Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Sorry to start another one of these threads, but I've done a search and didn't find anything that quite matches my symptoms, so I was hoping someone here may be able to point me in the right direction. To cut to the chase, here is what my engine is doing:

http://youtu.be/-g0nValrfZY

Basically it struggles to return to idle after a quick blip of the throttle, and under higher load (longer rev or while driving) it stalls as soon as it comes off throttle. Now normally I would say this is pretty symptomatic of a vacuum leak, however my car is running on a MAP sensor. I really don't have any experience with how an engine functions on MAP sensors, but I was under the impression that air leaks would not cause the car to stall, is that correct? Is this more likely to be something like the IAC valve? If I turn the air con on and give it a quick blip, the engine will stall; so that leads me to believe it is the IAC?

A bit more of a background, I have JUST finished putting the engine back together following a full cylinder head recondition. The only things that have changed since I last drove the car are Tomei Type-B poncams (possible timing issue??), valve springs/retainers, and bronze valve guides. I have checked for air leaks, but everything seems tight and as previously mentioned, the car is on MAP. My external wastegate is also a leak at the moment as it seems to be stuck permanently open, but I didn't think this would cause the stalling issues?

Thanks for any help,

Martin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409075-car-stalling-on-decel/
Share on other sites

Probably need to get computer tune touched up. Maybe because of the new cams and flow rates of your head. Could have put

your ignition out of wack. Used to happen to my GTR, got it retuned and now I dont have any problems. But, then again it really could be something to do with getting your head put back on.

Yeh, that's what I'm worried about. If it's an issue with the tune then that's fine, I can get it to the tuners and they can do their thing. But I'm HIGHLY reluctant to give my car to the tuner when it's got issues, lest they then be stuck trying to sort out my shit :/

If your wastegate is stuck open this would mean it has no vac/boost signal? So maybe the vac line you have hooked up to it is leaking through the wastegate straight to atmo? Causing both issues?

Try raising the idle screw on IAC. Make sure its plugged in.

Be sure ignition timing is correct. But it sounds as tho its just in the tune.

Did u have cams last time it was tuned?

Not being experienced with MAP tunes, but does it utilise a deceleration fuel cut like AFM based ECUs?

I had a mate fully ulleh BOV and increasing the deceleration fuel cut rpm stopped it stalling off throttle blips or hey cruising.

Unfortunately with the Plazmaman, adjusting the idle screw on the IAC is impossible. But I guess if it's quite possible it's an issue with the tune being out then I'll sort out the wastegate and just get it to the tuners.

No not at all, it was perfect. But it's had some pretty major work done since it's been driving, and it's the first time I've removed/reinstalled a cylinder head. With the car running on MAP, I wasn't sure what I should be looking for; didn't want to take it to my tuner with potential leaks or other problems all over the place.

Problems like this:

560354_10151017032802541_1906570586_n.jpg

Anyone else seen a bent valve on a Turbosmart wastegate before, or know whether replacement parts can be had? I'm confused about how it happened, but I have a suspicion. The car backfired on start-up the other day, found a massive patch of soot directly under the screamer pipe afterwards, so it's clearly backfired through the wastegate. No idea why, or if it would cause this damage.

Ahhh true, I just had a look at the Turbosmart product info, and yes I'm missing the valve seat! I don't even remember it at all... Now I wonder where that could have got too :unsure:

That's a relief though, thanks Scotty! :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
    • Selling a SMIC for a Nissan Stagea C34 Series 2 and the pipe from the intercooler to inlet. (I believe it is the same R34 GTT, please correct me if I'm wrong) Price: $50? I dont have a photo of the big black pipe that goes from SMIC outlet to throttle body.
    • So the original radiator is leaking now. Looking at getting a fully aluminium one next. Am I correct in saying that the Series 2 Auto Stageas have a separate trans cooler from factory (located in between the rad and intercooler in my previous post/message).   Currently looking at Fenix $460, Blitz $700, GReddy $800, and KoyoRad $740. What are everyones thought on Fenix ( ive read a few comments saying theyre cheap Chinese rebrands etc and how their build quality is... well.. chinese...)  compared to the others? Worth the extra couple hundies?
×
×
  • Create New...