Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't think anyone credible has ever said it CANNOT hold over 300.

I do believe that it has been said it can be used for up to 300kw applications. I think thats a reasonable comment.

Reasons:

Above 300kw there would definitely be markable gains from a quality manifold.

E85 is a game changer because it makes for a cooler burn (alcohol) and therefore counteracts the restriction of the stock manifold to a certain degree.

So I guess the BS is that the stock mani cannot hold much more than 300rwkw.. :whistling:

now, now..hold your horses...i first thought this aswell, and yes one of my mates has made 350rwkw on a 3076 56T .63 at 17psi on e85 atm, still has some left in it

stock mani with gate of exhaust housing

I first thought it was a octane issue on 98 that capped things at 300 with that frame of turbo..stao said no its the manifold..well

we are both right..it is octane limited to around that mark on 98 with a a stocky, but change to aftermarket and you can add some timing due to no restriction and pick up a very good handful of kilowatts

E85 is a game changer..it has so much octane that you reach mbt with the timing curve with those turbos whether you use use

a restrictive manifold or not and still have plenty in reserve..it woudn't suprise me if there wasn't much difference is peak power between

a aftermarket or stock in that scenario..i think my mate will try a nz hybrid mani soon so will be interesting to see the difference or how

the curve is changed

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

glad i have a stock manifold now, got pulled over by cops this morning and they had a good look under the bonnet, was shitting myself... an aftermarket manifold would not of helped.

Heads up, for people thinking about buying the new Hybrid low mount manifold (no wg).

This is a good quality manifold for the price but it won't fit your rb25 motor without modification - studs, washers, nuts and bov/intake piping.

I bought it because it's based on the HPI design which is bolt on, but that's not the case.

I've contacted Kam a few times now to address issues, but unfortunately there's reluctance to change the design, so I may be out of pocket.

For now I'm back to stock manifold.

Cheers.

Heads up, for people thinking about buying the new Hybrid low mount manifold (no wg).

This is a good quality manifold for the price but it won't fit your rb25 motor without modification - studs, washers, nuts and bov/intake piping.

I bought it because it's based on the HPI design which is bolt on, but that's not the case.

I've contacted Kam a few times now to address issues, but unfortunately there's reluctance to change the design, so I may be out of pocket.

For now I'm back to stock manifold.

Cheers.

I am not sure if you know how hard it is to make a manifold out of mild steel, it is not as easy as making it out of Stainless steel where you can bend easily,

There are so many tight bends to look at and getting everything to line up with the std position of the turbo,

Having to trim a couple of studs and using 2 washers slightly smaller in diameter is not a mission, this is a custom made manifold it took me 2 weeks to do it for you and to make it look and perform well, having to modify the couple of things which is only trimming the 2 studs and modifying the bov return line is nothing major, as any one would know when dealing with any after market product you will have to make some changes and these are minor,

I have emailed you back every time you sent me an email and even offered to sort something out, if i don't reply in 5 minutes i am not ignoring you i do have things to do as well,

kind of frustrating having to deal with this kind of stuff specially when trying to do something good for some one you still end up getting biten and loose your time making something.

Yes it's frustrating but not many people will want to change so many things to get it to work.

I'm not biting you, what you thinks needs to be done, workshops will charge a $%^load to fix, studs and piping.

If it takes more time to get manifold to bolt on and you feel confident this is worthwhile, as I've said privately I'd be happy to purchase another manifold.

I'll be taking up your offer for the refund, minus postage.

Cheers.

  • 1 month later...
  • 11 months later...

Hi Just thought i'd give these guys at Hybrid performance the benefit of the doubt with regards to their manifold and guess what

its a piece of S#!t that is built poorly...i even asked if i can get a refund and KAM said no refunds look on the website lol

His stuff is cheap and the quality is crap

Save yourself the trouble and buy well known and trusted brands

Hybrid Performance is a scammer and should be banned from SAU for trying to sell its products

I actually should have spent my money on a on a stainless steel one

Hmm, my Hybrid top mount bolted up with no issues. I did modify the wastegate port slightly but that was due to me obessive complusive disorder with my car, i wanted it a few CM further away from aircon lines

mines seen about 5 track days with 320 rwkw with no issuse except a bit of loose dag in the manifold which i removed with dremel. wil see how the manifold handles 350 with e85

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are adaptors that allow you to delete the booster and use an s15 clutch master cylinder.    if you want to keep the booster they are still available brand new 
    • I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well
    • We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?
    • Yeah 4wd (boosted) has a recess in the firewall for the booster, and 2wd is flat - the example in the link shows the flat surface. When you deleted the booster, did you just attach the factory slave cylinder directly to the recess in the firewall with no adaption?  
    • Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
×
×
  • Create New...