Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Been a while since I've been on here, so howdy to all the new and old faces.

I've got a bit of an issue. After 3 and a half years of owning my V, I got pulled over on the freeway and got slapped with a yellow sticker for having HID lights without the necessary 'protection'. I bought the car from Sydney with these on and upon bringing it to WA it went over the pits in O'Conner and passed registration without any issue. They are 4000k HIDs so brightness wasn't the problem, rather, they are not "self-levelling" nor do they have "washers" and therefore are deemed 'illegal' by virtue of ADR 13 and a few bits of legislation. I won't rant on about the cop's conduct, but let's just say he wasn't a pleasant chap.

I wasn't speeding nor have I had any major prior run-ins with the police. He refused to believe it was factory fitted nor did he believe that it passed pits so I've lodged an official complaint with the department of transport and an 'investigation' is being undertaken by them as I refuse to pay the inspection fee for something which should have been picked up over the pits.

Here's my dilemma, I took off the wheel and the splash-guards, got access to the headlight housing to find that the halogens which I bought won't simply "plug n play" into the existing HID housing (duh! :P) I'll be ringing my mechanic on Monday to see what he can do, however, in the meantime does anyone know or has anyone attempted to convert their HIDs back to stock halogens? (I don't imagine there'll be a lot of people). I've read various articles about hacking away at the wiring loom, by-passing the HID ballast etc but it's all Greek to me so I won't venture up that road. Any suggestions guys? Does anyone know of a place/website where I can get OEM wiring and ballasts to put the halogens back in?

Plan on selling the car over the next couple of months so don't want to spend too much $$$.

Many thanks in advance!

Tarun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409352-converting-hid-to-back-to-halogen/
Share on other sites

You don't need ballasts for halogens. The reason why is because HID lights require a really high voltage to initially excite the HID lamp and then maintain a moderately high voltage to allow the HID lamp to continue to operate from that initial jolt.

Both voltages are far too high for a 12V halogen. Therefore, you have no option but to cut the 12V wires going into the HID ballast and connect them to your halogens. Thereby taking the ballast out of action altogether.

I don't know about retrofitting the halogen bulb in the assembly as I haven't yet converted mine back to the factory HID (as it was converted to halogen for ADR compliance, as it's meant to be).

I agree the ADRs are ridiculous to say the least though. Thankfully mine has the auto-levelling system but no washers so if worse comes to worse, I could always stick on a couple of fake washers if it becomes an issue here in NSW.

If you can track down a compliance workshop in your area, they should be able to tell you how to do it, as they should do it on every V35/36 that comes into the country.

Cheers for the feedback guys.

After posting this I managed to dig out an old box sent by the previous owner which contained the halogen headlight cradles to hold the H1 globe in place (which was a start). After a couple of hours, a crimp tool, some spade connectors and electrical tape, I managed to secure and mount the halogens in. Problem solved...for now.

They look like absolute crap compared to the previous HIDs but just need to clear inspection and back in they go :P

Edited by diabolique

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...