Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I have recently bought a 1995 s1 r33 gts-t. The coilpacks have been playing up and I have read the topic about how to temporary fix them.

As I have recently purchased this car my funds are on the low side so I am having to think about second hand coilpacks. I have enquired at a local shop and they want $200 for a set of nissan ones.

So I ask; should I even consider second hand coilpacks? Is there any way to check that these ones aren't ruined aswell(aside from checking for melting marks from arcing)? Should I use good electrical tape around them as a preventative for the cracking from heat(or silicone)?

Sorry about the large text.

Edited by Bergo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409468-second-hand-coilpacks/
Share on other sites

I wouldnt mess with used, my old set im assuming had hairline cracks i couldnt see but i could see(and feel) arcing at night with the rocker cover removed, changed them with a set of spitfires and it was a totally different car.

You're better off doing the cheap fix i think nail polish and tape? and save up for a new aftermarket set if you still need it.

On the dyno they broke down during on the runs, I think it was 3 of them had very visible cracks through them, I suspect they were not indeed geniune, but some pretty good looking fake ones, so be careful of the ebay ones is all. Jez picked me up some barely used splitfires and they are still going strong.

if those second hand ones from the shop for $200 come with some sort of a warranty- at least 6-12 months then id say go for it.

otherwise second hand but not very old splitfires do generally go for the 450-500 mark.

keep away from yellowjackets n other stuff like that that is 'budget brand new'.

if the ones i got were fakes then they are the best fakes out there! def not secondhand either ,the numbers on them match exactly to the factory ones i took off my RB20DET and they run the motor just fine with no issues and certainly not "shattered" nissan 22433 60U01 HANSHIN MCP-300

the chinese are damn good at making fake stuff mate. Looks the bis, but aint.

wether you think they be be fake or not they work just fine, as i said they are EXACTLY like the originals i took out of there

if they are referred to as brand new OEM and at that price- You bet it does.

you think nissan themselves make these coils ?because they didnt come from nissan direct i should pay a "nissan price" ?

have you considered that the ebay seller got them directly from the manufacturer? i know the difference tween cheap china crap and quality and as i have had the coils , both original and these ones in front of me that i might know the difference?

wind 20psi of boost into em n see how they hold up (or 5 yrs of use)...

Nah, all things being equal, they might. N if they do, more power too ya mate, seriously.

But the SAU community has enough experience with all the Z32 afms, Nismo injectors etc etc to know when you are getting the real deal, n when you arent.

Im not going to debate it with you anymore so say what you want from here on.

The only reason i have debated it is so other people out there dont get mislead into thinking they can get genuine stuff at a 'too good to be true price' off ebay.

wind 20psi of boost into em n see how they hold up (or 5 yrs of use)...

Nah, all things being equal, they might. N if they do, more power too ya mate, seriously.

But the SAU community has enough experience with all the Z32 afms, Nismo injectors etc etc to know when you are getting the real deal, n when you arent.

Im not going to debate it with you anymore so say what you want from here on.

The only reason i have debated it is so other people out there dont get mislead into thinking they can get genuine stuff at a 'too good to be true price' off ebay.

yeah thats cool , CBF arguing with you over this, i know i have the real deal with these coil packs- you believe what you want to believe

Argh just wrote a huge post and then it deleted itself. Oh well I will attempt to make the grammar a little better in this one.

First of all, I have been contacted by a SAU member wanting to sell me second hand OEM coilpacks for fairly cheap and as I have recently purchased the car and a few things for it my funds are low. These will have to do until I sasve for some splitfires. Now to a quick question:

When i pulled my coilpacks out there were only 2 screws holding each pack in place even though there are 4 holes. I dont think that it really matters as they arent going anywhere with the 2 but just to check if there should be 4 per coilpack does anyone know?

Im going to be cleaning the AAC valve tomorrow for something to do but while im at it I will pull the coilpacks out again. The reason for this is that last time i forgot to make sure I had duct tape handy. After pulling it all apart I realised the only thing available at the time was some bathroom silicone (clear) so i attempted to cover the cracks with this but the problem has either remained the same or maybe gotten worse (maybe im just getting on boost more often to notice it happening - I did ground the stock boost solenoid after purchasing the car.Maybe driving around with the more freely available boost has made the cracking/arcing from the coilpacks worse)

Thanks,

Damian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...