Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all im about to put my combo into the car going to run pump fuel atm as im 3 hours from the nearest e85 servo!

Any how my combo is

forged rb26

alot of port work done

276 custom grind cams

VCT

6 boost manifold divided

6766 cea divided .84 rear

45 mm turbosmart gate

Just can not find any info on these turbos on a rb26 like dyno sheets or hp figures id like to know what im getting my self into and where i should be on pump fuel hp wise at the wheels in my gtr.

Thx for any help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409170-6766-cea-billet-turbo-on-a-rb26/
Share on other sites

Could be the 1.15 rear end, its a big exhaust wheel as it is so the need for the largest possible housing is debatable.

To OP: are you sure you have enough gate for that setup? I would have wanted 50mm at minimum for a single gate on that setup, I wouldnt be scared of a 60mm either.

Thats a 930hp turbo. These things are known to punch above their weight, are you sure E85 would only see 650?

Correct me if I am wrong but PJ has gone 850whp from a similarly sized unit from a 2L on E85?

im not suggesting 730 on pump is whats to be expected, but A: were talking US pump 93, not skip land pump 98 and B: were talking a US result. US results are always higher than ours, no matter what.

700+whp on US-93oct sounds like heaps alright, dyno discrepancy aside (assuming 10% lower reading that is still not far short of 500kw) - would love to know more about the car.

On the flipside, 650whp on 26-28psi - that doesn't sound that huge if talking about a fairly serious setup (using a PT6766 to its potential is pretty serious by my reckoning). What kind of setups are you talking there? A mate of mine's stock stroke RB26 makes 865hp @ 4hubs on 22psi running on E85, which by my reckoning should equate to at least 770awhp/575kw on a Dyno Dynamics dyno.

Thats a 930hp turbo. These things are known to punch above their weight, are you sure E85 would only see 650?

Correct me if I am wrong but PJ has gone 850whp from a similarly sized unit from a 2L on E85?

im not suggesting 730 on pump is whats to be expected, but A: were talking US pump 93, not skip land pump 98 and B: were talking a US result. US results are always higher than ours, no matter what.

I may be thinking about a different turbo. I'll ask the customer. Still fairly new to identifying PT's

as for the US results, well it's about 540rwkw.... so given US results are always very happy (or ours are conservative??) if it's say 10% out, that's high 400's... have no idea if that's realistic for that setup for not.

randomly found this on a Dutch tuning companies site - PT6765 - 611kw. - not sure if fly wheel conversion or at the wheels.

EDIT: never mind, looking at the other results, it looks like they've done some calc to guestimate the engine power... not very useful then...

R34 GTR, (Eddie, DU)

Sky-Eng gebouwde motor

CP zuigers

Crower drijfstangen

HKS nokkenassen en klepveren

N1 oliepomp

Precision billet PT6765 turbo

Sky-Eng carterpan

HKS twin plate clutch

Bosch 1600cc injectoren

Sky-Eng swirl pot met 2 Bosch 044 benzinepompen

Link G4 ECU

820hp @ 2.1 bar op E85 benzine

US spec 93 is better than our 98 for sure. I would put our 98 closer to US 91, but a little better. There is no direct comparison.

As has been said, 700+ is a big number for pump fuel. Yet im not surprised. Its likely to be calculated engine HP, plus the level of discrepancy that we are used to seeing.

When I saw the result I gauged 450rwkw, which is a walk in the park for a 6766, the only questionable thing is US pump 93 and if its good enough to support the number.

In NZ we have Dyno Dynamics, Dynojets, and mainly Dynapacks - I have considered doing comparisons between those 3 though the results I have seen from the bunch seem to have Dynojets reading marginally lower than the Dynapacks and basically add 8%-12% to Dyno Dynamics results to get Dynojet/Dynapack equivalent results.

We are putting car on my Dyno Jet and on a Mustang in the same day soon just for fun to end the what ifs and I thinks around here will be fun just to see the difference.

I post up the findings.

Edited by Weapon X

Mustang dynos don't seem to read quite as low as Dyno Dynamics dynos with "typical" setups, assuming you don't count the way the Brits tend to set up DD dynos (to estimate Flywheel).

Will be interesting to see the DD vs Mustang comparison

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...