Jump to content
SAU Community

Big Vibrations Issues!

abr33
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
abr33 Proficient

abr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Have you tried turning the shaft 180 degrees yet to compare if vib's better or worse

Tried everything really, even phasing 90 degrees, im running stock shaft till the manager of spicer comes out and looks at it

urtwhistle Proficient

urtwhistle

Posted
Posted

funny you say spicer. I rebuilt my stock 2 peice with spicer uni's and the first pop of the clutch it shattered 2 of them. So I went a big single shaft which give the car a slight vibration about 110-120kph. I have come to the conclusion that it must be something to do with the harmonic's of the shaft at that rpm.

nobby Collaborator

nobby

Posted
Posted

Don't take any of this the wrong way.

Nissan put a 2 pce drive shaft in for a reason.

I also admit, standard seems heavy at that.

But why make a super car and handy-cap it with this sort of construction?.

Id like to know all about the spicer and their uni's, more info please.

I'd suggest rear sub frame, diff , and gearbox miss-align enough to cause or at least contribute to the vib problem.

Or I'm simply wrong.

Recon someone who builds race cars professionally should knows what the "usual causes" of the vib given what your trying to do.

you may simply have to pay for a fix.

Good luck I'm keeping a close eye on this may have to do mine sooner or later.

Cheers

urtwhistle Proficient

urtwhistle

Posted
Posted

hhahaha yeah you should have seen the guy who built the shafts face when I walked in on Monday after picking it up on the friday. We then freighted the shafts from Perth to Brissy I think it was as Spicer wanted to see it before they would warrant any of it. They claimed that I must have had the wheels locked up or something. Then claimed it was impossible to smash both the front uni and the rear at the same time. But yeah they refused to warranty it so I gave them the finger and the guy that made the shaft met me half way on making a single. Drive shaft balancing service's in Malaga. They are a good bunch of guys too.

The funny part was the yoke's didn't break even after machining them to suit the spicer uni's but the centre's crumbled. PS it was 3500rpm launch in a 350hp R34 gtt. on crappy 235's

  • 4 weeks later...
abr33 Proficient

abr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So the problems almost gone now, turns out the spigot on diff was .3mm undersize, and bolt holes being super neat, when loosened off I wiggle plates and no play... The manager/engineer came and inspected the setup, and detected this, took it back, made new spigot perfect size, re-balance again and sent back and I fitted it, and now it runs great to 110 km/h but 110-120 it has the same vibration however nowhere near as severe as before, its just annoying now. Everything setup and balanced perfect we are at a loss as to what the issue now is. The only thing suggested was the unis, as they are a solid centre type, have fibre thrust washers on ends to stop play, and inturn offer resistance, the possibility is they are just tight enough to begin vibrations at that speed. IF this is the case, it'll pan out in the next few hundred kms.. I hope so. Input?

  • 2 months later...
abr33 Proficient

abr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Definately shaft. Stock has zero vibes. Havent done anything for a couple of months but its coming back this week hopefully with results. We have gone to a slightly lighter tube, kept the 1350 uni at box, and middle and diff are 1310's i think. Will post results. I hope lol.

  • 2 weeks later...
abr33 Proficient

abr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Finally sorted! Running slightly lighter 3 inch tube and 21r uni's, we have a good result so far. So many combos and different things and this is where we got to. Still rated well over 600hp and not alot heavier than stock, cant say enough good things about the level of service from Hardy Spicer in Newcastle and the persistance to get this right.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • r32-25t
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By r32-25t · Posted

      There are adaptors that allow you to delete the booster and use an s15 clutch master cylinder.    if you want to keep the booster they are still available brand new 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well
    • weikleenget
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By weikleenget · Posted

      We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?
    • Duncan
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah 4wd (boosted) has a recess in the firewall for the booster, and 2wd is flat - the example in the link shows the flat surface. When you deleted the booster, did you just attach the factory slave cylinder directly to the recess in the firewall with no adaption?  
    • GTSBoy
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
×
×
  • Create New...