Opinions Regarding Garett 2860 -5S On An Rb26

[R33-RB26DETT]

Plus you'd still need to do transfer case, front/rear diff, suspension. They make the biggest difference dollar vs gains IMO over power/rebuild - just there is 10k on its own. So add in another 15k for the motor and everything and you've done 25k there. Hence why my GTR was such a bargin really @ 30k, and sold easily

I've already got coil overs, but i'm curious about the front/rear diff and transfer case modifications that you're mentioned. So you think that by modifying these two elements it make a significant improvement to overall setup/performance? What specifically would you recommend is modified with the transfer case?

I think you are after the kick in the back of the head that only a big single can deliver

transitional power from smaller twins is definitely not as exciting... but more useable in everyday conditions....

Or put GT RS's or 2540's on there. That will give that feeling !

Yeah that's not what i'm sure about since i've personally never been in a car with this setup, all I really have to go off are track videos and word of mouth. That's what makes it so hard to determine if it's worth pouring more money into a whole new setup. My gut feeling is that you always get used/bored of the power, probably even with a big single, but i'm not sure. I take on board the other points that there is room for improvement with the current set up, but I guess i'm still curious as to whether the -5s would put a larger smile on my dial on a daily basis but also work well on the track.

[Piggaz]

but I guess i'm still curious as to whether the -5s would put a larger smile on my dial on a daily basis but also work well on the track.

I spose only you can decide that as everyone's level of acceptable "boost threshold" and "lag" are different.

Maybe hit up a few club members to take you for a spin of what you think you're after?

[R31Nismoid]

I've already got coil overs, but i'm curious about the front/rear diff and transfer case modifications that you're mentioned. So you think that by modifying these two elements it make a significant improvement to overall setup/performance? What specifically would you recommend is modified with the transfer case?/

Good timing to ask that as I drove a mates GTR without diffs/transfer case mods all day on Saturday @ SAU-Vic event, doing the same courses that i did in my old GTR that had diffs & transfer case mods... It had similar brakes/suspension to mine so the cars were as similar as they were going to get really

I give a massive hell yes to going and doing them. My car had so much more traction than his - everywhere.

Was nowhere near a tail happy, outta the blocks a lot faster, could 4 wheel power slide in oversteer far easier (easy to navigate a long 180 degree movement on a skidpan). Only issue is the car is less friendly as a daily driver if you do the diffs. Transfer case no problem.

I'm also talking $4000 worth of suspension here though don't forget, not your usualy $1500 coilover setup. I had a cheap setup and going to the more expensive stuff I REALLY noticed a difference. Car could carry much more corner speed especially in the hills for instance.

Yeah that's not what i'm sure about since i've personally never been in a car with this setup, all I really have to go off are track videos and word of mouth. That's what makes it so hard to determine if it's worth pouring more money into a whole new setup. My gut feeling is that you always get used/bored of the power, probably even with a big single, but i'm not sure. I take on board the other points that there is room for improvement with the current set up, but I guess i'm still curious as to whether the -5s would put a larger smile on my dial on a daily basis but also work well on the track.

My suggestion would be to head to a Sandown trackday (like Paul has suggested) when a few VIC GTR's are entered, go whore a few passenger rides if they have passenger sessions. Always best to work out what you want by experiencing it sometimes. I had guys in my car with -9s on it and some with -5s - some prefered the -9, some the -5 so everyone is different really.

-5s on the street are only good if you are in license loss territory IMO. If I still owned my GTR i'd gladly take you for a run, but alas, i sold it

[sydking]

I've already got coil overs, but i'm curious about the front/rear diff and transfer case modifications that you're mentioned. So you think that by modifying these two elements it make a significant improvement to overall setup/performance? What specifically would you recommend is modified with the transfer case?

Yeah that's not what i'm sure about since i've personally never been in a car with this setup, all I really have to go off are track videos and word of mouth. That's what makes it so hard to determine if it's worth pouring more money into a whole new setup. My gut feeling is that you always get used/bored of the power, probably even with a big single, but i'm not sure. I take on board the other points that there is room for improvement with the current set up, but I guess i'm still curious as to whether the -5s would put a larger smile on my dial on a daily basis but also work well on the track.

I was in the same boat - And having never driven GTss or Any turbo Rb for that matter the coice was hard as most people here know

I agree the -5's always sound better on paper and when people talk about them, They were also the most poluar turbo choice at one statge from looking at the dyno thread.

But, I did take a ride in Levinboys GTR with a properly set up -9/gtss combination. That thing was a dam animal and sitting on around 22-25 psi if i can remeber corectly.

Transition on boost was quite smooth which is what i think the -5s would feel alot rougher and "faster" ramping up. But boy this thing was quick.

Mine is only for weekend street duties, So thats another thing to take into account.

[sydking]

Also, Might help if you listed all your supporting mods?

[levinboy]

But, I did take a ride in Levinboys GTR with a properly set up -9/gtss combination. That thing was a dam animal and sitting on around 22-25 psi if i can remeber corectly.

Was on 18psi at the time, now at 22-24psi making 350-360awkw will be going in for more refinement on the tune soon

[gtr jet]

Gday guys, i'm running -7's at the moment on a fairly standard car with a built bottom end and was also curious as to the difference when changing to -5's.

My car is mainly for the street and the odd track day though so i thought it would be a bit of a waste. I was more curious as to how much more i could push the turbo's i have now if i switched to E85? Can someone link me to a thread if there is something related to this.

[SS8_Gohan]

what power do you have a the moment and what boost? my guess would be around 320rwkw on E85? still plenty of fun - IMO, if you're not tracking the car much don't go bigger than -9's

[NissanForLife]

I have -5's on my car, and they are awesome to say the least. I'm running it on E85 now, but not for more power, just for reliability over 98.

Whilst I have built my own engines and cars throughout my life, I bought my car already modified this time from a really good bloke here on SAU, and all I can say is I'm so glad I bought the right car with all of the suspension mods and big brakes and diff's etc, because the whole GTR experience is all about handling, not power, even though at 400KW it is considered a fair bit for a circuit/street car.

Concentrate on your Camber and castor settings with a good set of well tuned coil-overs.

RacePace do a nice mod changing the dampening/rebound and spring tension to Tein Superstreets, which are only an entry level item, but they make them into a really good useable street and circuit shock all round, which perform better than some high end items, and they suit the Australian roads very nicely. To stiff shocks on Australian roads can be a disaster waiting to happen.

If you understand basic handling characteristics and how a tyre needs to behave on a track surface to obtain maximum grip, then there is a tonne of things to start tinkering with in order to make it drive correctly.

A well setup GTR that is focussed on handling is like nothing else. The circuit is a tonne of fun in my car, but the street feels unbelievable, and I would not want anything more done to my car for street purposes thats for sure.

My car is pretty much an ultimate GTR for all round driving, and it still demolishes a lot of cars at the track too.

Aaron the fellow who built my car through RacePace did a fantastic job in making it nearly exactly to my liking.

My advice is to focus on suspension, Diffs, and brakes, and then practice at the track, it is so much more rewarding and fun that just chasing HP your whole life.

Everyone these days wants HP and drag times......why, it's just an endless spending venture to see who can piss the furtherest. I used to be a drag nut in my younger years with building my own carbied V8's and learning the science of NA performance engines, but as soon as the one dimensional fun of drag racing was soon becoming old and turning into a spend too much money game, I turned to the real sport of 3 dimensions, circuit racing, I have never looked back. Once you get the circuit bug, you cant shake it very easily at all. I have also become to appreciate so many cars and types because of it too, which is only fuelling my motorsport passion even further.

The whole circuit experience is a much better crowd of people IMO, and being able to drive your car fast up the straights, whilst navigating your next turn in point after nailing the perfect braking mark and turning in at 180+KM/HR is just sooo much better than driving in straight lines.

I am thinking about changing my coilovers to a set of stiffer items for more circuit work in the near future, and it will achieve better lap times than what it has already achieved, but I will have to be aware and careful on public roads with the unexpected bumps.

Anyway, enough of me rambling, but that's just my 2 cents worth.

I hope your GTR experience improves, and I can guarantee you with the right handling mods, you will be absolutely gob smacked and amazed at what your car could achieve, even with 300KW. Have fun mate.

[R31Nismoid]

Key bit of info you left out there...

You have a HKS 2.8 stroker, that changes how the -5s drive quite noticeably as well don't forget

[NissanForLife]

Hahaha, yeah how did that slip my mind.....lol. Yes your dead right with that key bit of info. It feels like a V8 in torque terms with this combo.

[Piggaz]

Hahaha, yeah how did that slip my mind.....lol. Yes your dead right with that key bit of info. It feels like a V8 in torque terms with this combo.

They do really need that extra 200 cc/4 mm stroke with the 5's.

[cobrAA]

May I slightly go off-topic ?

I have GT-SS, pushing at 21psi, making 520whp on a dynapack.. My friend with same poncam type b but has expreme manifold,dump and nice intercooler and -5 make about 570whp at 21 psi on the same dynapack.

I have the opportunity to swap my GT-SS for GT2530 for free. I'm adding water-meth and timing tuning to the car next week and expect to be able to push 25psi safely, but i'm scared I will start/or be in the non-effience zone of the GT-SS while the GT2530 might still be effience at this boost level.

So, I'm wondering, would the gt2530 make me faster on the drag sttrip or it will make me ''think'' I'm faster because of how hard they hit vs. the smoother powerband of the gt-ss ?

2- Could the lag of the gt2530 be slightly dialed with cam tuning ? I love my gt-ss but i'm trying to figure out if the extra 50 ( or better.. maybe 75whp) is worth the extra ''lag'' I will be getting.

oh and something I didn't know, changing both diff could improve my traction ( meaning less power loss = more power) over oem diff? I tought the oem diff were high-quality.

[R31Nismoid]

First up the -5s should be making more than 50rwhp more. It should be near 100.

End of the day there are 100 threads on this topic, you need to up and decide for yourself really.

Changing diffs will help traction, always does. OEM diffs are not the best, especially after 15 years, they do need attention and it will help.

[33GTRV]

ive had -5s on a 26 and if i had my time again, for a streeter, i wouldn't do it again. Id look at n1 or similar as there are some proper fast street cars sporting these baby turbos and have great drivability

[Piggaz]

ive had -5s on a 26 and if i had my time again, for a streeter, i wouldn't do it again. Id look at n1 or similar as there are some proper fast street cars sporting these baby turbos and have great drivability

Need that stroker man.

[R33-RB26DETT]

Good timing to ask that as I drove a mates GTR without diffs/transfer case mods all day on Saturday @ SAU-Vic event, doing the same courses that i did in my old GTR that had diffs & transfer case mods... It had similar brakes/suspension to mine so the cars were as similar as they were going to get really

I give a massive hell yes to going and doing them. My car had so much more traction than his - everywhere.

Was nowhere near a tail happy, outta the blocks a lot faster, could 4 wheel power slide in oversteer far easier (easy to navigate a long 180 degree movement on a skidpan). Only issue is the car is less friendly as a daily driver if you do the diffs. Transfer case no problem.

I'm also talking $4000 worth of suspension here though don't forget, not your usualy $1500 coilover setup. I had a cheap setup and going to the more expensive stuff I REALLY noticed a difference. Car could carry much more corner speed especially in the hills for instance.

My suggestion would be to head to a Sandown trackday (like Paul has suggested) when a few VIC GTR's are entered, go whore a few passenger rides if they have passenger sessions. Always best to work out what you want by experiencing it sometimes. I had guys in my car with -9s on it and some with -5s - some prefered the -9, some the -5 so everyone is different really.

-5s on the street are only good if you are in license loss territory IMO. If I still owned my GTR i'd gladly take you for a run, but alas, i sold it

haha thanks Ash, yeah that would have been awesome, but doesn't matter.

I'm keen to head down to another Sandown track day, hopfully next time there will be another GTR with -5s there.

[R33-RB26DETT]

Also, Might help if you listed all your supporting mods?

Yep, should have included that good point.

R33 GTR RB26

Tomie sump baffle

ACL Race bearings

Adjustable cam gears

HKS oil cooler

Nismo oil/air seperator

Apexi power fc

Apexi boost controller

HKS GT-SS turbos

Work 10" x 18 rims

[R33-RB26DETT]

First up the -5s should be making more than 50rwhp more. It should be near 100.

End of the day there are 100 threads on this topic, you need to up and decide for yourself really.

Changing diffs will help traction, always does. OEM diffs are not the best, especially after 15 years, they do need attention and it will help.

Would upgrading to Tomie Type B poncams help increase my power and response as well?

Here's my dyno graph

[R31Nismoid]

Response? No.

Fixing your obvious boost control issues however would have a very noticeable gain.