too simple" when I've stated my initial case, and had the "WTF" type reaction when they've realised how much was actually considered haha.   My reward is that I get all the curly problems thrown at me.
×
×
  • Create New...