Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI all,

Would really appreciate some help with getting my hands on a car trailer or tow tuck in the next couple weeks,

I actually have a hyundai santa fe with toe bar so even if you have a trailer I can borrow for half a day that would be great,

As per topic tags, Cash, Beer and Women your way offcourse :)

Edited by sydking
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409454-car-trailer-tow-truck/
Share on other sites

The hire ones were only $100 for 24hrs and tow really well man! I got one from Active hire and it had a decent winch etc -

YoCkp.jpg

MVox4.jpg

Was pretty happy with the price and service etc :)

Dam thats not bad huh, Cheers. for the heads up.

Im always a bit iffy about using gear form the likes of kennards ect, alot of the stuff ive used has been rubbish,

Ive noticved on google that alot of 711 have these https://www.trailerrentals.com.au/BookingStep2.aspx

but again, Not sure on how good they really are.

If you are hiring a trailer try to check it out in person first. I've hired from a bunch of local places and some are very different to others. Trailer height, ramp style and length in particular make a big difference to how easy it is to get the car on. Also some have much better tie down points than others.

I'm not sure what Santa fe you have, but you may want to check you can actually load the at up that much.

I bought an R33 home on the back of my XR6T the other weekend, and I wouldn't recommend it.

Also, I used uhaul, $146 fully insured no excess.

Tie down points were shit, but towed great. Ramps were a little short for my liking.

I towed my car to JEM behind a hilux, dont think its rated to that but the car was balanced and apart from doing 40 up Mooney Mooney it was fine :P

I towed my car to JEM behind a hilux, dont think its rated to that but the car was balanced and apart from doing 40 up Mooney Mooney it was fine :P

Not rated means not insured.

And if the row vehicle is too light it can be disastrous in the event of needing to stop quickly, or goin around curves and down hill.

Not rated means not insured.

And if the row vehicle is too light it can be disastrous in the event of needing to stop quickly, or goin around curves and down hill.

Nice! oops....

And it worked OK, the only time it got sketchy was down hill on the return trip when i had to brake harder than normal to wipe off some speed, i adapted driving to suit after that :P

i will find out the exact model when i get home. but if i have the righ tone, from specs Tow capacity 2000kg braked, 750kg unbraked. Ball weight 150kg.

are these trailers you boys are using braked ones?

Any trailer That is over 750KG has to be braked by law.

They use an override brake. That is, the trailer actually slides along a shaft that is connected to your tow ball. As the shaft pushes through it moves a lever to pull a cable which yanks the brakes on.

Makes for lots of bangs through the car if you aren't smooth on the brake or stop a little quickly.

The worst problem is that the moment you put your pride and joy on the trailer, there is some asshole that tail gates you the whole way!

Also, you need to reset your mirrors to watch the trailer a little bit more (watch the wheels on white lines)

You will soon have a new appreciation for trickiest on Sydney roads.

PS, avoid Canterbury road... One wheel on each white line the whole way... LOL

Yeah aim the mirrors down a bit it is helpful...... After a while you forget its there to an extent (Either that or it is actually no longer connected.........Thats bad!) :P

I was lucky as its mostly highway, pennant hills road was the only issue but other than that it was fine :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...