Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Get out the sound meter :D

Your probably right about the acceptable level of noise from a whats legal perspective, but I drive it around with it shut, and only open it for track or big street runs.

They do flow, you were probably asking too much of a dual muffler 3.5" system really as you can never have such quiet and not have minor restriction at that size, for your power/flow levels. E85 just needs a bit more of everything - and certainly costly.

The first muffler on my setup was diagonal orientated with a perforated core, so when the air comes in it then hits next bend with the perforations in the side wall creating unwanted turbulence and vortices I suspect. In regards to a straight through muffler it needs to be dead straight, and not with bends inside. It's ok to a degree with straight smooth pipe, but with the muffler holes, definitely straight. This is pretty much what I believe to be creating my issue, especially with the E85 and more HP. 2 LBS of boost more from this relief of back pressure in my exhaust just goes to show how much it was having an effect. I would have liked to go with a big 4" too Ash, but for what I want out of it, I didn't really want to spend that much more. I would have had to do front pipes too, which isn't cheap at that size.

Yeah my tri-pass radiator was sensational, 5 laps and tip top water temps but then I wasn't using E85 or as much boost, tyres would be off before the cooling system had an argument.

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

-9s were all over by around 7500rpm with the same motor config

Is there much difference with the -9's and gt-ss? On my old car with stock cams and heads, my car kept making more power past 7,500 rpm with gt-ss turbos.

http://i49.tinypic.com/2cgbyv5.jpg

Edited by topher_

Whats opinions on HKS split dumps? Is it worth the hassle to change to a set of Midori ones. Also thinking about changing the mines front pipe to something a little bigger as well..

I'm aiming to get into the high 300kw area.

Whats opinions on HKS split dumps? Is it worth the hassle to change to a set of Midori ones. Also thinking about changing the mines front pipe to something a little bigger as well..

I'm aiming to get into the high 300kw area.

Have made over 400 with them...but it ain't the most efficient way of doing it.

Well that's good enough for me. There obviously not the best out there but will do the job. Think I'll save changing em out for when the motor is out.

Money better put towards some twin 3" into 3.5" front pipes.

Well that's good enough for me. There obviously not the best out there but will do the job. Think I'll save changing em out for when the motor is out.

Money better put towards some twin 3" into 3.5" front pipes.

Looking for these too but most tend to be 2.75 into 3 or 3 into 3.

Does anyone know a supplier in melbourne

What size are the racepace front pipes?

And do they have equal length pipes before they merge?

Twin 3 inch merging into a 3.5 or 4 inch. Take your pick. (Why you wouldn't go 4 inch is beyond me).

Forget the japanese junk.... well worth the cash.

You always get used to the power.

Plus you'd still need to do transfer case, front/rear diff, suspension. They make the biggest difference dollar vs gains IMO over power/rebuild - just there is 10k on its own. So add in another 15k for the motor and everything and you've done 25k there. Hence why my GTR was such a bargin really @ 30k, and sold easily :)

can you tell me more about the transfer case mod please???

search drivetrain section - all in there.

Is there much difference with the -9's and gt-ss? On my old car with stock cams and heads, my car kept making more power past 7,500 rpm with gt-ss turbos.

http://i49.tinypic.com/2cgbyv5.jpg

They are identical.

If the graph you linked didn't end @ 7400rpm, you'd see torque fall off even harder than it already has. Boost would be the same as well.

Yeah sure more RPM it might make a little bit more power (10kw), but the turbos are pretty much off the efficiency, falling harder and harder off from boost/torque the more RPM you ask - so you gain nothing by taking it past there. Better off to change gear and fall back into the 6000rpm area.

My comment about it being "all over" by 7500rpm is that both boost and torque have well and truly fallen off by then. Where -5s will keep pressing till 8500rpm on a 2.6 no problem which is a solid 1000rpm more and they aren't falling over.

I've been doing a bit of research here and there, and my exhaust I think is just at maximum capacity for my setup, it seems on 98 and under 400kw, bloody awesome piece of kit. I would have liked to go the RP 4" version.

After researching some more on the -10's topic too, I think I'll stick with the -5's and be happy with what I've got.

A new set of semi's, a brake bleed, and I'll be all good to try the QR clubsprint record again. It's just QR is so setup for big HP over handling, hence the reason I was thinking -10's. Although I'm only 6/10's off the club-sprint record holder, and he is running an R32 with 50kw more. That was my first track day out there with only 15 laps, so maybe a bit more drive time might help.....lol.

-5's seem as they are pretty much one of the best turbo choices for track duties, hands down. The -7's seem good to for a bit less power and super response.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It can't be some stupidly proprietary video signal coming out of it that only Nissan's can understand. Surely you can just find some generic camera to stuff in there and use hot melt glue/blu-tac/gaffer tape to hold it in place if need be?
    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
×
×
  • Create New...