Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey mate, well done on keeping the 32 for so long. question about the xt7's. they are 17 inch, but what offset front and rear?? also the taper (concave-ness)? the olds have a place down at greenwell point, maybe i could come check it out??

Hey Mick,

My wheel offsets are: Front = 17 x 8 + 32 Rear = 17 x 9 + 44

Not sure how I'd measure the concave, but as you can see in the photo's the rears have much more concave than the fronts. If you want to check out the car just send a PM and we can sort it out from there.

Ryno

  • 3 weeks later...

I decided to "get on the tools" this weekend and fix a problem that I should have remedied years ago...

The Fiberglass front splitter I've fitted is designed for a GTR, so initially it took a bit of tweaking to get it to suit my GTS. Since install it hasn't been completely flat as it touches the front sway bar. Over time this has been rubbing and has started to wear through.

So to fix this I cut out the sections that were rubbing and used a section of PVC pipe as a mold. I then fiberglassed in that new shape, which will wrap around the sway bar. I then popped off the PVC pipe and 'ta daa' a new design that fits much better:

IMG_0358.jpg

IMG_0359.jpg

IMG_0362.jpg

IMG_0369.jpg

  • 2 months later...

After a couple of frustrating days hammering away at the car, the new inlet plenum is now fitted.... Off to the mechanics tomorrow to get the new exhaust manifold fitted and dump pipe made.

MXPerformancePlenum_zpsc0f6ad64.jpg

  • Like 1

I apologise for the blurry photo, but this is how we decided to lock the internal wastegate shut. We did it this way so that if I ever wanted to swap back to the internal wastegate (or sell the turbo) I can just grind the tab off and it'll be back to stock.

TurboWastegate_zps2fc069aa.jpg

The new dump should be bolted on today and hopefully it will hit the dyno tomorrow!

New piping and dump all completed and installed this morning... this is how the cute little GT-RS looks mounted high and proud:

IMG_0451_zpse6c13291.jpg

Unfortunately it is over 40 deg in Nowra today, so we only put it on the dyno to do a quick tune to ensure it is safe to drive. We did only did a couple of power runs on the low boost setting (wastegate pressure of 14 psi only) and this is the power it put down...

IMG_0450_zpse15bee78.jpg

Even though this is only 235rwkw, it is quite remarkable considering that with my old plenum and standard exhaust manifold (on this same dyno) my car only put down 230rwkw... at 18psi!

Also that was on a 20 deg day, not the 40 deg plus we were seeing in the workshop today.

On the AFR side of the equation, because of the temp today we left it a little on the rich side for safety (around 11:1). When we can find a cooler day, I'll get it back on the dyno to give it a full tune and wind the boost back up to 18 psi.

On the response side of things the GT-RS is now every bit as resposive as the stock turbo. I'm getting 5 psi of boost at 2000 rpm and full boost before 3000 rpm.

The only downside for me in fitting the MX Performance plenum, is I am unable to fit my existing carbon strut bar... and as you can probably tell, I'm pretty fond of having as much carbon in the engine bay as possible!

I've now fitted a Nismo Strut bar in its place, and fabricated a spacer to sit underneath (on the drivers side) so hopefully the plenum won't rub.

IMG_0456_zpse7c60a95.jpg

Here's what the engine bay looks like, with everything back it its place...

IMG_0455_zps144e6a90.jpg

nice build mate! looking very good and good to see you are still enjoying the car after all this time.

quick question, how thick is that little spacer that you made to sit under the strut bar. assuming there are no issues with closing the bonnet with the spacer?

also loving the full length cf air guide that you have

  On 24/01/2013 at 1:59 AM, G3TFKD said:

quick question, how thick is that little spacer that you made to sit under the strut bar. assuming there are no issues with closing the bonnet with the spacer?

I cut the spacer out of a piece of nylon chopping board ~ It's around 6mm thick. I have no problems closing the bonnet, though I'm running a carbon bonnet, not the stock one (with the support braces underneath etc).

My car has now been tuned properly and the results are even better than I imagined. When driving the car, it feels like it is supercharged as the turbo response is almost immediate. It makes 2 psi of boost at 1000 rpm!! Here's a power run that wasn't fully wound out, but you get the idea...

IMG_0457_zpseb7e2a11.jpg

And here is a comparison of before and after the inlet and exhaust manifold changes at the same boost level...

IMG_0458_zps6f39d62f.jpg

The problem I have now is that the R32 turbo gearbox has started to make a fair amount of bearing noise, so it is not quite as happy with the new found torque as I am.

A R33 gearbox is definitely now on the cards. :angry:

A brand new ECR33 gearbox has been ordered from Just Jap... Hopefully after that's installed it will be the last major expense in making my R32 the perfect daily drive. In any case, I'm out of ideas on how to make the car any better!

Purely a 'bling' item, but I purchased an Alloy Footrest (or deadpedal) that was apparently an OEM option for the R32/R33 Skyline. When I received it I noticed the lower grip pad was missing.

So I decided to replace all the grip pads with carbon. The left picture is how I received it and the right is after the refurb.

Footrest_zps3d926137.jpg

And here's what is looks like installed in the car:

Pedals_zps9d96f1d7.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Got my new box of goodies (from Justjap) installed today... Brand new ECR33 Gearbox, Nismo clutch slave and Redline oil...

NewGoodies_zps7e04cc90.jpg

Here's a pic of it installed... Weird to see a skyline gearbox without oil stains and road grime:

NewGearbox_zps759a1d2a.jpg

The gearbox crossmember is only attached via two bolts at the moment, but I've got a new custom crossmember/mount being made by Vibratechnics in the UK.

Mountattachment_zps59c64e4b.jpg

The car is now very nice to drive with the brand new box, though I'll have to swap out the stock shifter for a short shift as the long throw is killing me!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
  • Create New...